Shifting Help?!

TFK KaNx

TFK KaNx

Active Member
29
8
Lancaster PA
Vehicle Model
Civic Si
Body Style
Coupe
Hey guys, I have been wondering, if I push the clutch pass the engagement point but not all the way to the ground is that ok? Because I have heard by many as long as it is pass the engagement point you are fine no need to push the clutch to the floor... just need some opinions... oh && recently since I have gotten my Si people have been pulling out in front of me and I hit the brake right away to avoid an accident && I happen to stall of course, can anyone help me out. How much harm am I doing?? :/
 
You do not need to push the clutch to the floor... just enough to get it past the engagement point. Stalling isn't going to really harm the car. Look at it this way, it's better to stall on occasion than to rear end someone. Let them hear your horn if people are driving like idiots.... in no time you'll be driving stick like a pro.
 
I got lazy and started just pushing past the engagement point, then i killed a clutch, i always push to the floor now and havnt killed a clutch since.

Dont know for sure if not going to the floor is what killed the clutch, was on my old car, always go completely to the floor for every shift even while driving hard, current clutch has over 100,000 miles on it
 
As for clutching while panic stopping, eventually that becomes second nature, then you start stomping on the floor in automatic cars when you start them and panic stop (just make sure you dont hit the brake)
 
I always went just past engagement with my '03 LX and had 125,000 miles on it with no problems before I traded it in. I was also a bad car owner and did the first tranny fluid change at 100,000 miles. :hiding: However, I did not feel any difference after changing it either.

It should also be noted that I learned how to drive stick on this car.
 
like ethlar said it'll become second nature... if you go to start someone's car that isn't stick, your left leg will be pushing into the floorboards looking for the pedal. I still do that
 
then it gets really fun when you try to put the cup holder into second going around a turn in a automatic car
 
Sometimes I get a "notchy" feel when I shift?? I don't get it :/ btw thanks fellas :)
 
So all of that is normal for the Si?? Okie! Thanks bro. Sorry but as you know I am new and well kinda petrified to ruin my car.
 
I use to drive OTR Semi's ........... I'd like to give you some info on what's happening when shifting..........

Notchy is usually from a slower shift &/or not enough clutch. You're feeling the synchronizers have slowed down.

The goal is to use as much clutch as it takes to shift smoothly, that is to be close to engagment but not the floor......

The more "time" spent with the clutch engaged, the more time the drive trains rpm's have to get out of timing with each other(wheel vs's motor / trans).... But you don't need to speed shift either......smooth and not slow ..........

Practice(clutch) by setting in your driveway with the motor off pushing the clutch till you feel pressure then add a little more do this to get a feel. Then do the same with the motor running and do some shifts. I know you are past the practice in the DW by now, but you're trying a different distance on the clutch.

Loose crip on the shifter will help in feeling the gates, instead of stuffing it off a gate wall (a gate is the same as those shift knobs that show the shift patterns .... The difference is the drawn pattern shows a single line for each gear ...in real time you're putting each shift in between two walls).
 
Monk said:
I use to drive OTR Semi's ........... I'd like to give you some info on what's happening when shifting..........

Notchy is usually from a slower shift &/or not enough clutch. You're feeling the synchronizers have slowed down.

The goal is to use as much clutch as it takes to shift smoothly, that is to be close to engagment but not the floor......

The more "time" spent with the clutch engaged, the more time the drive trains rpm's have to get out of timing with each other(wheel vs's motor / trans).... But you don't need to speed shift either......smooth and not slow ..........

Practice(clutch) by setting in your driveway with the motor off pushing the clutch till you feel pressure then add a little more do this to get a feel. Then do the same with the motor running and do some shifts. I know you are past the practice in the DW by now, but you're trying a different distance on the clutch.

Loose crip on the shifter will help in feeling the gates, instead of stuffing it off a gate wall (a gate is the same as those shift knobs that show the shift patterns .... The difference is the drawn pattern shows a single line for each gear ...in real time you're putting each shift in between two walls).
Click to expand...
Wow! This is really informational bro! Thank you oh so much!!
 
I have to say I noticed this as well. I was more careful the first days and my rhythm was not perfect, my solution was to push the clutch all the way, with time my rhythm is good and I no longer do it since my timing and clutching got adjusted to the car.

For some reason the Si is extremely smooth when treating it right but improper rhythm, slower changes or not enough clutch you can get small nothciness for 2nd and 3rd mostly. When the engine is cold I felt this was more present.

As Monk said a a very liquid change is the real answer to it, just a matter of time of adjusting to it. Each car has it's flow and rhythms the Sis seems to a bit more different than others which is actually quite fun :)
 
Also , when Im in reverse && backing up, it feels as if I don't add enough gas its really rough and makes a lugging noise. Is this be cause I need more pedal to the metal so to speak?? :)
 
TFK KaNx said:
Also , when I'm in reverse && backing up, it feels as if I don't add enough gas its really rough and makes a lugging noise. Is this be cause I need more pedal to the metal so to speak?? :)
Click to expand...
Sounds more like you're between idle and need more gas.

Find a empty parking lot and work on moving from a stop to trolling, there are two ways, but the best is to learn how to get it moving without "ANY" pressure on the gas, let the clutch out very slow until it starts rolling then slowly add gas..........both are useful.

Next work on backing up the same way you usually do to go forward, by using the clutch/gas "Smoothly"(again), but give it some PTTM(at least give it some umph) type pressure.

The transition is probably where you get most of the stumbling (from where the clutch is almost out and the gas is making it jump....... that's where it needs more gas pressure).
 
Monk said:
Sounds more like you're between idle and need more gas.

Find a empty parking lot and work on moving from a stop to trolling, there are two ways, but the best is to learn how to get it moving without "ANY" pressure on the gas, let the clutch out very slow until it starts rolling then slowly add gas..........both are useful.

Next work on backing up the same way you usually do to go forward, by using the clutch/gas "Smoothly"(again), but give it some PTTM(at least give it some umph) type pressure.

The transition is probably where you get most of the stumbling (from where the clutch is almost out and the gas is making it jump....... that's where it needs more gas pressure).
Click to expand...
Sounds like a plan bro!! Thanks for your wonderful && thought of insight again bro. Monk you are the man :)
 
Def work on getting it moving with just releasing the clutch. I never use the gas when reversing, clutch only, the Si isn't lazy. Just work on the balance like Monk said.
 
I do just that Frediii but then it lugs and doesn't wanna reverse easy... it acts like a stubborn child lol
 
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