Suspension Help for a daily??

Dennis Rockholt

Dennis Rockholt

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Location
Franklin, TN
Vehicle Model
370Z Fairlady aka "Nismo"
Body Style
Coupe
Hey guys,

I am finally getting ready to do my suspension on my civic, as of now its completely stock suspension wise. I am wanting to get -

Ksport Coils, megan camber kit, progress rear sway bar, and ingalls front camber bolts. Just wanted to get any opinions on whether this should be a good setup, or should I maybe go a different direction?

Thanks guys :spinning:
 
Sounds like you are getting all the right parts. Which Ksports are you looking at? I know they make a few different ones.

The progress rear sway will be a huge improvement for you. You will be fine with the stock endlinks but be sure to use the reinforcement brackets on the lower control arm. There are some add-ons you can pick up for this piece later. (Moog endlinks, moog bushings, energy bushings)

I am not a fan of the design of the megan camber arms. They look to be stamped steel welded together where most other camber arms are a solid billet piece. I know they usually are a more budget friendly option but I see them listed for $250-ish. I know the Godspeed arms can be had for significantly less money and have, I think, a better billet design. Also being that close in price you could pick up the Skunk2 arms which I think are a very nicely designed arm. Some of the bushing issues have already been addressed and can be remedied quickly. (I do have the skunk arms myself so im kind of partial)


Ok so from Procivic the megan arms are $225, the skunk2 are $300, and the DME are $250. If you are looking to save a little I would probably point you at the DME arms.


I just see welds failing, rusting, or cracking at the ends where the forces are or all along the seam. That "pinch" design on the end with all the adjustments doesn't look as solid to me as the other arms. Also I see water getting into those holes and eating the arm from the inside out. For $25 i'd maybe consider the DME or another similar arm. (godspeed etc...)

Megans: 2 stamped steel sides welded together. Questionable steel quality and questionable welds I think.
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The DME is another Skunk2 clone.

Both are solid billet aluminum arms with steel inserts for adjustments. Very similar.
18390_2178___Honda%20civic%2006%20rear%20camber%20kit.jpg



And the Skunk2 arm:

g-447-1e7e6d89755112e7601bfea620b0ae8ac18e9833.jpg
 
I typed out Megan and meant Skunk 2 :mad: but great point on the solid billet point as opposed to the welded ones. I want to get the gold ones! and so the sway bar will be good, but just be sure to use the reinforcement brackets?

And I am looking at the Kontrol Pro coils, theyre about 980$ or so. (I had them on my boosted DC teg and loved them)
 
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Yes, the progress bar will come with everything you need. And more parts you won't. They send everything to fit Si or non-si. You'll know the brackets when you see them. Just plain little angled steel plates with some holes in them. There will be a spot on the lower control arm to bolt it to and the second hole is where the endlink attaches. It makes more sense once you see them. They are kind of a pain to get them rotated correctly to fit but just fool with them a little. Hahaha.


Ah, the control pros have the camber plate at the top. You shouldn't need the ingalls camber bolts with those coils. Save you some $$ there.

These ones correct? Stole the pics from Ksports website.

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Yep those are the ones! I didnt know they came with the camber plates though. That's awesome. Now I just gotta wait a week or so and I will have it all ordered. Also already talked with @VitViper about the full race downpipe, PRL intake, and his flashpro deal. Should be pretty sick when its all done! :cucumber: cant really think of much else to get other than maybe the updated headligth housings, and red illumanting lights for the interior.
 
one last question @Nix .....What about wheel spacing for my stock wheels? Any reccomendations so they can be at least close to flush?
 
Are you considering new wheels anytime in the near future? It is always better to buy a wheel in the size and offset that you want than to try and run spacers. If you're going to stick with the stock wheels for a while you can certainly space them out a bit.

There are two ways to go about it. Some spacers are just the spacer itself and some have the studs already pressed in and they bolt to your current studs. Generally running just the spacer requires extended studs and swapping them can be a pretty involved job occasionally requiring new wheel bearings. I usually recommend looking for a spacer that already has studs on it. I think garageline and the ichiba version 2 spacers are setup like that. There are probably others as well but I know of those two off the top of my head.

Now the only issue that you might run into is that if you are not running a thick enough spacer the stock studs will possibly stick up past the spacer. They could contact the back of the wheel preventing you from mounting it properly. There are a couple people on here who have run spacers in the 15 & 20mm sizes I believe without issue. I think that a 15mm will cover the stock studs but Im not 100% on that.
 
Ill try and find those threads for you when I get home. Tapatalk and poor connection at work.
 
Awesome yeah I'm looking at 15 or 20mm but wheels will most likely be one of the last mods for me. I actually like my stock wheels with the black plastidip on them
 
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