Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
I really like these wheels. 17x8 or 17x9? also what is the offset mostly used +35 or +45 and tire size? Could I use my factory tires?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Enkei RPF1?
- Thread starter Michael Perez
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CivicCanuck
Well-Known Member
I guess that depends on your desires. If you are simply looking to replace a stock 17" wheel with these, then I would go with the 17x7 +45 mm ( stock width and offset ). If you desire the stretched tire look, you would use a wider wheel, but in turn reduce your contact patch and compromise handling and tire life among other issues.
The RPF1 in 17x7 is almost 9 pounds lighter than a stock wheel, this alone will make the suspension work better. If you stick to the 7 inch wide wheel, I would also use the stock tires you have.
The RPF1 in 17x7 is almost 9 pounds lighter than a stock wheel, this alone will make the suspension work better. If you stick to the 7 inch wide wheel, I would also use the stock tires you have.
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- #3
Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
Sounds good man. But what width and offset is needed to not have the wheels look so tucked? In 17s
CivicCanuck
Well-Known Member
The only offset offered in the 17x7 is +45, if you move to the 17 x 7.5 the offset available is +48 mm, which means that the inside edge of the tire will be moved inwards by 9 mm, and the tire will stick out 3 more mm... a difference that you couldn't see from the outside. ( fender edge to tire )
CivicCanuck
Well-Known Member
You might want to read this article before choosing to follow the hellaflush trend...
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_arti...e-unforgivable-sin-overlowering-your-car.aspx
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_arti...e-unforgivable-sin-overlowering-your-car.aspx
Read this one as well : Page 4 especially
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_arti...ur-caster-king-pin-inclination-and-scrub.aspx
If you want to maintain the performance it came with, stick with close to the stock width and offset wheel.
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_arti...e-unforgivable-sin-overlowering-your-car.aspx
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_arti...e-unforgivable-sin-overlowering-your-car.aspx
Read this one as well : Page 4 especially
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_arti...ur-caster-king-pin-inclination-and-scrub.aspx
If you want to maintain the performance it came with, stick with close to the stock width and offset wheel.
CivicCanuck
Well-Known Member
The maximum rim width specified for the 215/45/17 ( Michelin Super Sport ) is 8 inches. If you can fit a 17x 7.5 inch wheel it may be a bit better to run that instead of the 17 x 7.
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- #7
Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
Would you recommend 17x8 +35 with stock tires. Minor stretch? Any clearance issues?
CivicCanuck
Well-Known Member
No, this would increase the scrub radius, putting the tire a whopping 23 mm outward from it's current position. As a compromise, how about the 17 x 7.5" with longer wheel studs and a slight spacer, say 8 mm thick? You may have to have a machine shop fabricate spacers, but they won't be cheap.
This would put the 17 x 7.5 wheel 11 mm outwards from it's current position, but the heavier wheel, studs and spacers don't buy you as much performance as the 7 inch wide wheel ( in terms of geometry and handling )
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- #9
Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
That make sense. Then how are guys running 17x9 +22. Are the severely compromising performance? Or is it hurting the car because or increased scrub radius
CivicCanuck
Well-Known Member
The same reason people buy 44" Swamper boggers for their 4x4's... it's all about the look. Never mind that the tires themselves weigh in at 140 pounds each without a rim. Stock gears don't cut it anymore, you have to go to way deep gears, fuel mileage and braking performance take a huge dive.... and if you toss enough power at them, they have enough leverage to break most axles....
So yeah, I would have to say that a 17x9 + 22 is compromised. You would have an extra 23 mm longer lever acting on the ball joints, tie-rods etc. Scrub radius would be increased beyond what is recommended. In the article, less than 2 inches scrub radius is recommended on FWD and AWD cars. Adding 23 mm ( almost 1 inch ) to what the factory spec is.... well counter-intuitive.
Honda kept the same +45mm offset for the 18" HFP wheel, which is also 7 inches wide.
Here's a handy calculator for offset: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
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FreeSamples
Well-Known Member
- 347
- 143
I'm really digging the gold rpf1's. I wanna grab a set. I don't really get the measurements of the wheels so this helped quite a bit. Thanks Michael!
- Thread starter
- #12
Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
No problem man. Although I'm still confused Because I want an almost flush look once I go low and I think 17x8 +35 isn't super crazy. But I don't want anything catastrophic to happen to my suspension each. I need to find the perfect compromise..
Nix
Jötunn Moderator
The RPF-1 is a great wheel but the look of the wheel is significantly different in the 9" wide size. Most pics of this wheel that "look good" are the x9. It changed the spokes to the concave instead of convex appearance. I don't think this particular wheel looks good if you aren't going to go for the 17x9.
As far as fitment... the +35 is pretty safe depending on how low you go and how wide of a tire you run.
Stretched tires is a whole 'nother can of worms.
This is how the wheel looks in any width up to 8.5" Also this particular wheel looks smaller in a given size due to the spokes not extending all the way out. The "lip" causes a shortened appearance.
17x7.5
Here is a 9thgen with: rpf1 in 17x9 +35 wrapped in 215/40/17 continental conti contact
As far as fitment... the +35 is pretty safe depending on how low you go and how wide of a tire you run.
Stretched tires is a whole 'nother can of worms.
This is how the wheel looks in any width up to 8.5" Also this particular wheel looks smaller in a given size due to the spokes not extending all the way out. The "lip" causes a shortened appearance.
17x7.5
Here is a 9thgen with: rpf1 in 17x9 +35 wrapped in 215/40/17 continental conti contact
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Nix
Jötunn Moderator
If you want a semi flush wheel without having to do fender work with no rubbing and are going to run a mild drop....
I would recommend something like an 18x8 +35 or +38 offset with a 225/40 tire. I think that will give you a nice combo of looks and performance without sacrificing safety for a stretched tire.
17's are fine too. the +35 over a +45 won't kill your car. Tire size and sidewall height make more difference for gearing and such.
I run a 17x7.5 so I could run a wider tire for summer. 225's.... loads of screechy fun.
I would recommend something like an 18x8 +35 or +38 offset with a 225/40 tire. I think that will give you a nice combo of looks and performance without sacrificing safety for a stretched tire.
17's are fine too. the +35 over a +45 won't kill your car. Tire size and sidewall height make more difference for gearing and such.
I run a 17x7.5 so I could run a wider tire for summer. 225's.... loads of screechy fun.
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- Thread starter
- #15
Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
Damn lol there's soo many options! I want to be able to use my factory tires that way I just pop the tires on and move the sensors over what kind of stretches will x8 and x9 give me with a 215/45
CivicCanuck
Well-Known Member
8 inch is the maximum recommended by the tire maker for a 215, and even at that the tire life will be reduced. 9 inch I would not recommend. However, it's your car, you can do as you wish.
Alienprime had his chart here: http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/stretch-tire-fittings.6486/#post-127393
Alienprime had his chart here: http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/stretch-tire-fittings.6486/#post-127393
- Thread starter
- #17
Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
I think I'm settled on 17x8 +35. But I'm confused about what's up with the x9 what is exactly the different?
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- #18
Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
How low could I go and what kinda suspension set up would I need for a x8 or x9 on a 215/45
Nix
Jötunn Moderator
Look at the pics above. The spokes on the 8" are convex, at 9" the wheel looks concave and has a lip. It totally changes the look of the wheel.
Low depends on you and how much work you're willing to do. Quite honestly I don't like the look of the RPF-1 in anything but x9.
How low do you wanna go? Coilovers will allow you to go the lowest and are adjustable. Cheap coilovers are just that though, cheap. Ride quality will suffer. Good coilovers are $$. You could always go strut/spring combo but then you would have whatever drop you have chosen. Lowering past 1.5" will need camber kit F & R to get things back in spec.
(This is personal opinion here, do what you want.)
I don't like the idea of running extremely stretched tires. If you are sticking with the stock tires, get a wheel in 7.5" wide. I run 225/45 tires on my 7.5" and could go to an 8." I would not run a 215 on an 8" or 8.5" or a 9" but some people do. Understand that running a stretched tire will compromise performance, tire life, ride quality, I think it quite unsafe, and you can get a blowout much much easier from hitting potholes.
Also the offset of the wheel will play a major role in low/flush/rubbing/need fender work. That said...
1) What is your budget for wheels and suspension?
2) What wheel are you probably going to go with? The RPF1?
3) How much drop are you looking for?
4) How flush are you trying to get your wheels?
5) What are you looking to get out of your wheel/tire combo?
If you are going to get the RPF1 for looks, I'd say get the 17x9 +35. Run the stock tires if you must. Other people have done it. You may not like it.
Strictly performance? 17x8 and get a 235/40 Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1 tire.
Low depends on you and how much work you're willing to do. Quite honestly I don't like the look of the RPF-1 in anything but x9.
How low do you wanna go? Coilovers will allow you to go the lowest and are adjustable. Cheap coilovers are just that though, cheap. Ride quality will suffer. Good coilovers are $$. You could always go strut/spring combo but then you would have whatever drop you have chosen. Lowering past 1.5" will need camber kit F & R to get things back in spec.
(This is personal opinion here, do what you want.)
I don't like the idea of running extremely stretched tires. If you are sticking with the stock tires, get a wheel in 7.5" wide. I run 225/45 tires on my 7.5" and could go to an 8." I would not run a 215 on an 8" or 8.5" or a 9" but some people do. Understand that running a stretched tire will compromise performance, tire life, ride quality, I think it quite unsafe, and you can get a blowout much much easier from hitting potholes.
Also the offset of the wheel will play a major role in low/flush/rubbing/need fender work. That said...
1) What is your budget for wheels and suspension?
2) What wheel are you probably going to go with? The RPF1?
3) How much drop are you looking for?
4) How flush are you trying to get your wheels?
5) What are you looking to get out of your wheel/tire combo?
If you are going to get the RPF1 for looks, I'd say get the 17x9 +35. Run the stock tires if you must. Other people have done it. You may not like it.
Strictly performance? 17x8 and get a 235/40 Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1 tire.
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- Thread starter
- #20
Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the info man.
Well I wanna spend 1k on coilovers ( D2 maybe?) And about 1k on wheels. However I want a more flush look than stock and avoid having to use a camber kit. Only if I must.
Its ashame tho cause the lip REALLY changes the look but I need to run stock tires
Well I wanna spend 1k on coilovers ( D2 maybe?) And about 1k on wheels. However I want a more flush look than stock and avoid having to use a camber kit. Only if I must.
Its ashame tho cause the lip REALLY changes the look but I need to run stock tires