bad fishy
Well-Known Member
Why did you remove it? Do you notice any difference with it gone?
Bass setup on factory system
- Thread starter Michael Perez
- Start date
Why did you remove it? Do you notice any difference with it gone?
- Thread starter
- #22
Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
The difference is not much but it is a little louder in the cabin.
roddizzle12
Well-Known Member
- 162
- 18
Lol thanks alot Mike, yeah I've been looking around fir the l.o.c. However I'm not familiar with taping into the factory sub
- Thread starter
- #24
Michael Perez
Well-Known Member
Tapping into the sub line with an LQ2 or PAC is something an audio shop can do in no time. It is honestly the best wat to go.
Hillstones
Well-Known Member
I believe your Si has the Premium Audio System, so you did not need to use a line out converter. The speaker outputs, including the subwoofer output, from the head unit are low-level pre-amp signals since the head unit is unpowered. You could have cut the subwoofer output before the factory amp and fed that signal directly to your Alpine amp to drive your JL subwoofer. Then you could have used the subwoofer level control on the stereo to control the sub level, without an auxiliary dial.
roddizzle12
Well-Known Member
- 162
- 18
oh snap I didn't think about that, have you done it before?
Hillstones
Well-Known Member
Yes, I just had it done earlier this month. Even though I have installed stereos before, I had a shop do my stereo upgrade because I did not have the time or expertise to build a box for a subwoofer. I did a lot of research and provided the shop with the wiring diagrams for the Premium system and external amplifier. The shop removed the factory amp, speakers and subwoofer and installed a JL audio 5-channel amp, new speakers and custom sub box in the trunk with a JL 10" W3 sub. They fed the pre-amp level speaker and subwoofer outputs from the Navigation head unit (actually from the A-harness at the factory amp which were all the outputs from the head unit including amp turn-on lead) directly to the JL amp by converting the factory wires to RCA plugs for the amp. They used the wiring from the B-harness at the amp to connect to the speaker outputs on the amp, using the existing speaker wires for the new speakers. They ran a new speaker line from the amp to the JL sub. Everything worked flawlessly. The JL amp took the place of the factory amp because it can accept the differential balanced outputs from the factory head unit without any conversion necessary. It was a great upgrade and the factory stereo sounds awesome with an aftermarket amp, new speakers, and a real subwoofer in the trunk. I had the shop do dynamat in the entire trunk, rear deck, and around the speakers in the front doors. Here is the post with photos:
http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/2013-civic-premium-audio-system-navigation-stereo-upgrade.10207/
You could probably re-wire from the stereo to your amp pretty easily to eliminate the auxiliary dial for the sub control. Use the wiring diagrams in my post above to locate the subwoofer input at the factory amp. Cut those wires before the amp and feed them to your Alpine amp (use an RCA plug converter if you need to). Then you could remove the line out converter (if you used one) and remove the sub level auxiliary dial from your dash. You can buy another blank trim panel from any Honda parts online store. After you do that, the sub level control on the stereo will control your aftermarket sub.
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budurka29
Well-Known Member
- 304
- 64
I have the trunk guard thing and my sub slides everywhere and not to mention it cant hit the heavy bass hits cause its not compressed so it has a echo and sounds crappy :/ bout to mount my sub to my trunk
Edit: had spare time so i took the trunk thing out and didnt notice a diff in sound soo just going to mount it .. But it didnt slide cause friction but still ... Rather mount and kill two birds one stone then just stop from sliding :/
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