Progress 24mm rear sway bar

[RedShiftChris]

omg the 24mm is ABSOLUTELY what you want on a G-Stock Autocross car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The 22mm bar is good for the street, but even the 24mm bar cold be bigger. People who say the 24mm bar is too big are just being very careful or are scared or heard something. But in practice, the 24mm bar is far better than the 22mm bar for performance, even on the street.

Just be careful at high speeds (above 60 mph)... if you are not a good driver and you are running a bigger rear bar, you can get into trouble. But if you know what you are doing, the 24mm bar is the madman and you gotta have it.

Chris

 

[sthompson86]

omg the 24mm is ABSOLUTELY what you want on a G-Stock Autocross car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The 22mm bar is good for the street, but even the 24mm bar cold be bigger. People who say the 24mm bar is too big are just being very careful or are scared or heard something. But in practice, the 24mm bar is far better than the 22mm bar for performance, even on the street.

Just be careful at high speeds (above 60 mph)... if you are not a good driver and you are running a bigger rear bar, you can get into trouble. But if you know what you are doing, the 24mm bar is the madman and you gotta have it.

Chris

Well Spoken like a true politician. Just kidding! I do appreciate it, and the 24mm it is.

 

[RedShiftChris]

It takes work to say this correctly..... sometimes I wish I could say what I'm really thinking. hahah

 

[Dar-Dar]

Redshift ftmfw!

 

[kleblanc]

omg the 24mm is ABSOLUTELY what you want on a G-Stock Autocross car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The 22mm bar is good for the street, but even the 24mm bar cold be bigger. People who say the 24mm bar is too big are just being very careful or are scared or heard something. But in practice, the 24mm bar is far better than the 22mm bar for performance, even on the street.

Just be careful at high speeds (above 60 mph)... if you are not a good driver and you are running a bigger rear bar, you can get into trouble. But if you know what you are doing, the 24mm bar is the madman and you gotta have it.

Chris

If you have the 22mm bar and are lifting an inside tire already, isnt the 24mm bar just going to do the same thing but worse? I realize it will have an even higher roll stiffness in the rear but is there a limit before it is not helping anymore? (i.e. wheel lifting). I suppose in a fwd car you dont really car about the rear and just try and maximize the grip on the front tires anyways.

 

[silversilvia]

If you have the 22mm bar and are lifting an inside tire already, isnt the 24mm bar just going to do the same thing but worse? I realize it will have an even higher roll stiffness in the rear but is there a limit before it is not helping anymore? (i.e. wheel lifting). I suppose in a fwd car you dont really car about the rear and just try and maximize the grip on the front tires anyways.

I always thought that it would affect the other end too. I don't claim to have a 100% understanding on sways bars but a common problem for stock s2000 was the inside rear wheel lifting at tight cornering so people get stiff fronts to plant the rears and some people even getting mx-5 rear bars or disconnecting the end links in the rear depending on courses. So I always thought that on a fwd car having that stiff rear will plant the front as well as get more rotation in the rear as well. Maybe somebody can correct me but I think some improvement can be had going with 2mm stiffer despite wheels already lifting. But it is probably not worth buying another bar if u already have the 22mm

 

[RedShiftChris]

Yes you are right that lifting the rear wheel does change things, but not as much as you think. What happens is the car has a better balance everywhere because of the increased roll resistance in back; so the car handles better leading up to lifting a rear tire AND after the tire is off the ground because of this increase roll resistance relative to the front. Also note the bigger bar will lift the tire at slightly lower roll angle than the smaller bar will.... but it's because of the increase rear roll resistance, which you want and is what is making the car turn better, even after the tire has lifted.

Hope that makes sense.... it is somewhat more complicated than that, but that's what most important.

Chris

 

[kleblanc]

ya that makes sense, if the rear roll resistance is increased, the front(and whole car) will roll less, which uses the front tires better(since the strut camber curves suck), thus more grip at the front and less understeer. But even if you lift a tire, it will still be stiffer.

 

[wesellcarparts]

Your paying VENDOR who supports this forum to keep it going now has 22mm and 24mm in stock. 24mm are in limited supply so don't delay in ordering!


22mm - $179 Shipped in Continental U.S.
24mm - $270 Shipped in Continental U.S.

WeSellCarParts.com - Honda Civic 2006-2011 Progress Rear Sway Bar Progress Honda Civic 62.1009

WeSellCarParts.com - Honda Civic 2006-2011 Progress 24mm Rear Sway Bar Progress Honda Civic 62.1025

 

[Nix]

Just be careful at high speeds (above 60 mph)... if you are not a good driver and you are running a bigger rear bar, you can get into trouble. But if you know what you are doing, the 24mm bar is the madman and you gotta have it.

Chris

The car feels a little twitchy on the highway sometimes. Definitely something to be aware of. Especially pronounced if you have everything tightened up and a performance alignment.

 

[RedShiftChris]

.....although I bet exiting corners on power is like being shot out of a rifle.....

 

[FreeSamples]

.....although I bet exiting corners on power is like being shot out of a rifle.....

I'll confirm that once I get it!

Thanks again for the help and speedy shipping!!

 

[wesellcarparts]

Thanks for the orders!

 

[tmkpres]

I will be ordering the 24mm soon !

 

[silversilvia]

So after I posted about the end links clunking I tightened them up and added locktite. After about a month and 1 autox event they started clunking again. I went back to tighten them again last night and the passenger side end link the sway bar nut was loose. All 3 other bolts on the system was tight.

I checked the installation on another post and it looked correct and can't imagine it being installed any other way. Any pointers? Anyone else had this same problem?

 

[squiggy]

So after I posted about the end links clunking I tightened them up and added locktite. After about a month and 1 autox event they started clunking again. I went back to tighten them again last night and the passenger side end link the sway bar nut was loose. All 3 other bolts on the system was tight.

I checked the installation on another post and it looked correct and can't imagine it being installed any other way. Any pointers? Anyone else had this same problem?

I have not had any problems with the Moog endlinks on my Progress 22mm. I made sure to tighten them to the proper torque specs and did not use loctite. I also have the third hole drilled for the reinforcement brackets. Not sure if that will help, but I figured I would offer some perspective.

 

[Nix]

@silversilvia - Which endlinks are you running?

 

[silversilvia]

@silversilvia - Which endlinks are you running?

24mm comes with new end links. They are not greasable moogs tho

 

[Nix]

Are they the adjustable type of endlink or a solid piece? I know some people get clunking from the adjustable ones.

 

[silversilvia]

Are they the adjustable type of endlink or a solid piece? I know some people get clunking from the adjustable ones.

Yes they are! Any explanation/obvious reasons why they clunk? Any remedies?