Suspension help!

[Nix]

Don't use that one. It's mostly copper.
http://www.itwconsumer.com/versachem-products/product.cfm?id=Anti-Seize Thread Lubricant, 1 oz.-79

Works Best On: Exhaust manifold bolts, head bolts, EGR valves, oxygen sensors, spark plug threads, brake assemblies, cylinder heads, transmission shafts, stainless metal

Anti-Seize Thread Lubricant is a high temperature semi-synthetic grease with a high percentage of premium quality, micro-fine copper flakes fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors.

#13109 MSDS sheet

http://www.itwconsumer.com/userfiles/files/msds/VC-MSDS/13109.pdf


The real issue with the copper is that it provides good electrical conductivity. This is the galvanic corrosion issue with copper AS between steel and aluminum components. Low voltage current is like a weak welding arc.

 

[phil136]

My mistake:

I have GRAY LOCTITE ZINC BASED ANTI SIEZE

GRAY PERMATEX IS A BLEND.

It is also available in a nickel base, which is sweet. But the Loctite brand Zinc stuff is carried at Wal-Mart.

I might just head to walmart then. Whats the item number?

 

[Michael Perez]

Since Sunday isn't a business day I should be getting my arms tomorrow Nix thanks for all of this useful info!
I'm guessing the copper based antiseize is reacting because its higher on the activity series than aluminum? And using a less reactive metal will yield in a smaller amount of electron transfers?

 

[Michael Perez]

Also can anyone confirm how to adjust rear camber with out aftermarket arms? Or at they just solid with zero adjustment??

 

[Nix]

0 adjustment on the stock arms.

Loctite Zinc Anti-Seize is #39901 but that number is also for the large 1lb can.

Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize is #77124 - 8oz jar if you can find it.

Both were available at Wal-Mart of all places.... Home Depot didn't have anything and neither did Lowes.

The gray permatex blend is ok to use since it has 3 different metals in it and is not a high copper concentration. The graphite is a great lubricant but usually it is suspended in water or denatured alcohol.

 

[Michael Perez]

Camber arms are in running a factory -0.7 in the rear

 

[phil136]

0 adjustment on the stock arms.

Loctite Zinc Anti-Seize is #39901 but that number is also for the large 1lb can.

Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize is #77124 - 8oz jar if you can find it.

Both were available at Wal-Mart of all places.... Home Depot didn't have anything and neither did Lowes.

The gray permatex blend is ok to use since it has 3 different metals in it and is not a high copper concentration. The graphite is a great lubricant but usually it is suspended in water or denatured alcohol.

I stopped by walmart that day. They hand no anti seize of any kind. I guess it depends on the locale.

 

[phil136]

Thats not fair you live in cali lol! I'm assuming one is used as a lock but no??

You see its all relative. Mine are still in the box.

 

[phil136]

Konis in, Camber arms in..... Done and Done.


It deff looks lower... :\

 

[Michael Perez]

Nice! Why the face? And how many turns on the KONI sports?

 

[phil136]

Nice! Why the face? And how many turns on the KONI sports?

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/koni-shocks-rebound-adjustment.8718/#post-217787


face cause I didnt think my car would be lower..

 

[Dar-Dar]

Koni Yellows or aftermarket struts can lower your car even with the stock springs. Lol.

 

[phil136]

Koni Yellows or aftermarket struts can lower your car even with the stock springs. Lol.

I was told it wouldnt affect ride hight.....

 

[hey_mikey]

I was told it wouldnt affect ride hight.....

What springs do you have? Basically, since the koni sports' adjustment is for rebound, the stiffer you set them, the harder it is for the wheel to drop down (the rebound damping force is opposite the spring force). So if you set them pretty hard, it could be that the lowering springs you have don't have a high enough spring rate at the original ride height to overcome the rebound force of the shock. You can see the effect (especially on the rear by going full stiff and jacking up the car, and then doing the same on full soft. On full stiff, I bet it'll take a while before the wheel reaches the bottom of the suspension's travel, if at all.

 

[phil136]

What springs do you have? Basically, since the koni sports' adjustment is for rebound, the stiffer you set them, the harder it is for the wheel to drop down (the rebound damping force is opposite the spring force). So if you set them pretty hard, it could be that the lowering springs you have don't have a high enough spring rate at the original ride height to overcome the rebound force of the shock. You can see the effect (especially on the rear by going full stiff and jacking up the car, and then doing the same on full soft. On full stiff, I bet it'll take a while before the wheel reaches the bottom of the suspension's travel, if at all.

Gotcha. Thank you. Have H&R

 

[phil136]

ANd rear is lower than front now. I got 12 3/4 rear and 13 1/8 front.....??????????????????????

 

[hey_mikey]

ANd rear is lower than front now. I got 12 3/4 rear and 13 1/8 front.....??????????????????????

What was the measurement before? Since the hard points didn't change (spring seats, top mounts, etc) the ride height shouldn't be a whole lot different.

 

[phil136]

Wish I wrote it down. I think the front was lower. H&R

My head hurts from all this

 

[Michael Perez]

How much lower are we talking?? I plan on 225/45 tires in the future and I don't want rubbing issues. I like where the H&R springs sit.

 

[phil136]

I cant tell anymore.. lol. I need to find an uber flat surface.