Does Seafoam actually work? Vid.
- Thread starter Nix
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Wow. When we disassembled the head on my 97 civic with 240k the intake side didn't even look anywhere close to that bad. All of my buildup was in the chamber on the exhaust valves.
Bulkybear
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That's a turbo direct injection engine for ya
VW says to run the car at over 3k rpm for 20+ min and it will actually get everything hot enough to burn off the carbon. Even a patented process if memory serves correct. Was a main issue for me to buy a GDI based engine. Preforming top engine flushes/fog every 15-20k IMO is worth it to keep carbon from ever building up major. I know toyota's respond well to the method as they have over active egr's. Seafoam has been around a long time and know people that swear by it.
Bulkybear
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Just be sure to use the seafoam meant for car engines like what he used in the video with the straw. Don't use the normal stuff. I've been told the original seafoam was meant to be used in 2 cycle boat engines and isn't good to run in modern engines. Most mechanics I've talked to swear by gumout actually.
13blacksedan
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I was looking around a camaro forum and found guys using "catch cans" to prevent these problems. Look into how they work, it's pretty clever.
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Yea, they help with blowby.
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- #29
@Darkout - What do you use?
The products they use at Toyota is from Service Rite. It is a kit that has a TB cleaner spray, fuel additive to help with injectors and a less concentrated additive for the induction side. (I have ran the fuel additive as an induction fluid and seemed to double the amount of carbon break down, haven't seen any ill effects on the car yet) This kit requiers an IV drip bottle but a simple tube dipped into the bottle and the other end on an intake port will suffice. A T splitter inline with the tube will allow some air to mix so you don't choke the motor and stall. I usually use the evap port on the intake manifold as it is designed to allow even dispersion to all cylinders. Ford uses petrol products I believe but i can't seem to find any to confirm the name. They also have used BG products which is IV dripped or used with their special adapter to shoot a mist in front of the TB while it runs. BG is a great product. CRC products is another alternative.
TB maintenance is the number one thing to do if you don't want to do a full induction service. And i'll recommend if you do decide to do an induction service, do it right BEFORE an oil change. The blow by when fogging is rich in by products that you don't want to mix with your fresh oil. Also make sure the motor is warmed up and hot already before you start, helps with breakdown quicker. Don't let the car idle for too long as the chemical builds up in the intake and too much with a hard throttle blip could cause a hydro lock. 2k rpm is recommended for Toyota's but for my own car I let it pool up in the intake for a min or 2 under idle and then run the throttle up slowly every so often to blow it out. It seemed to produce better results. Letting it sit bakes with the carbon in the intake for a better breakdown. Also been told that you could kill the motor half way through and let it sit for 10-15 min to further allow the chemical to bake in the intake if you suspect heavy build up.
It's not as important as a GDI but well worth it. Anyone local can bum chemicals from me i have 10+ kits saved over time lol
I ran about 6-10 bottles through my Avalon at 190k and smoked till the last few. Took about 45 min total to run everything through. There is controversy about if the chemical itself burns and smokes without carbon being taken off but I don't believe it. I have seen plenty of cars that do it regularly and not so much smoke comes out but you can smell it for sure.
TB maintenance is the number one thing to do if you don't want to do a full induction service. And i'll recommend if you do decide to do an induction service, do it right BEFORE an oil change. The blow by when fogging is rich in by products that you don't want to mix with your fresh oil. Also make sure the motor is warmed up and hot already before you start, helps with breakdown quicker. Don't let the car idle for too long as the chemical builds up in the intake and too much with a hard throttle blip could cause a hydro lock. 2k rpm is recommended for Toyota's but for my own car I let it pool up in the intake for a min or 2 under idle and then run the throttle up slowly every so often to blow it out. It seemed to produce better results. Letting it sit bakes with the carbon in the intake for a better breakdown. Also been told that you could kill the motor half way through and let it sit for 10-15 min to further allow the chemical to bake in the intake if you suspect heavy build up.
It's not as important as a GDI but well worth it. Anyone local can bum chemicals from me i have 10+ kits saved over time lol
I ran about 6-10 bottles through my Avalon at 190k and smoked till the last few. Took about 45 min total to run everything through. There is controversy about if the chemical itself burns and smokes without carbon being taken off but I don't believe it. I have seen plenty of cars that do it regularly and not so much smoke comes out but you can smell it for sure.