Knocking sound after springs install

hmm. that's odd. my regular craftsman and evercraft sockets and ratchets were never an issue on the '12, and i can't see the '13 being that much different
 
that rear most bolt, i needed a 7" extension to reach through the cowl, but the other ones were fine with regular sockets and either a ratchet or breaker bar
 
That sucks, but good to know as I don't have appropriate wrenches or the max axxess ones. I am contemplating doing springs soon.

They made it really difficult, I'm not sure if there's a difference between 2012/13.

When you do. Make sure u mark the struts and have the factory markings/arrows (on top hats) point to the front when putting back.


Need to try breaker bar....that what we used in combination with the offset wrench. Dont remember how it fit exactly.
 
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I had this kind of experience myself. When I took off my wheel, I noticed that the spring was rubbing against each other. What I did was add some lithium grease. It became a lot more quiet now. But occasionally, I would hear it faintly.

Was it only on one side? It seems strange that its one side only. Did it happen when you turned the wheels?
 
So does anyone with H&Rs have this tok tok tok sound turning the wheels in either direction ?

To describe it in more detail you start turning the wheels there's a tok keep turning, another tok, and another tok.
 
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So does anyone with H&Rs have this tok tok tok sound turning the wheels in either direction ?

To describe it in more detail you start turning the wheels there's a tok keep turning, another tok, and another tok.
Yes, lots of people (including myself) experience this with the sportlines and the H&Rs

I remember reading that it is the top tip of the spring hitting a piece of metal in the top hat.

Not sure if I'm describing it right but I read it's normal and should go away after a lot of driving (500-5000) miles
 
Yes, lots of people (including myself) experience this with the sportlines and the H&Rs

I remember reading that it is the top tip of the spring hitting a piece of metal in the top hat.

Not sure if I'm describing it right but I read it's normal and should go away after a lot of driving (500-5000) miles

Thanks 323. that gives me a little peace of mind.
 
Thanks 323. that gives me a little peace of mind.
I'll try to find the original article I was reading on the sportlines...it made a lot of sense when I read it but that was months ago
 
Ok I had this same exact problem after my coilover install. A gruesome knocking (front left) while doing sharp turns such as parking and/or K turns or U turns. I looked at everything that could be wrong on this thread and i still couldn't narrow it down to anything. After about 5 minutes of looking in my wheel well and comparing each side to the other, i noticed that my sway bar end link behind the strut had popped out of it's joint. The knocking noise was the end link smacking the living **** outta my cv axle. If i didn't catch it when i did, i would have had a bad week in the near future.

How to fix this particular situation: Make sure when you install your new coilovers and put your end links on (referring to the front of course), that there is plenty of room for that socket to rotate while your wheel is turned 100% left and right.
The KSports i have on there, have an adjustable end link height (not sure if all are like mine). But to adjust the height, you of course spin it around until it's at the height you want and lock it down with an allen. For me, the problem came about because my bracket was a good bit too far clockwise. So with the wheel turned all the way right, it had a LOT of play. Then about 80% to the left is when the ball joint had NO play at all... just a little bit more into the turn and POP! goes the joint... thereafter, whenever your wheel is turned enough to catch that end link, it'll start throwing it into the cv axle. Before long, you're looking at a new cv axle, new end links and more money and/or sweat that can be prevented.

I really hope this helps someone!
 
I was unable to get the ratchet in there to reach the back nuts of the shock tower either when I did my install. I ended up using a plain wrench, turning the nut 1/3 of a turn at a time. It sucked. A ratchet wrench would be the best thing to use.

However, I have removed my wiper cowl sometime after that to replace the splitter/valve for my windshield washers (clogged and/or broken check valve), and I must say it was not very difficult. If I had to do it all over again I would have removed the wiper arms and outer plastic parts of the cowl in order to reach the strut nuts.
 
I was unable to get the ratchet in there to reach the back nuts of the shock tower either when I did my install. I ended up using a plain wrench, turning the nut 1/3 of a turn at a time. It sucked. A ratchet wrench would be the best thing to use.

However, I have removed my wiper cowl sometime after that to replace the splitter/valve for my windshield washers (clogged and/or broken check valve), and I must say it was not very difficult. If I had to do it all over again I would have removed the wiper arms and outer plastic parts of the cowl in order to reach the strut nuts.

One of the bolts is a real pain in the ***. Not the one that has the access cowl but the on next to it. I bought a craftsman max access set now its no problem.
 
I was unable to get the ratchet in there to reach the back nuts of the shock tower either when I did my install. I ended up using a plain wrench, turning the nut 1/3 of a turn at a time. It sucked. A ratchet wrench would be the best thing to use.

However, I have removed my wiper cowl sometime after that to replace the splitter/valve for my windshield washers (clogged and/or broken check valve), and I must say it was not very difficult. If I had to do it all over again I would have removed the wiper arms and outer plastic parts of the cowl in order to reach the strut nuts.

One of the bolts is a real pain in the ***. Not the one that has the access cowl but the on next to it. I bought a craftsman max access set now its no problem.

yeah, if you don't have a ratchet that reaches that area, pulling the wiper arm and plastic beneath it allows you to access all three bolts easily.IMG_1642.jpg
 
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Did you fix the issue? I just installed TruHart lowering springs and am experiencing the same noise on the same side. I have the oem endlinks on either side and they were both reinstalled the same way. Ive checked my tower bolts and everything else at least twice. I cant seem to narrow this noise down. I might just take out the end link and put it back in if I have to. Just want to know for sure.

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