remote wire to amp

No that will keep your amp on all the time and ruin your battery. It needs to he wired to some sort of switched connection that comes on and off with the key so when you turn the key off your amp turns off. Unless you put it on a toggle switch and manually turn it on and off (wouldnt recommend that)
 
Bulkybear said:
No that will keep your amp on all the time and ruin your battery. It needs to he wired to some sort of switched connection that comes on and off with the key so when you turn the key off your amp turns off. Unless you put it on a toggle switch and manually turn it on and off (wouldnt recommend that)
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What is bad about the toggle switch?
 
everytime you go somewhere and leave your car for a long period of time youd have to turn the amp off with switch and if your forget drain your battery.
 
The main thing, like was already said, is just forgetting to turn it off. It WILL happen. Most likely when you're already late for work. To wire a toggle in you would have to run wires up by you (you want the toggle switch in your reach right?). Why not go the extra couple of feet into the fuse panel. I usually use the fuse for the rear defroster if that helps.
 
I have mine ran to the fusebox as well but with a toggle switch wired in as well. My initial question was a concern until I reread the first post.
 
I would go the extra few feet and run it up behind your head unit to the remote turn on for your factory amp. Just splice it in however you'd like: t-tap, scotch lock, twist and tape, or solder. But that's where it's meat to go. If you really want to go to a fuse go to the radio fuse. I would put a fuse inline with the amp. Should it ever blow you will know right away. Just my 2 cents since I do this for a living. The problem with going I the fuse is that the fuse is 2 sided, in and out. You go to the in, even when the fuse pops, you'll still have power to the amp. Go to the out, you'll most likely keep popping the fuse because your obviously pulling more power then you were meant.
 
boejoula said:
I would go the extra few feet and run it up behind your head unit to the remote turn on for your factory amp. Just splice it in however you'd like: t-tap, scotch lock, twist and tape, or solder. But that's where it's meat to go. If you really want to go to a fuse go to the radio fuse. I would put a fuse inline with the amp. Should it ever blow you will know right away. Just my 2 cents since I do this for a living. The problem with going I the fuse is that the fuse is 2 sided, in and out. You go to the in, even when the fuse pops, you'll still have power to the amp. Go to the out, you'll most likely keep popping the fuse because your obviously pulling more power then you were meant.
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No offense and correct me if I'm wrong. But there is no remote turn on lead in the factory head unit. Doesn't it run on a canbuss system? And the remote wire for lack of a better way to put it doesn't pull a current. It a minuscule amount of electricity that tells the amp its on and doesn't put any additional amperage on the line. I went to the out side and haven't blown any fuses for what's its worth.
 
Bulkybear said:
No offense and correct me if I'm wrong. But there is no remote turn on lead in the factory head unit. Doesn't it run on a canbuss system? And the remote wire for lack of a better way to put it doesn't pull a current. It a minuscule amount of electricity that tells the amp its on and doesn't put any additional amperage on the line. I went to the out side and haven't blown any fuses for what's its worth.
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I'm not sure if the new civic runs on can wires to be honest, I haven't pulled one apart yet. But yes, it pulls such a small amount it wouldn't matter. But he's worried about blowing a fuse so that. Would be the one to blow. I can look it up tomorrow at work and see if there's a remote turn on or it runs on can bus.
 
boejoula said:
I'm not sure if the new civic runs on can wires to be honest, I haven't pulled one apart yet. But yes, it pulls such a small amount it wouldn't matter. But he's worried about blowing a fuse so that. Would be the one to blow. I can look it up tomorrow at work and see if there's a remote turn on or it runs on can bus.
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Definitely would be something nice to know. Keep us updated! Another benefit to going through the fusebox however is not having to pull the radio out. It's a pain, you have to pull the whole dash apart. I did it looking for a pre amp output for my LOC. I found out that it used a balanced differential output and wouldn't work. To the OP you shouldn't have any issues tapping into the fuse box. Just go through something like your rear defroster just for reassurance though. So if it does blow its nothing too important.
 
Wire color and locations for the radio. 2012 civic, all models. No can bus wires. Colors may change at the factory amp which it located to the right of the steering column.
 

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can I hook up my remote wire to my rear speaker? Or which fuse panel did u tie it into the engine or the interior fuse box and what fuse did u tie it in with
 
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