Amazon, Mobil 1 & Valvoline Oil Compared

webby said:
yeah, it's just 5w-20 instead of 0w-20. Not a huge deal, but I did see that.
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...don't think you'd see much difference in the cold flow capabilities between the two. If anything I'd take the 5w since there's less VI, the lighter components that burn off, disappear or fail to function as desired.
 
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Viscosity Index Improvers: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1327/viscosity-index-improvers

Disadvantages
Unfortunately, viscosity index improvers do have some drawbacks. The primary disadvantage is they are susceptible to mechanical shearing. When referring to the slinky analogy, it is easy to imagine a stretched-out slinky cut in half by mechanical processes to produce two shorter slinkys.

As the additive is repeatedly sheared, it loses its ability to act as a more viscous fluid at higher temperatures. Higher molecular weight polymers make better thickeners but tend to have less resistance to mechanical shear. Lower molecular weight polymers are more shear-resistant, but do not improve viscosity as effectively at higher temperatures and, therefore, must be used in larger quantities.

1. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slinky
 
One of the interesting features of a multi-vis oil, let say a 10w-30, is that there isn't any 30 weight base oil in the mix. (Notice the "w" is after the first number... that's the base oil being used)

What does that mean? It means the oil is really a 10w that acts like a thicker, more protective oil because of the presence of viscosity modifiers. But, and this is key, once VI "shears off" (see article) all we have left is the thinner, less protective base oil. Of course this happens in stages, not all at once.

Which is why I prefer to limit the use of VI if I can. If i'm extending the drain interval beyond my normal comfort zone I like knowing that the oil is still protecting at the higher viscosity and hasn't sheared off. (some also say "sheared down" for obvious reasons)

Honda recommends the relatively light weight 0w-20 for the added fuel economy benefits. Fine, the wear data clearly shows the lighter 0w will protect the engine just as well as a slightly heavier 5w or 10w. I happen to use a 5w-20 or even a 10w-30 because of where I live. And if given a choice between two viscosity bands (0w - 20 versus 5w - 20) i'll choose the 5w-20, the one with less VI.
 
Yo, @mySIck... you don't always need to change oil if you want to send Blackstone a sample. There's this extraction tool... pictured here:
1505
 
One thing that I like about this oil is its made for the dodge srt models. Mobil 1 0-40 European oil was standard fill in the srt-4 Neon. Still a very great oil, but too thick now for these slow new cars:rotfl:
 
@mySIck You're about the only kind of guy I'd buy a car from. Somebody obsessed with taking care of the engine.
 
I do try to keep up and make sure all the maintenance items are kept up to date. If you don't take care of your car it'll die on you in a heart beat. Especially these newer, more sensitive cars.
 
bauer311 said:
I do try to keep up and make sure all the maintenance items are kept up to date. If you don't take care of your car it'll die on you in a heart beat. Especially these newer, more sensitive cars.
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A good friend of mine was pretty high up in Honda. Said I could forget about having a newer Honda that would last 200 - 300k anymore. At least not without incurring incredible expense.

"Customers want comfort and good looks" he said, "that's about it". "And they trade in their cars more often, if not lease them". His point? Why build cars to last 200 - 300k if the cars won't be driven that long anyway?

He actually made that comment 15 years ago. And it seems true, people do appreciate having a new car more often. And cars have become more comfortable and fuel efficient.

I kept a 1991 Accord on the road for 270,000+ before it was totaled in a high speed accident in the rain. (Was hit by a guy with bald tires and left the freeway sideways)

Even then, it got to be quite expensive to keep the car in good repair over 200,000. Radiator, fan motors, another timing belt, water pump, spark plug seals (in the head) another set of CV boots and shafts, a new clutch of course, motor mounts, and then all the things I had never even heard of before.

I used to think it was cheaper to keep an old car on the road. Maybe it was back back then (1950's - 1980's?) now i'm thinking 150,000 or anytime it's due for a lot of expensive work after 125,000. What do you guys think?

Keep in mind -- the engine might be solid as a rock. But there's a lot more to a car than an engine. And nothing is cheap.
 
Well who bought a jug of Ultra pennsoil?:domokundance: I did when I saw that rebate for $10 brought the price down to $19 -Good for these new dodge race cars-the SRT models-it has to be great oil.:guitar::bananapop:
 
I have mobil 1 in my vfr 800, I also use Castrol syn in 10-40w-this is special bike oil not for cars, VFR spins much faster than cars rpm 11750, this is a real vtec monster. It also has the optional $1000 bike abs nisson brakes-one finger stopping brakes. Still putting a chain on, chain tool broke-getting another one.:joke: Car oils have more friction modifiers that screw up the bikes clutch.:paper:
 
:ownedrun:did chain rebit tool, broke on first ribit, I used a cheap one on another bike -it broke too. A lot of pressure going on that rebit flare. I sent tool back for a refund. I changed the oil too, a lot of pain in the ***. I practice on old ribit this time, I am going to grind it off and do it over again. When I was flaring might have been a bit off.:pout: I submitted my $10 rebate on the ultra pennsoil 05-20:popcornbig: , you can do this twice, so I get another jug. The price went down $5, its actually $15 after the rebate add taxs-You will never see it lower I don't think. Just bought my 2 jug of Ultra 05-20. Both have a ten dollar rebate. file out online to save a stamp and screw post office.
 
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