Mother Of All Whore Threads Non-VIP Edition v.1

Janz3n said:
The receptionist at my work has been wanting a BBQ for a while. She's single with like 3 kids so we all try and help her out a bit. My wife does her hair for free. I found a free BBQ with a propane tank with propane. Just needs a new grate. This helps my need for getting useful free stuff but not keeping it for myself. Although my mother in-law came home last night and was going to sit me down and have a talk about how many BBQs I have when she saw this.

I currently have 3 myself but I don't use our propane BBQ and for some reason my wife won't let me get rid of it. Haven't used it in over a year and I'm pretty sure there's mold on the grates now.
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What do you mean a 'talk'? I mean you are an adult and she needs to mind her own business.
 
bootyluvr said:
What do you mean a 'talk'? I mean you are an adult and she needs to mind her own business.
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friday-chris-tucker.gif
 
Finished up the jeep maint yesterday after working on it for a couple days. Just took my time and worked a couple of hours here and there. Wife has been in Seattle since last Monday and gets back this afternoon. So I had plenty of time.

Didn't have any left over bolts at the end of it, so that's a good sign. Also no lights on the dash, lol.
 
It's when you're missing bolts it's an issue.

Went to look at a house for sale after work. It's been rented for 5 months and it was destroyed compared to the photos on the ad. It was wild. House needs to be torn down.
 
Janz3n said:
It's when you're missing bolts it's an issue.

Went to look at a house for sale after work. It's been rented for 5 months and it was destroyed compared to the photos on the ad. It was wild. House needs to be torn down.
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Does said house have a garage? I'm totally down for a condemned house at this point :spaz:
 
Anyone here a novice electrical engineer of sorts? I'm pretty good, but am looking for a 2nd opinion on something (non-Civic related). Happy to take the conversation outside the thread (or, just post here); but, this is where I tend to hang out the most in this forum, so I'm asking here if anyone is willing to dive down a schematic rabbit hole with me.
 
AlmosN8kd said:
Anyone here a novice electrical engineer of sorts? I'm pretty good, but am looking for a 2nd opinion on something (non-Civic related). Happy to take the conversation outside the thread (or, just post here); but, this is where I tend to hang out the most in this forum, so I'm asking here if anyone is willing to dive down a schematic rabbit hole with me.
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post it up. Let's see what you've got
 
AlmosN8kd said:
Anyone here a novice electrical engineer of sorts? I'm pretty good, but am looking for a 2nd opinion on something (non-Civic related). Happy to take the conversation outside the thread (or, just post here); but, this is where I tend to hang out the most in this forum, so I'm asking here if anyone is willing to dive down a schematic rabbit hole with me.
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Schematics?! I’m not an EE but dangerous enough
 
webby said:
post it up. Let's see what you've got
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FooBird said:
Schematics?! I’m not an EE but dangerous enough
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Ok, so if you remember me posting about my front bumper replacement on my Stealth (I've only mentioned it about 100 times, so, maybe not). Anyhow, one of the side effects of this I didn't account for ahead of time were the turn signal bulbs. With the original setup, the turn signal housings were amber; however, on the 99 3000GT setup, the turn signal housings are clear; not a big deal overall. However, I used what I had which were clear (white) light bulbs. Fortunately, with the reflector inside the 99 3000GT turn signal housing, the new turn signals appeared mostly amber; so, it is passable, at least temporarily. Anyhow, wanting to make it correct, and maybe improve things a bit, I've opted to install LED bulbs. Here is the difference (pictures don't carry the color quite as well as I'd hoped):
White bulbs:
Turn Signals - White.jpg

Amber LEDs:
Turn Signals - Amber.jpg

When I purchased the LEDs, I figured I'd replace front and rear at the same time and never have to worry about these ever again; I also knew that this would change the flash rate due to the reduced load on the circuit. Fortunately, the company I purchased the LEDs through offered a Flasher relay to adjust things without having to add resistors (I really didn't want to add resistors so I thought this would make things super simple). So, you might be asking yourself at this point, why am I now posing an electrical question?

Well, this is where things get semi-interesting (from a nerdy perspective). So, my car is a Stealth, which for all intents and purposes, is identical to a 3000GT; however, there remain some subtle differences between them, most of which are cosmetic. And, well, it turns out, the same is true for the turn signal/flasher circuit which caught me a bit by surprise; the Stealth (of my year's production) does not have a Flasher relay, it has a flasher module. I've been an enthusiast on this platform for more than 20yrs and didn't realize these were different (and, I know most every bolt on the car from looking at it). The background is, that after 1991, Mitsubishi abandoned the original Flasher module in place of a flasher relay; however, while Mitsubishi produced both the 3000GT and the Stealth in Nagoya, Japan, they did not make this same change on the Stealths. Why? I have no idea. I suspect, and this is purely a guess, that Chrysler didn't want to pay for the R&D to make the change (even though, Mitsubishi already did it and probably would've split costs - who knows?).

Anyhow, I now have a flasher relay I cannot use and a circuit that doesn't have enough load, so I've been diving down the rabbit hole of how to solve this problem. I've come up with the following options:
1) Modify the existing flasher module to support the reduced load and restore blink rate
2) Rewire the car to use a flasher module and install the updated one for the reduced load
3) Install resistors (or, install regular bulbs, at least in the front, temporarily to accomplish the same effect)
4) Replace the body harness with one from a 3000GT
5) Say "Fvck it" and deal with hyper blinking

All together, I think options 1-3 are the most viable and are ordered in desired preference. Option 4 has the potential to get exorbitantly expensive and is probably not worth the effort (not to mention, I do not know what other issues I'd run into as a result of this). Option 5 is just one I do not like.

Option 1: So, I've been trying to find someone who may be able to modify the module to work, I think this is a bit outside my knowledge and I'm not sure how much resistance can, or needs to, be added.

Option 3: I'd still prefer not to do. Mostly as I don't want to worry about the heat management associated with the resistors around plastic and other components (such as the light housings) or being exposed to the elements. I did this method on my motorcycle and haven't had any issues; but, the LED manufacturer had a specific warning about these so it gives me caution. As for reinstalling regular bulbs, it doesn't get past the long-term issue of finding bulbs getting increasingly more difficult as LEDs become more prominent. Fortunately, I have some used ones, and could put these in as when I tested the circuit (after replacing the fronts only) the blink rate was normal. But, the LEDs are considerably brighter than the incandescent bulbs which is pretty important (I think).

Option 2: This is where I've been spending most of my time, digging into the rabbit hole of the schematics for the car and where I'm looking for help.

Here is the wiring setup for the turn signal circuit on my car (the module is located in the lower left):
Stealth Turn Signal Large Bumper.jpg

Here is the same circuit, except it is from one of the cars with a turn signal relay (the relay is located in the exact same area on the lower left):
Stealth Turn Signal Small Bumper Type 1.jpg
Now, this is very odd as this is what I think is the base model version of the Stealth for 1994 - so, maybe Chrysler kept the module on the upper trim versions as it was a 'premium' even though going to the relay would've been possibly more sensible in 30yrs? Again, who knows why Chrysler didn't follow Mitsubishi in this change.

So, looking over the drawings at connecter E-30 in particular (this is the plug for the module), I think if I rewire the circuit as follows, I can use a flasher relay instead of a modified module (although, I think the modified module is likely the more elegant solution):

E-30 Pin 14 goes to Relay pin 2.
Relay Pin 3 goes to E-30 pin 12
Relay Pin 1 goes to E-30 pins 10 & 11
E-30 pin 2 goes to E-30 pins 1 & 7
E-30 pin 4 goes to E-30 pins 5 & 6
E-30 pin 3 is unused?

Does this look right to you? What did I miss? What questions do you have where I can add clarity and understanding? Why am I going to a Civic forum for help on a 30yr old Mitsubishi product (because this same question on the 3/S forums has gone unanswered)?


You may not have needed all this background, I probably could've said, how do I replace the module in picture A with a relay like in picture B but thought it would make a lot more sense to understand the context. I apologize if this was not the case and you have now wasted 30mins of your life reading all of my non-Civic nonsense.
 
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