DIY 2012+ Civic Si Hasport Rear Motor Mount Installation

Nevermind, I read your DIY....are the vibrations still *** bad? @Twitch

The vibration is constant but varies depending on the throttle. The worst is around 2,000 rpm's when stuck in traffic. Just a little throttle when going slow and it rattles the windows. Same thing on a cold morning when warming up. The trunk lid will actually rattle and i can hear it inside the house.

All in all I've had it on for 5 months and about 10,000 miles. I drive 50 miles 5 days a week to work; 25 each way (60% hwy) and i live on Long Island so, 25 miles can take an hour. When cruising around its great. Shifts are smoother (Automatic) and the car feels good. When stuck in traffic after a long day at work with a headache, it sucks. Its really only me in the car as i take the CR-V with my wife and daughter. Coworkers who ride we me to get lunch have asked "how do you live with this?" while the others who understand cars will say its really not that bad. For me the trade off for the smoother shift at higher rpms was worth it as i drive very aggressively.
 
Damn I don't think its worth the trade off...i HATE abnormal noises, i get mad when i hear my red bull can rattling in the cup holder from exhaust vibrations. Maybe I will bite the bullet one day :(
 
You could always buy another stock mount and fill the empty spaces with 3m window weld. It'll be an improvement over stock but not as bad as a full race style mount.

http://www.collegehillshondaparts.c...unts-1-8l-at-scat/?part_name=rod-torque-lower

$42-ish for the mount and like $20-30 for a tube of window weld. Less than $100 overall for a serious improvement. I have my lower mount done this way. Nearly unnoticeable in comparison to the Boomba mount I had installed for about 5 minutes. Holy headache.
 
@Mikeorock you can order the replacement urethane in any stiffness for $10 from Hasport if you are not happy with how stiff the mount is.
Thanks.. I wonder how you get the original inserts out?? Im ok with the mounts now..I have 88a. But I'm curious how an 80 a or 70a would feel..
I went with 88a mounts all around in the summer because turbo.. I can hear everything in the transmission .. But they're good to have.. I would try a softer insert out just to see if it sounds better.. That's not a bad price..
 
Give this a little bump. Just did this today and what a pain for the top right bolt where the frame is in the way. Either way, felt the car start rumble right through the cabin, expected that. I have a muffler delete straight pipe from the res back. a quick rev up to 2k i feel it pretty good in the cabin. Beyond that, nothing changed between the old mount.

Although, shifting, rowing through the gears it just plants the power and I don't get a jerky feeling even when I know I did a clean shift. The through bolt btw from Hasport is a 7/8" which I'm lucky I had one. I also added grease aka Magnalube which I use for my AR-15, just a drop where it was metal to metal for the new install to prevent squeaking while its working in. Did the same on the top/bottom of the bushing and bushing housing so I don't ever have to go back under there.

Oh and also ratcheting wrenches will defiantly help. Took ~ 1hr 30 min.. Would've been done quicker but those bolts were a pain in the ***.

So gonna reply to myself. Now September. This caused much of a rattle that my dash is vibrating now no matter what RPM. At this point I'd have to take the whole dash off and find what got loose, its plastic some where. I've smacked the top of the dash a few times, but didn't solve it much. This is about ~3k miles now and it hasn't gotten any better since the day I installed it. Not sure if I should re-adjust it, re-torque or something.
 
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So gonna reply to myself. Now September. This caused much of a rattle that my dash is vibrating now no matter what RPM. At this point I'd have to take the whole dash off and find what got loose, its plastic some where. I've smacked the top of the dash a few times, but didn't solve it much. This is about ~3k miles now and it hasn't gotten any better since the day I installed it. Not sure if I should re-adjust it, re-torque or something.
Yes it might need to be re-adjusted.. Installed mine about 2 months back and have put less than 3k miles and the vibrations barely noticeable except taking off from a stop.
 
I just switched out the urethane from 62a to 70a in the rear mount and added the hasport upper mount in 62a. It is very true make sure the mount is centred and aligned correctly as the car feels like stock at idle with or with out ac on. I only get a small amount of vibration upon take off. The best way after trying a few times installing the mount in my situation was to have the centre bolt that connects the mount to the black base plate free of tension and able to move side to side with this bolt being the last one to tighten down as well .
 
The new version comes w/o the bracket. Should I try to get the old version? Which is better.
Also, I plan to get the 70a even though I want for daily driving and bolt ons/tune. Is that ok, im not worried about vibrations cause I will have subs kicking.
 
The new version comes w/o the bracket. Should I try to get the old version? Which is better.
Also, I plan to get the 70a even though I want for daily driving and bolt ons/tune. Is that ok, im not worried about vibrations cause I will have subs kicking.
They are selling the RMM without the mounting bracket?
 
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The new version comes w/o the bracket. Should I try to get the old version? Which is better.
Also, I plan to get the 70a even though I want for daily driving and bolt ons/tune. Is that ok, im not worried about vibrations cause I will have subs kicking.
Having seen it now, I wouldn't say either one is better than the other.
Is the new version a little less expensive?
 
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