2013 stabalizer bar diameter?

promar93 said:
Like Nix explained, they upgraded both to give the car a "better" feel. The Honda spec sheets the measurements for 2012 were F 18 / R 15. And the 2013 is F 21 / R 18.
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Thanks. Its just all the reviews of the 13 I read were emphasizing the "front" upgrade. So I thought it was the only one upgraded. I couldn't find a spec sheet that listed the sway bars.

So would adding say, a 22mm to the rear improve handling as well?
 
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The other tricky part is that for the 2012+ they changed the mounting point of the front sway from the lower arm to having the endlink attach to the strut body itself. I'm not sure how this affects the rate of the bar or changes the leverage. I do know that the front endlinks look really long now. They left the rear suspension the same so I'm unsure as to whether the car has more or less understeer than the previous gen. The leverage of the front sway could be very similar or hugely different.

However, the car still understeers a lot and either the 22mm or the 24mm will make a large improvement. If the 24mm fits it might not be a bad idea to go with the increased size since the Front has been bumped up as well.
 
I have a 2013 Sedan and the car has not understeered on me yet.

Have taken 20mph round abouts @ 65 and I call the car 'point and shoot' during those times.

I just turn the wheel and it goes there, very awesome feel. The back squats more than I'd like though it is just too high IMO.


IF only upgrading 1 bar, do the rear, if upgrading both then go for a fatter rear with a '13 front to get the car feeling even better.
 
9000 RPM said:
I have a 2013 Sedan and the car has not understeered on me yet.

Have taken 20mph round abouts @ 65 and I call the car 'point and shoot' during those times.

I just turn the wheel and it goes there, very awesome feel. The back squats more than I'd like though it is just too high IMO.


IF only upgrading 1 bar, do the rear, if upgrading both then go for a fatter rear with a '13 front to get the car feeling even better.
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I have not had any understeer issues as well, and I have been trying to push it around the bends, but have yet to experience it.

Maybe honda really did address this issue.
 
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Try it when it's a little wet out and the car lets go easier. See if the front or rear lets go first. Do it in a parking lot or somewhere else deserted and safe.

In a light snow I can get the back to break free first with a little lift off oversteer but in slightly wet conditions the front lets go.

MarkA - Mark has some track experience with his Si and I think he can attest to the true nature of the understeer of the civic when pushed hard.
 
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Nix said:
MarkA - Mark has some track experience with his Si and I think he can attest to the true nature of the understeer of the civic when pushed hard.
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The understeer really shows up when turning into a tight corner. If you're entry speed is too high, you turn the wheel and the car just keeps going straight ahead. Then, you get to listen to your tires complain about how hard you're working them, until you either straighten the wheel, or your speed drops enough for the car to start to turn. The 2012+ models have enough torque in the mid rpm range that you can get on the throttle and start getting your speed back just before the apex, but it would be better if you could be going faster at the turn in.

I have a 2012 Si sedan, and I replaced the stock 15 mm rear sway bar with the Progress 22 mm bar. (It's an easy DIY, BTW). It does make a noticeable improvement, but not so much as to cause oversteer. I could probably have used the 24 mm bar. If the 2013 has a thicker bar to begin with, I would definitely go with the 24 mm. The other technique that helps is to stay on the brakes a little longer, as you start to turn, so it keeps more weight on the nose. However, that brings out the next problem with running an Si on the track: the brakes don't have enough cooling. My brakes got so hot, the heat transferred into the wheels, and the little plastic caps with the Honda "H" on them, in the center of the wheel, got soft enough to fall out. I thought it was quite a coincidence, to come across a little silver disk with the H on it, laying on the ground of the paddock, until I realized that it was from my own car! That's a topic for another thread.

For street driving, the car also felt more solid with the 22 mm bar. I haven't driven a 2013 model, so I don't know if the changes they made to the stock Si had the same effect.
 
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Nix said:
The other tricky part is that for the 2012+ they changed the mounting point of the front sway from the lower arm to having the endlink attach to the strut body itself. I'm not sure how this affects the rate of the bar or changes the leverage. I do know that the front endlinks look really long now. They left the rear suspension the same so I'm unsure as to whether the car has more or less understeer than the previous gen. The leverage of the front sway could be very similar or hugely different.
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When working on my front brakes, I was amazed by the looooong end link of the front sway bar. It looks to be parallel to the strut, so it shouldn't change the rate of the sway bar very much, but they must have had some reason for changing the mounting point. It certainly wasn't to minimize the material necessary for the end link.
 
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MarkA said:
When working on my front brakes, I was amazed by the looooong end link of the front sway bar. It looks to be parallel to the strut, so it shouldn't change the rate of the sway bar very much, but they must have had some reason for changing the mounting point. It certainly wasn't to minimize the material necessary for the end link.
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I was just looking at the front endlinks last time I was under my car. Those things are ridiculously long! Moog makes replacements, btw.
 
dialing out the negative camber in the rear helps too, say bringing it to 0.0 degrees.

I don't track my car at the moment so IDK what it's like in that environment but so far it has been excellent, tires don't even squeal(oem summer).
 
Thanks mark!

I have the progress 22mm along wth Koni/Neuspeed setup and even with a performance alignment, -1.3 F -0.8R, I still get a bit of understeer if I go too fast into a turn and its damp out. I don't drive dangerously on the street so I won't attempt an 80mph entry speed into a turn but standard highway speed into an offramp gives a pretty good idea of whats going to happen.

When the roads are dry I have had no issues but the car drives much better than it used to.
 
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