420Coupe's BOSS R18A1

So decided to post pone the retrofit and get a BBK pretty dead set on the StopTech Trophy kit, just trying to figure whether to get the 328x35 or 328x28 now just need to find them at the best deal possible.
 
Do not mind running spacers as long as i can get them to fit!


Going to need stopping power cannot depend on the tiny front brakes and rear drums :giggle:
 
i really love my brembos haha. i think you will love your stoptechs. and also OMG DRUMS STILL??
 
reximus said:
i really love my brembos haha. i think you will love your stoptechs. and also OMG DRUMS STILL??
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I like to live life on the EDGE :giggle: just figured if im going to upgrade might as well do it right the first time or not at all, so waiting to find the StopTech Trophy BBK i want
 
Drums on this particular car generate more force in the rear than the discs. Try an e-brake slide and the drums will lock up better than the discs even with the mechanism to prevent it in place. Many of the rear disc EX & Si models have surface rust on the rotors continuously due to the lack of force from the brake and the proportioning valve.
 
Nix said:
Drums on this particular car generate more force in the rear than the discs. Try an e-brake slide and the drums will lock up better than the discs even with the mechanism to prevent it in place. Many of the rear disc EX & Si models have surface rust on the rotors continuously due to the lack of force from the brake and the proportioning valve.
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tires locking up is not a good thing.
 
True, but its just interesting that people are SHOCKED!!! by drum brakes. They are still a decent brake in the right application.
 
but when you rip the e-brake youre actuating the actual drum brake on cars without rear disc. Rear disc hondas ive seen have a mechanical drum brake inside the hub of the disc that the e-brake is linked to so i kinda question the brake force determination based on e-brake force
 
^ so all 8th model trims have a drum inside the hub (unless they already have rear drum brakes)?
 
ive yet to take apart the rear disc on a civic, but the accords and crvs ive worked on both have the mechanical drum, so i dont see why not for the 8th

skip to around 2:10 to see the rotor come off exposing the e brake mechanism, ignore the guy drilling out the rotor screws
 
420Coupe, since youve got extensive build knowledge on the r18, whats the best one could hope for with a NA r18 setup and just how much would it likely cost?
 
ethlar said:
420Coupe, since youve got extensive build knowledge on the r18, whats the best one could hope for with a NA r18 setup and just how much would it likely cost?
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Due to the built in cam guides it is quite limited, i would say maybe a MAX of about 250 whp even with maxed out cam. Price wise ill break it down here, although everything should be relatively cheaper than im posting as i was the first and they raped me on price!

~$1000 Pistons + rods CP Pistons
~$1100 Sleeves (optional) Golden Eagle
~$500 P&P head (4 Piston)
~$1200 Valve train (Springs, Retainers, valves) Ferrea *this should be picked before sending head to 4Piston so they can seat the valves properly
~$1300 Transmission (LSD(helical or metal plate) + FD(4.687 or 4.928) MFactory
~$850 Intake Manifold, Down Pipe, Cat Delete, (Gato Performance)
~$650 Injectors ID 1000's
~$500 FlashPro
~$500 Clutch (Clutch Masters Stage 4) - awaiting till CC releases a Stage 4 for our cars
~$400 Tune (Drunkinstooper(Josh) or CMB) <--- ONLYYYYYY for the R18
~$250 DW-300 or Walbro 255 with fuel return
~$150 ARP Head studs

This is just a quick rough list off the top of my head.
 
that much of an injector for a NA build? Any info on where r18 guys were breaking their tranny (power # wise)? I was thinking there were some low/mid 200hp guys on turbo with the stock tranny...doing ok, but I could be wrong.
 
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