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Big bass build

rcarroll1985

New Member
3
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So, after selling my suv, I removed all my audio and am considering installing in my 13 civic DX. No premium sound or stock sub. Current system consist of:
2- Tezla 1.5k 12’s
4- Crescendo UN6.5’s
2- Crescendo FT-1 tweeters

Crescendo bass clef 6k
Crescendo Symphony S4
XS power D7500 AGM Battery

so my question is, after much research, I see the alternator is ECU regulated; will my extra battery be ‘ok’ to install this system, and is there a bypass for the alt throttle control? I’ve read a few threads on the subject, but my understanding is that a HO alt still has to bypass the alt control, and I’m trying to keep from dropping another few hundred on an alt.
 

webby

Administrator
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Toys For Tots
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I haven’t seen anyone really come up with a “solution” to it. I know there are people with aftermarket speakers and amps, but I don’t know that I’ve seen anyone resolve the way the oem alternator works.
 

rcarroll1985

New Member
3
0
I haven’t seen anyone really come up with a “solution” to it. I know there are people with aftermarket speakers and amps, but I don’t know that I’ve seen anyone resolve the way the oem alternator works.
I appreciate the reply. My main concern is if the stock alt with the battery could cause more damage. I’m considering going with 8’s instead of my 12’s, wire up to 4ohms (roughly 1800w) so that the electrical isn’t taxed so hard. I had this system on a stock alt of an xterra with an output of roughly 90-100amps and it held up well. I’d rather the 12’s, but that’s my option. I’m new to the civic world, but not a noob with audio.
 

freggie

Well-Known Member
Don't know what model or year you have but Hondata Flashpro will be able to disable the charging restriction

You can try going agm battery so it can "charge" faster, I chose whatever was cheapest from all the autoparts stores. One of the problems with the charging system is cruising speeds with low rpms and low throttle input the alternator switches to 12.6 instead of 14v. This causes early battery failures, so switching to agm with low internal resistance may help.
 

Seedub05

Member
2
0
I just went through this a couple of months ago with my 2015 coupe. It does have premium sound, but if you're able to find the speaker diagram you can tap into the rear speakers and add subs that way. I was able to hook into the premium sound subwoofer signal preamp and converted them to RCA's.

I'm pushing a 2500 watt mono amp and 2 12" Infinity subs. Lights dim slightly only if I'm really bumping. I still have the stock battery, and haven't done the Big 3 yet. I'm sure I can completely eliminate the dimming with a proper battery and the big 3. If not, I'll add another battery in the trunk.
 

Seedub05

Member
2
0
I appreciate the reply. My main concern is if the stock alt with the battery could cause more damage. I’m considering going with 8’s instead of my 12’s, wire up to 4ohms (roughly 1800w) so that the electrical isn’t taxed so hard. I had this system on a stock alt of an xterra with an output of roughly 90-100amps and it held up well. I’d rather the 12’s, but that’s my option. I’m new to the civic world, but not a noob with audio.
Oh, and the subs are wired in 4 ohm too to reduce the electrical load.
 

rcarroll1985

New Member
3
0
I just went through this a couple of months ago with my 2015 coupe. It does have premium sound, but if you're able to find the speaker diagram you can tap into the rear speakers and add subs that way. I was able to hook into the premium sound subwoofer signal preamp and converted them to RCA's.

I'm pushing a 2500 watt mono amp and 2 12" Infinity subs. Lights dim slightly only if I'm really bumping. I still have the stock battery, and haven't done the Big 3 yet. I'm sure I can completely eliminate the dimming with a proper battery and the big 3. If not, I'll add another battery in the trunk.
I’m finding that if the radio doesn’t say ‘premium’ or there is no sub in the rear deck, that my model isn’t premium sound. Is that correct? Ultimately, I’ll swap out the head unit with a good HU, but I’m not looking to sink almost 150-200 for interface and dash kit at the moment. So as long as it isn’t premium sound, I’ll just use a LOC on the rear speakers and do the subs for now. Planned to add mids/highs after I swap the head unit to get a cleaner signal and add my DSP.
 
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