Changing manual transmission fluid

Bruce Bartlow

Bruce Bartlow

Late apex everything
1,599
865
Sacramento, CA
Vehicle Model
Rented a C8 for a week (what a monster) ended up buying a TLX. Beautiful car inside and out. Killer stereo. Handles better than it should given its weight. Not my dream car, just a Honda Accord in a tux.
Body Style
Sedan with the backseat of a two-seater
I just changed my OEM tranny oil over to Synthetic Sychromesh by Amsoil. (A full report to follow... but a little less notchy... which didn't bother me anyway) Officially it takes about 1.9 quarts (?) although I put in the full 2.0 and watched a bit run out. Question, wouldn't the extra oil -- if we put the bolt back in fast enough -- be good for that top gear... or would the extra oil theoretically add too much pressure in the case?

By the way, if you change your own engine oil you can probably change the tranny oil. But you'll need to buy 4 feet of clear plastic tube about 3/4" in diameter (it just fits INSIDE the hole, and you must hold the tubing in there) along with a funnel and a friend to pour the oil while you're down under. Of course, don't forget the 17mm wrench and a 3/8 drive. If you have decent access, it's an easy 15 minute job.
 
Bruce Bartlow said:
I just changed my OEM tranny oil over to Synthetic Sychromesh by Amsoil. (A full report to follow... but a little less notchy... which didn't bother me anyway) Officially it takes about 1.9 quarts (?) although I put in the full 2.0 and watched a bit run out. Question, wouldn't the extra oil -- if we put the bolt back in fast enough -- be good for that top gear... or would the extra oil theoretically add too much pressure in the case?

By the way, if you change your own engine oil you can probably change the tranny oil. But you'll need to buy 4 feet of clear plastic tube about 3/4" in diameter (it just fits INSIDE the hole, and you must hold the tubing in there) along with a funnel and a friend to pour the oil while you're down under. Of course, don't forget the 17mm wrench and a 3/8 drive. If you have decent access, it's an easy 15 minute job.
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Wouldn't hurt to use a torque wrench, mostly because ppl want to be sure it's on tight and are prone to OVER tightening things....... just an FYI.....
 
Monk said:
Wouldn't hurt to use a torque wrench, mostly because ppl want to be sure it's on tight and are prone to OVER tightening things....... just an FYI.....
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Yes, overtightening.... like the factory gorilla who put it on in the first place. Just so ppl know, it took everything I had to get it off. (Yeah, I know... wuss) But it was important to get in the the right position to employ the necessary leverage.
 
I would not put more fluid in than what's documented for the car. If it's like over filling engine oil, it could froth up
 
a lot of people like amsoil trans fluid, so they just switch it up
 
I don't have a manual handy, but I believe it's 3yrs/30k miles. It has a section on fluid changes in the manual
 
webby said:
a lot of people like amsoil trans fluid, so they just switch it up
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Amsoil or any synthetic is also good in differentials.......... (which brings to mind, does a frt wheel drive use the same sort of differential?).
 
well the si has a limited slip differential in it from the factory.
 
webby said:
I don't have a manual handy, but I believe it's 3yrs/30k miles. It has a section on fluid changes in the manual
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Formula for a happy K series transmission: Fresh Honda MTF at 15k miles, or every other oil change. Its not hard to change, and the fluid is about $6/qt

Amsoil may reduce "notchyness" but so does a fresh fill of Honda MTF.

I've got a good theory that the Amsoil will not protect the bearings in your transmission as well as the Honda MTF.

I ran amsoil exclusively for about 60k miles (honda mtf -> amsoil->amsoil) at about 20k intervals. Tranmission got progressively louder over time. Rebuilt at 80k and EVERY bearing in the transmission was toast. Done. On the verge of falling apart. There was abnormally high amounts of metal "sludge" in the case. No other parts (synchros, gears) showed abnormal wear. My theory and the mechanics theory was that the amsoil can not protect as well as Honda MTF.

Caveat Emptor, Amsoil may not be your best bet.

TLDR: Fresh MTF feels good because its fresh MTF, regardless of brand. Stick with Honda because it is formulated to protect our finicky transmissions.

OP: you can't over fill your transmission, it will spill out of the fill bolt. Full is to the top of the fill bolt.
 
mikey6p said:
Formula for a happy K series transmission: Fresh Honda MTF at 15k miles, or every other oil change. Its not hard to change, and the fluid is about $6/qt

Amsoil may reduce "notchyness" but so does a fresh fill of Honda MTF.

I've got a good theory that the Amsoil will not protect the bearings in your transmission as well as the Honda MTF.

I ran amsoil exclusively for about 60k miles (honda mtf -> amsoil->amsoil) at about 20k intervals. Tranmission got progressively louder over time. Rebuilt at 80k and EVERY bearing in the transmission was toast. Done. On the verge of falling apart. There was abnormally high amounts of metal "sludge" in the case. No other parts (synchros, gears) showed abnormal wear. My theory and the mechanics theory was that the amsoil can not protect as well as Honda MTF.

Caveat Emptor, Amsoil may not be your best bet.

TLDR: Fresh MTF feels good because its fresh MTF, regardless of brand. Stick with Honda because it is formulated to protect our finicky transmissions.

OP: you can't over fill your transmission, it will spill out of the fill bolt. Full is to the top of the fill bolt.
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Good information mikey.
What's TLDR and OP stand for?
 
12civic5speed said:
why did you change the fluid already?
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I'm just a maniac when it comes to changing oil, whether it's engine or tranny. I have millions of miles on Hondas and I attribute that first and foremost to changing oil -- a lot. Plus, I didn't know how good the factory fill was... so went with a synthetic I trusted, Amsoil. I tend to experiment with different lubricants (next is LubriMoly) then have the used oil analyzed to see how the oil held up, and whether the engine incurred more or less wear with that oil versus others. For example, Mobil One is a very mediocre lubricant (although cheap when on sale) ... while the Mobil 1 "extended performance" ($10 +/qt) is one of the best I've tested in the last 2 years. The wear characteristics are like night and day. For a good website on oil, check out bobistheoilguy.com Lastly, Amsoil's Signature Series is consistently is among the best oils you will find anywhere. Mechanics have been amazed when the see the inside of my engines because they're so clean. Most oils are good enough as long as you change them often enough... but if you want one of the best, check out: www.amsoil.com to find a local dealer... or order off their website. Must join to be a dealer, however. It's a reputable MLM... but there's no pressure. You'd probably use this oil here: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/alm.aspx or a 0W-30 like me.
 
Care to start a new thread with your previous oil analysis scans? I'd be interested to see your results with various brands. Did you use the same brand of filter with all of the changes, or?
 
Speaking of oil filters these are the best for after market filters IMO, Though the reference numbers are for my MC. ​
This is coming from my MC Forum, and they are oil and filter nuts to the tenth degree.​
A lot about what the insides are made of and the bypass valve, etc.​
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Oil filter : Purolator Pure One PL14610 ; Mobil-1 M1-110​
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