Clutch/Transmission Issues!

Well either ecu is done or your have a broken wire. Checked to make sure all those sensors are plugged in ? Is it possible that there's an inline connector between those sensors and the ecu that might be loose?

Might be making this up but I thought I read that limp mode somehow locks out 5 and 6 gear, or did I just make that up?

I feel like I'm obsessing over this 5 volt reference too much.but the last code is a 5 volt sensor reference code. Man would I love to look at your car to prove myself right.
 
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JAMES JANZEN said:
Well either ecu is done or your have a broken wire. Checked to make sure all those sensors are plugged in ? Is it possible that there's an inline connector between those sensors and the ecu that might be loose?

Might be making this up but I thought I read that limp mode somehow locks out 5 and 6 gear, or did I just make that up?

I feel like I'm obsessing over this 5 volt reference too much.but the last code is a 5 volt sensor reference code. Man would I love to look at your car to prove myself right.
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Yeah others have talked about issues in 5th/6th in limp mode.
http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/2...very-cel-imaginable-lit-up.13550/#post-355945
 
That's the issue, I'm not locked out of 5/6...I'm locked out of 1-4 LOL. I have flashpro and have it setup properly for the lightweight flywheel, so that's not my issue. I'm not seeing any sensors unplugged in my engine bay, nor do I see any shorts in a wire. However, I'm not electronically inclined. As for my ecu...how does that just randomly BREAK while driving. I'm so torn and need my car back on the road. I'd tow it to the dealer at this rate, but with the flashpro, aftermarket clutch and 4bar map sensor, they probably wouldn't even touch the damn thing.
 
Yeah. I wouldn't touch it if it came into my work. Being on flat rate it's hard to make money on a vehicle like that. Electrical shorts or opens aren't always easy to find. It sounds like you may need to bring your car back to the place that did the work.
 
JAMES JANZEN said:
Yeah. I wouldn't touch it if it came into my work. Being on flat rate it's hard to make money on a vehicle like that. Electrical shorts or opens aren't always easy to find. It sounds like you may need to bring your car back to the place that did the work.
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Yeah, I've been trying to arrange transportation to get back to their shop and they keep blowing me off and ignoring me. So I'm kind of left here with no idea what to do.
 
TechJohnson said:
keep blowing me off and ignoring me
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You stay on the phone until they get a solid date/time for the pickup. No excuses. "So what time will you be here to pick up the vehicle?"

If they won't pick it up, you tell them they'll be receiving the bill from the dealership repairs. Talk to a lawyer, and keep records of all conversations between one another.
 
I really think removing the transmission might be a waste of time .
 
JAMES JANZEN said:
I really think removing the transmission might be a waste of time .
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How so? I'm still having a mechnical issue outside of the car not starting.

When the car is in neutral, I can NOT move the car forward or backwards UNLESS the clutch is pressed in.

If I'm in Reverse, I cannot move the car backwards with, or without clutch pressed in.
Same can be said about 5 and 6.

I can't even physically get the car into gear 1,2,3,4.

How could that even relate to just electrical issue even if the car is off. That doesn't make sense to me. lol
 
what's the clutch reservoir fluid level look like? Filled up?
 
webby said:
what's the clutch reservoir fluid level look like? Filled up?
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image1-e1530564162578.jpeg

Could definitely use some fluid, but would that even matter if my clutch isn't pressed? I should still be able to get in gear, no? Also, this shouldn't be a factor since the issue happened while i was just cruising in 6th gear, didn't touch my clutch. lol
 
I wanted to see if it was filled, or if you had a leak/they didn't fill it properly. Tons of videos on youtube where people can't get it into gear. They literally just filled their reservoir (it was empty), and it was "fixed". Your trans needs dropped to inspect the clutch/trans. I mean there are just too many things it could be. A clutch position sensor could be bad, not allowing it to start, but you still have essentially a locked transmission. That needs addressed by them. I'm guessing that you're being too nice, and they're just going to take advantage of that by stringing you along endlessly.

webby said:
You stay on the phone until they get a solid date/time for the pickup. No excuses. "So what time will you be here to pick up the vehicle?"

If they won't pick it up, you tell them they'll be receiving the bill from the dealership repairs. Talk to a lawyer, and keep records of all conversations between one another.
Click to expand...
 
webby said:
I wanted to see if it was filled, or if you had a leak/they didn't fill it properly. Tons of videos on youtube where people can't get it into gear. They literally just filled their reservoir (it was empty), and it was "fixed". Your trans needs dropped to inspect the clutch/trans. I mean there are just too many things it could be. A clutch position sensor could be bad, not allowing it to start, but you still have essentially a locked transmission. That needs addressed by them. I'm guessing that you're being too nice, and they're just going to take advantage of that by stringing you along endlessly.
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Yeah, unfortunately, I try to be nice. It's who I am...but I think it's time to start getting firm so they understand I'm not messing around anymore. I don't care if I lose a bridge at this point. My car has been out of commission for weeks and I NEED it on the road for work and family. This unacceptable.
 
TechJohnson said:
How so? I'm still having a mechnical issue outside of the car not starting.

When the car is in neutral, I can NOT move the car forward or backwards UNLESS the clutch is pressed in.

If I'm in Reverse, I cannot move the car backwards with, or without clutch pressed in.
Same can be said about 5 and 6.

I can't even physically get the car into gear 1,2,3,4.

How could that even relate to just electrical issue even if the car is off. That doesn't make sense to me. lol
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If Honda can lock 5 and 6 out for limp mode on a manual trans I wouldn't rule out electrical proble. For your situation .I have no idea how they do 5-6 lockout, haven't looked into it .but the fact that you have a code specifically for 5 volt reference with a bunch of 5 volt sensor codes makes me think it's electrical .I could be very wrong but I'm also not able to look at the car .I havent diagnosed over a forum in a few years. It's fun.

I can't wait to find out if in right or horribly wrong . If I had this car I had this car in my bay ( not being a Honda tech ) first thing I would do is check codes and go from there .first code I would be focusing on is the 5 volt reference. That would cause a no start as well. But hey. I'm just a Chrysler tech .
 
The fact he can’t get into gears with/without the clutch with the car off means there are other issues though besides electronics.
 
Most likely . Think I wrote before that there could be two different issues here.

But I would figure out if there was an electrical issue before removing the trans.
 
Check to see if there is a loose cable from alternator to chassis and battery negative to chassis.
Make sure the TPS sensor and MAF sensor cable are connected correctly.

Codes:
P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor
P0222 - Throttle Position Sensor
P0113 - IAT Sensor Circuit High Input Problem
P2122 - Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0102 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0641 - Sensor Reference Voltage 'A' Malfunction (Usually at ECU/ECM)

There is nothing regarding a Crank Position Sensor out of range or misfire detection in those codes. It sounds like sensors not plugged in correctly or a grounding issue. Good time to check to see if any fuses are blown as well.
 
fergy016 said:
Check to see if there is a loose cable from alternator to chassis and battery negative to chassis.
Make sure the TPS sensor and MAF sensor cable are connected correctly.

Codes:
P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor
P0222 - Throttle Position Sensor
P0113 - IAT Sensor Circuit High Input Problem
P2122 - Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0102 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0641 - Sensor Reference Voltage 'A' Malfunction (Usually at ECU/ECM)

There is nothing regarding a Crank Position Sensor out of range or misfire detection in those codes. It sounds like sensors not plugged in correctly or a grounding issue. Good time to check to see if any fuses are blown as well.
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Appreciate it. I'll check all these tomorrow.

webby said:
@TechJohnson updates?
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I've been out of town the last few days, haven't been around the car. Going to do some checking tomorrow.

However, it did dawn on me. If I look at all the sensors and grounds and still no luck, would I be able to plug in the flashpro and datalog the startup to see if there are any issues? Not sure if that's possible, but it crossed my mind.
 
Quick update:

The only two grounds I'm seeing is the ground that's tucked right behind the battery touching the chassis to the ground and by the torque mount area. I'm not sure I see any other grounds - some guidance there would definitely be helpful. Maybe a diagram of some sort.

As for the gearing, since I was only able to successfully get the car in a rolling neutral with the clutch pressed in while in neutral, i decided to rock the car until it locks a few times. Afterward, I was then able to get the car into 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6...no longer reverse. It was also pretty notchy getting into those gears. However, the car still ONLY moves when the clutch is pressed while in neutral. Could this be a case of bad alignment? Throwout bearing? Pilot bearing? Not entirely sure which would be the case. If so...why would it all of a sudden get thrown out of wack after driving the car for 3 hours after the install? Strange to me. Maybe the rear mount had something to do with this.
 
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