Does your Si burn oil?

Does your Si burn oil?

  • Yes

    Votes: 44 54.3%
  • No

    Votes: 37 45.7%

  • Total voters
    81
You'd have to put the car back to stock if you wanted them to do oil consumption testing. I'm sure as soon as they saw the turbo they'd say your motor/trans warranty was out the window. I'm sure you don't want to deal with that though.
 
Webby or anyone, I've noticed my car burns oil lately, and just recently found out my VIN falls under the service bulletin, 2013 civic si with 28k miles. I'm running PRL stage 2 turbo for 8000 miles. What would you guys do? I've read they should replace the rings and pistons if the engine was never touched internally?
@Feral I'm pretty sure the service bulletin applies to early 2012 Civic Si's only.
Honda changed the rings after that because of the oil burning problem so the bulletin only applied t vehicles with the "old" style rings.
Who told you that your vehicle falls under the service bulletin? You said you have a 2013.
 
I heard the 2013 engine was made in 2012, and my VIN matched the numbers. I'm thinking my turbo just needs a rebuild, but if not I'll probably upgrade to the Wiseco pistons by Skunk2 and the Skunk2 K24A/Z Alpha series connecting rods.

Someone suggested I trade my 2013 for a 2015. I only owe 3k more on my 2013.
 
I have no clue. Regardless, I think you'll have them void your warranty if you go in and talk about oil loss with the turbo. I also can't see your turbo needing rebuilt after 8k miles. Why would you think the turbo needs rebuilt? How much oil are you losing/over how many miles?
 
I got the turbo off another member, the turbo actually has 38,000 miles on it. I was under the impression the turbo was going to be rebuilt before being put in the car, that's my error though. With 5 Liters of Torco added I'm about 1/4 left of oil between the two dots by the time 3,000 miles hits.
 
So you're losing about 3/4ths of a quart in like 3k miles. I wouldn't be surprised if other turbo owners are similar to that honestly. Maybe worth starting a thread asking for turbo owners or even sc owners input. @323 or @Sleepingpanda - either of you use oil at all with your supercharger setups?
 
So you're losing about 3/4ths of a quart in like 3k miles. I wouldn't be surprised if other turbo owners are similar to that honestly. Maybe worth starting a thread asking for turbo owners or even sc owners input. @323 or @Sleepingpanda - either of you use oil at all with your supercharger setups?
Our superchargers use coolant instead of oil, so no direct issues. I did keep an eye on everything including the oil for the first few weeks after the install and there were never any problems... Gonna have to poll some other turbo users.
The only one I can think of off hand is @Six_speed_demon
 
I just didn't know if you'd have some extra oil usage from the extra strain on the motor.
 
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Our superchargers use coolant instead of oil, so no direct issues. I did keep an eye on everything including the oil for the first few weeks after the install and there were never any problems... Gonna have to poll some other turbo users.
The only one I can think of off hand is @Six_speed_demon

I am betting some of the turbo guys do, but I am suprised a lot of NA guys are having this issue? Never have had a problem with it
 
I've talked to six_speed_demon, he has noticed his Precision turbo losing oil underneath. I've been told it's blow by and it's normal, i say no lol.
 
Do you have a catch can? If not. Get one. I guarantee you're getting a lot more blow by. Engine case vapors under boost are just something our engines pcv system wasn't built for.

Also is your oil drain tapped into your pan? Or is it routed into some fitting that replaces the drain plug?
 
Thanks for the heads up :) both done. My car was smoking like hell when the oil pan wasn't tapped, PRL motorsports routed it through the oil drain plug... tapped and smoking stopped. I'm also running open breather for the PCV to catch can. Both areas breath to catch can.
 
I'm going thru tons of oil. I'm talking 2-3 courts every 2-3000 miles. Apparently something is wrong with mine.
 
I'm going thru tons of oil. I'm talking 2-3 courts every 2-3000 miles. Apparently something is wrong with mine.
Well, you have the right year car for it..... Now you need to check your VIN# to see if it's on the list for getting your rings replaced.

**** I copied the following from post #one of this thread.****

Service Bulletin 12-069, October 23, 2012

Excessive Engine Oil Consumption

Applies To:
2012 Civic Si 2-Door – From VIN 2HGFG4A...H700001 thru 2HGFG4A...H703398
2012 Civic Si 4-Door – From VIN 2HGFB6E...H700001 thru 2HGFB6E...H703802

SYMPTOM
The engine oil level is low on the dipstick, and the low
oil pressure indicator may come on.

CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace all the engine pistons and the piston rings.
 
Here is my story:

I bought my 2012 Civic Si in November 2011 (Canada) VIN 2HGFB6E...H200###. I first noticed an issue with oil useage when I got back from a highway trip and checked the oil for the first time at 4500km, the oil was at the bottom dipstick mark I topped it off (1L) hoping this was not going to be a recurring issue, and that it was just breaking in still. This was not the case and my dealership eventually started an oil consumption test. The consumption test took a while because of an issue with blown oil seals in the middle of the tests, them F'ing up the readings and them starting over again. But eventually it was completed and the results were sent to Honda Canada.

By my calculation it was consuming 0.6L/1500km, so it was within acceptable range(for them), being below the allowable 1L/1500km.

About 2 weeks later I got a call from the Honda Service Adviser informing me the results were in from Honda Canada and because it falls within the acceptable allowance, no further action required. The adviser told me if I had any questions to go the the Honda Canada website and contact them. I told the adviser I was not impressed and that they were not taking me seriously, and felt they were just dismissing my concerns as irrelevant.

I called Honda Canada, and talked to a rep who again said there is no issue with my car, and it's oil consumption was acceptable. I got mad, ranted at him for about 5 minutes and asked for further investigation, he then asked if the Service Manager had sent this to tech yet? I had no idea what this meant and said no, the rep suggested he would call the Service Manager and see what else could be done, and call me back right away. He called me back within half an hour, and said the Service Manager will now send my issue to tech for review, and he then mentions that my VIN number is on the list for piston and ring replacement. I was flabbergasted that they would keep giving me the run-around, and then finally admit that my car was on this list.

Within 2 weeks the dealer calls me, still not the Service Manager but a Customer Service rep, and says that they will perform the TSB# A-10-12 and replace the rings and pistons, I was hesitant at first but he assured me they have done this on V6's before, but not on an Si.

I agreed, and at the beginning of Feb. 2015 they performed the TSB. The rep at the dealer was nice in that he kept me up to date after they pulled the engine apart, and informed of the condition of the cylinder walls along with pictures, I had asked him for pictures of the pistons and head after it was removed.

Currently I am still in the break in period (he suggested 6000km) I have 3000 km on it and have been slowly pushing it harder after it hit 2000km, but still pacing myself. The oil is still at top of dipstick, has not budged and clean. 1500 km of this was highway driving but before this my past 4 highway trips of this distance always used more than half a litre.

At this time I am satisfied with the results, as all I wanted was realistic oil consumption. As I do understand with a high compression engine like this, and the thin oil they use, 0W20 there may be some consumption.
 
All that being said, no noticeable oil consumption should be expected on new cars, even with the 0W20......... The purpose of the 20 is to protect it from contact with the parts, and that is most cars, even older ones(maybe 30 was the broadsword), but the newer engines have advanced to the point that 20 is enough........... Now the new age has come, with the how-too's of stopping the number one issue of engine wear, which is starting one cold, that's been sitting long enough for the oil to drain from the top, and they found that the "0" will travel fast to the dry parts and lube them quicker so as not to let the parts run on dry as long as they did with 10W30........
Now that leaves the nagging thought in the back of our minds..... "O" ???? .......... Well as fast as the 0 get's to the moving parts, it also starts it's morphing from 0 to 20, and once it's 20, "O" is no longer O, the oil is now 20, it's only O when cold.

So you're getting the thicker oil with in min.'s of warm up. It's a new world, and I'm an old dog, and have done the research to learn the new tricks.
 
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