Eibach Front Sway Bar and Full Sway Bar Kits Released!

there's a DIY on anther forum where the guy actually removed the bar entirely (because he installed 8th gen suspension up front, which doesn't have the endlinks) so he removed the bar and the endlinks from the 9th, so obviously it won't be AS difficult as his due to the fact that he removed the whole setup... the support required, plus removin and reinstalling looked pretty tough... i'm scurred : (
 
GRRRRRRR....well, I have some bad news. Eibach reneged on releasing the front bar. Same thing happened with the 8th Gen Civic as well. Basically, at this point it looks like it will be at least another month! We are very sorry for this! In any case, anyone who places an order for a front bar will be immediately put on the pre-order list, and of course we'll ship the bars out the minute we get them.
 
PRO Civic said:
GRRRRRRR....well, I have some bad news. Eibach reneged on releasing the front bar. Same thing happened with the 8th Gen Civic as well. Basically, at this point it looks like it will be at least another month! We are very sorry for this! In any case, anyone who places an order for a front bar will be immediately put on the pre-order list, and of course we'll ship the bars out the minute we get them.
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glad i only ordered the rear :)
 
PRO Civic said:
GRRRRRRR....well, I have some bad news. Eibach reneged on releasing the front bar. Same thing happened with the 8th Gen Civic as well. Basically, at this point it looks like it will be at least another month! We are very sorry for this! In any case, anyone who places an order for a front bar will be immediately put on the pre-order list, and of course we'll ship the bars out the minute we get them.
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What went wrong?
 
Stephey said:
The adjustments aren't for adjusting "body roll", they are to adjust the car's balance of understeer vs oversteer.
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Can you tell me what/why the diff' between OE & Ei numbers from front to back? They aren't the same ratio?

It looks like there is a difference as opposed to being the same.

OE-F 18mm / Ei-F 24mm(6 mm diff)

OE-R 15mm / Ei-R 19mm(4mm diff)
 
Monk said:
Can you tell me what/why the diff' between OE & Ei numbers from front to back? They aren't the same ratio?

It looks like there is a difference as opposed to being the same.

OE-F 18mm / Ei-F 24mm(6 mm diff)

OE-R 15mm / Ei-R 19mm(4mm diff)
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Monk, I think that's a question for Eibach.
 
The diameter of the bar isn't the important number, it's the effective rate. The shape/material and the distance between body mount - end link will affect this so just using diameter doesn't tell the whole story.

The posted data is that the rear bar is P1 = 36 N/mm (205 lbs/in) +409%, P2 = 45 N/mm (257 lbs/in) +514% which equates to the new bar is 4 to 5 times stiffer than OE. The front on the other hand is P1 = 26 N/mm (148 lbs/in) +264 %, P2 = 30 N/mm (171 lbs/in) +305 % which is 2.6 to 3 times stiffer.

So from this data it appears you could set the rear on the inner hole and the front on the outer to get closer to the original understeer balance (400% rear 300% front over stock) or move the rear to the inner and front to the outer (500% rear 264% front) to remove as much of the understeer as these will allow.

For something like auto crossing, you should finish braking -before- you turn in and then power out of the turn to use the FWD to help pull the car where you want it to go. Driving like this, you want to try to make the rear tires do a lot more of the cornering work (the front tires have the extra traction load of putting power down plus the weight shifts rearward on acceleration) and is why you want to use a stiff rear bar and a soft front one. This is a less effective way to get around turns as the corner speed increases as you will be in a higher gear with less acceleration. If the car has a hotter motor, it is even more important to take some of the corner load off the front tires. That said, this type setup might work badly on high speed corners where you hold a steady throttle and just "drive smoothly through it" as the car will tend to oversteer which would not be good..

The problem with setting up a car like this for the street becomes, if you go into a corner too hot and are braking too far into the turn (which happens if you don't know the road really well), the rear tires don't have enough down force (braking transfers weight to the front tires) to gave decent grip, the rear tires then lose traction and the back end of the car comes around. This is NOT the same as oversteer with a rear wheel drive car where you can give the car opposite lock steering and power out of it. Doing that will result in a nasty wreck (been there done that). The only way to save it at this point is to apply LOTS of power and hope there is enough front traction to get through the turn. That is a very unnatural reaction and this explains why for safety some understeer on a front wheel drive car is a good idea for most people. There are a lot of compromises that must be made finding the right balance.
 
Stephey...... You're Tha' Man........ I'm always working on braking before the turn and accl' out........... I'll set mine for "rear inner / Frt outer".......... Thanks for the Great info.
 
JonnyRotten said:
What went wrong?
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Eibach just jumped the gun on announcing this product was ready to ship. Although the design is done, the first batch still needs to be manufactured. We're sorry that we relayed this incorrect information to everyone! I'm hopeful that the front bars will be in our hands within a month or so.
 
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