Getting ready to order my ct-e stage 2 supercharger this week! Only questions i have are is it ok to run my catted downpipe with this supercharger? Also im looking at getting an 8th gen exedy stage one clutch. Can i run that with the stock 9th gen flywheel? And lastly im going to run a boost gauge but should i run a wideband gauge as well? Want to keep as few gauges as possible as i cant think of a good/clean place or way to mount them. Thanks a lot guys!
Few questions before ordering my CT supercharger
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PainIs4ThaWeak
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Can only definitively answer a couple of your questions:
- Usage of OEM flywheel: Yes, most clutches can be used on the OEM flywheel. The Exedy Stg1 is no different.
- Technically, you don't have to run ANY gauges. If the belt slips, you'll see it in a datalog (if you use FlashPro, or other datalogging method). IMHO, no real need to have a boost gauge (even though I currently have one, I nearly never find myself checking it. Negligence? Maybe. But I feel I pay enough attention to what is going on with my car/tune, and check belt tension frequently enough that I feel a gauge is not imperative.) Same can ALMOST be said about A/F, though this value is ever changing, and you may not be able to detect with human senses if the A/F is off from ideal. (Which reminds me, I need to replace the O2 sensor connected to my A/F gauge, lol)
- Usage of OEM flywheel: Yes, most clutches can be used on the OEM flywheel. The Exedy Stg1 is no different.
- Technically, you don't have to run ANY gauges. If the belt slips, you'll see it in a datalog (if you use FlashPro, or other datalogging method). IMHO, no real need to have a boost gauge (even though I currently have one, I nearly never find myself checking it. Negligence? Maybe. But I feel I pay enough attention to what is going on with my car/tune, and check belt tension frequently enough that I feel a gauge is not imperative.) Same can ALMOST be said about A/F, though this value is ever changing, and you may not be able to detect with human senses if the A/F is off from ideal. (Which reminds me, I need to replace the O2 sensor connected to my A/F gauge, lol)
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How do you have your gauges mounted?
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@Sleepingpanda do you have any gauges right now? I don't see any in your 1st post of the build
PainIs4ThaWeak
Well-Known Member
I have an 8th gen, so I've been using Exelerate's pod design.
View attachment 34335
I am running my RV6 catted DP for almost 9 months and no issues. Its better to have a metallic cat as the ceramic ones are more prone to melting. Having said that, if you intend to do lots of hard boosting at track days and the likes of, I would suggest going catless.
I have an email for Exedy stating you CAN use the OEM flywheel with the 8th gen stage 1 kit. However other 8th gen kits require the use of the 8th gen flywheel. I would bet you need the 8th gen flywheel too.
I have both gauges, AEM WB and Boost. I don't understand why people say these are not necessary. If you have large year round temperature shifts wherever you live or if you want to have piece of mine that things like your MAF, Injectors and fuel pump are always working correctly - get a wideband. For the boost gauge, it will let you know if 1- you have an idler pulley problem like I did - dropped 2lbs of boost, so I knew something was up and next day the pulley blew up. It will also give you an early indication if you have any bypass valve issues, being either stuck open or closed (no boost or constant boost). Unless you want to drive with you FP and review logs all the time, get gauges.
Here is a pic of mine
I am running my RV6 catted DP for almost 9 months and no issues. Its better to have a metallic cat as the ceramic ones are more prone to melting. Having said that, if you intend to do lots of hard boosting at track days and the likes of, I would suggest going catless.
I have an email for Exedy stating you CAN use the OEM flywheel with the 8th gen stage 1 kit. However other 8th gen kits require the use of the 8th gen flywheel. I would bet you need the 8th gen flywheel too.
I have both gauges, AEM WB and Boost. I don't understand why people say these are not necessary. If you have large year round temperature shifts wherever you live or if you want to have piece of mine that things like your MAF, Injectors and fuel pump are always working correctly - get a wideband. For the boost gauge, it will let you know if 1- you have an idler pulley problem like I did - dropped 2lbs of boost, so I knew something was up and next day the pulley blew up. It will also give you an early indication if you have any bypass valve issues, being either stuck open or closed (no boost or constant boost). Unless you want to drive with you FP and review logs all the time, get gauges.
Here is a pic of mine
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PainIs4ThaWeak
Well-Known Member
Do you guys really tune S/c's based on MAF? @VitViper
Vitaliy has never recommended this on the 8thgens.
Also, I must be doing something wrong by not paying attention to my gauges on a 120k mile old vehicle that has been supercharged for the last 60k of its life. Surely, with trips across america, and being a complete hoon, it surely would've "blown up" by now, right? :|
Vitaliy has never recommended this on the 8thgens.
Also, I must be doing something wrong by not paying attention to my gauges on a 120k mile old vehicle that has been supercharged for the last 60k of its life. Surely, with trips across america, and being a complete hoon, it surely would've "blown up" by now, right? :|
I'm pretty sure they are all hydrid tunes these days. Also, tuned by Vit. Not sure why your quoting blown up. I was not referring to you or the motor or the charger itself, just my unfortunate experience with the known issues with CT's idler pulleys.
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PainIs4ThaWeak
Well-Known Member
Just for SA...
Taken from Vit's website:
"Every tune comes with a limited lifetime guarantee for the vehicle and the original purchaser of the tune. What this means is that even after we are finished tuning, as long as the vehicle modifications do not change, you will never have to purchase a retune if the tune ever needs a touch up either due to weather variances or any other anomolies (for example, the oxygen sensor was faulty and the fueling needs a touch up after a new sensor is installed). This does not mean you are subject to free retunes if you change the modifications on the vehicle. The retune fee for mod changes is very competively priced as it stands!"
I know the initial idler pulley bearings suck. I've literally disintegrated the bearings in a couple myself. However, CT-E's third supplier of bearings that have been in circulation for a little over a year and a half now have been holding up. (For me, as well as others on the 8th forums.)
I mentioned the hypothetical case of "blow[ing] up" because, knock on wood, I've had no issues with being boosted. Vit's fpcal tables take into account for weather/pressure and failure conditions, same as the OEM tables.
Taken from Vit's website:
"Every tune comes with a limited lifetime guarantee for the vehicle and the original purchaser of the tune. What this means is that even after we are finished tuning, as long as the vehicle modifications do not change, you will never have to purchase a retune if the tune ever needs a touch up either due to weather variances or any other anomolies (for example, the oxygen sensor was faulty and the fueling needs a touch up after a new sensor is installed). This does not mean you are subject to free retunes if you change the modifications on the vehicle. The retune fee for mod changes is very competively priced as it stands!"
I know the initial idler pulley bearings suck. I've literally disintegrated the bearings in a couple myself. However, CT-E's third supplier of bearings that have been in circulation for a little over a year and a half now have been holding up. (For me, as well as others on the 8th forums.)
I mentioned the hypothetical case of "blow[ing] up" because, knock on wood, I've had no issues with being boosted. Vit's fpcal tables take into account for weather/pressure and failure conditions, same as the OEM tables.
Sleepingpanda
Kung-Fu Panda
To the OP, if you do decide to get gauges, its advisable not to mount them in the A-Pillar. In a worst case scenario, you don't want an airbag hurdling gauges towards you face. It can be pretty nasty from what I've heard. Happy boosting! 
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The loom enters the dash by way of small drilled hole on the flat piece that sits in front of the i-mid. I have drilled in the corner that is closest to the gauges..Its as less intrusive visually as possibly given where I mounted them and since that piece is fully removable from the rest of the upper dash you can most likely order it from Honda in the event you want to return to stock and have no trace of the install.
If you look at sleepingpandas pic, if you follow his steering wheel up at 12 o'clock at the center, because of the angel of the pic you it points nearly to where I have drilled. Its a couple inches to the back and to the right. Hope that makes sense...if you want I could snap a pic, I'm just lazy right now b/c I have the flu lol
If you look at sleepingpandas pic, if you follow his steering wheel up at 12 o'clock at the center, because of the angel of the pic you it points nearly to where I have drilled. Its a couple inches to the back and to the right. Hope that makes sense...if you want I could snap a pic, I'm just lazy right now b/c I have the flu lol