Help me decide!

mazda_lexus

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I have a 2013 Civic Si, I love it to death. Just traded my '09 Mazda 3 for it. But I recently came across the opportunity to get a Subaru WRX/STi..I'm not sure whether I should or shouldn't get it. I love the Si and would probably end up turbo'ing it later. But if a WRX/STi comes my way for a good price should I get that instead? My father in law is willing to buy it for me, and take my loan from my other car..he just wants me happy with my car. Should I go built or bought[emoji17]


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There are too many factors here.

The EJ257 in the STi is absolute shyte. Plenty of failures in Stock form alone. The 6spd is brilliant and won't let you down.

The FA20 in the new WRX makes pretty poor power, in my opinion, with "Stage 2" Upgrades. ~320-350whp on a Dynojet, but oddly enough, easily matches the EJ. The 6spd seems to be holding up, but if it's anything like the previous generations 5spd, will probably fail at elevated torque levels.

The K24 paired with a Stage 2 PRL Setup will dominate both Subarus from a roll. ..possibly dig. The Honda's gonna be far more reliable as well.

Feel free to ask questions, as I currently own a '13 FB6, recently owned a '12 Evo X, '11 WRX, and occasionally drive a '15 STi. Also road tripped over two thousand miles in a PRL Stage 2 FG4.

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So Stage 2 PRL will be good?
How about Stage 1?


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Any of the turbo and sc kits will be well above a wrx/sti stock. Most of the kits start at around 300 to the wheels and go up from there.
 
Had a Legacy GT, same engine as STI. You should get a compression check on the STI and that would be your deciding factor. Most people who have engine problems do not have a good tune. Most of them do a self tune or get someone else to do it for cheap. There are a few good tuners, all you do is data log and send it to them and log again, easy. Relatively cheap and safe to make power on those cars. Sti not much pulling power on top end, more mid range power.

Stage 2 which is a downpipe and optional intercooler upgrade will put around 280/300 wheel hp, but runs out of power on top end fast
Stage 3 is turbo upgrade and intercooler upgrade will help put the power on the top end, back in 2010 I got a hybrid 18g turbo which made it a good daily driver. Power came on at 3k and kept it going to 6k

Also the STI EJ257 is an old outdated engine, so dont expect the best fuel economy
 
Had a Legacy GT, same engine as STI.

Not exactly the same.. both are a 2.5L engine but compression ratio and internals are different.

I had a '07 WRX.

I'm always leary about buying used Subarus.. never know how much abuse one did to the car.. :-/
 
I'm always leary about buying used Subarus.. never know how much abuse one did to the car.. :-/

I agree with Señor Booty. I'd never buy a "Newer" Used Subaru again. Buying an older model is a different story.

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Why is buying an older uses subi better?
What year would be newer


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Considering Pre-2008 WRX's can be found for less than $10k, you could probably buy them outright and save for repairs. Newer models may be outside warranty and repair costs on top of monthly payments would be terrible.

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Mannn. I've been all over the car market figuring the best car for me. I was Mazda, wife is Lexus, I'm now Honda, dissing Subaru a little. Haha. Saving for a PRL turbo kit stage 2


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Coming back to this old thread I made,

I was super set on turbo'ing the Si but I am having second thoughts now just cause i may go FBO and daily the Si then buy a 350z for more track/drag days..any thoughts?


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Honestly just get a turbo kit or if you want something more "reliable" buy a stage 2 CT supercharger and you'll still make ~320 hp
 
Do NOT put aftermarket forced induction on your daily driver. In my experience, the more you mess with a car, the less reliable it becomes.
You've been warned.
 
While there is truth to that, Ct engineering superchargers were installed at a handful of Honda dealerships under warranty for years.
 
While there is truth to that, Ct engineering superchargers were installed at a handful of Honda dealerships under warranty for years.
It is true that Eaton superchargers are used on many OEM applications, and do have a favorable reputation for reliability. Generally, the problems arise with all the supporting mechanisms which enable the user to install forced induction on a vehicle that did not arrive from the manufacturer that way. Potential for vacuum leaks and drive belt mis-alignments come to mind when looking at CT-e kits. I'm not saying a case can't be made for them, but as a rule, when you add something as complex as forced induction, there are just X-number more things to go wrong, which is why I caution against it on a daily driver.
 
Is it really that bad? I'm not aiming for too high maybe 350hp if I can do that safely with a turbo..
If it's really a bad idea to go FI then I'll seriously go FBO


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