I can't decide which coilovers?!

Scornio said:
I figured it out I think. What you do is set your ride height with the spring portion then you use the jack to jack up the axle as if the car was resting on the ground, you'll know this once the whole car is lifting you've lifted a little bit to much,then you measure the distance from where the spring rests on the bottom and where it goes on top. Then you basically you adjust the shock to add more inches to the shock that way when you install the shock the shaft will go in a third of the way. I believe that's the way you do it. I'm sure the other member will chime in.
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That is correct. I probably should have explained a bit more how to do this without actually putting the car on the ground. What you described is exactly what we did on our own shop car to get the ride height and everything just right. You're also correct about the fact that once you actually see the car lifting on the side you're working on, then you've jacked it a little bit too much. The idea is to just "simulate" the regular weight of the car on the side you're working on, which occurs just before the car is actually lifted by the jack pressure.

Again, the whole 1/3 shock thing doesn't have to be very precise. The idea is just to get ABOUT 1/3 of the shock shaft inside the shock body while the car is at rest.

And just to be sure for anyone reading this, we're just talking about the REAR of the car here. The fronts don't need to be adjusted like this because the shock and the springs are one unit in the front.
 
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PRO Civic said:
That is correct. I probably should have explained a bit more how to do this without actually putting the car on the ground. What you described is exactly what we did on our own shop car to get the ride height and everything just right. You're also correct about the fact that once you actually see the car lifting on the side you're working on, then you've jacked it a little bit too much. The idea is to just "simulate" the regular weight of the car on the side you're working on, which occurs just before the car is actually lifted by the jack pressure.

Again, the whole 1/3 shock thing doesn't have to be very precise. The idea is just to get ABOUT 1/3 of the shock shaft inside the shock body while the car is at rest.

And just to be sure for anyone reading this, we're just talking about the REAR of the car here. The fronts don't need to be adjusted like this because the shock and the springs are one unit in the front.
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Awesome well I just ordered my d2s from yall and now I'm waiting for them to get here!:) one thing is once I lower it what do I do about putting it back on the ground the jack barely can fit as it is lol could I use the included jack?
 
Scornio said:
Awesome well I just ordered my d2s from yall and now I'm waiting for them to get here!:) one thing is once I lower it what do I do about putting it back on the ground the jack barely can fit as it is lol could I use the included jack?
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I would just get a good jack like the one we show in the video. I think it was only about $45.
 
PRO Civic said:
I would just get a good jack like the one we show in the video. I think it was only about $45.
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Went a bought one just got done installing them and the ride looks beautiful and rides amazing!! I hear deep noises on bumps though? In guessing it's just the springs needing to break in?
 
PRO Civic said:
That is correct. I probably should have explained a bit more how to do this without actually putting the car on the ground. What you described is exactly what we did on our own shop car to get the ride height and everything just right. You're also correct about the fact that once you actually see the car lifting on the side you're working on, then you've jacked it a little bit too much. The idea is to just "simulate" the regular weight of the car on the side you're working on, which occurs just before the car is actually lifted by the jack pressure.

Again, the whole 1/3 shock thing doesn't have to be very precise. The idea is just to get ABOUT 1/3 of the shock shaft inside the shock body while the car is at rest.

And just to be sure for anyone reading this, we're just talking about the REAR of the car here. The fronts don't need to be adjusted like this because the shock and the springs are one unit in the front.
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Ok just so I understand. You set the ride height of the car to where you want it with the car on the ground. You then raise the rear on jackstands and jack up the rear LCA to the approx height you set it to, and make sure the shock strut goes 1/3 in. I think I have a handle on it now.
 
Hella JDM said:
Ok just so I understand. You set the ride height of the car to where you want it with the car on the ground. You then raise the rear on jackstands and jack up the rear LCA to the approx height you set it to, and make sure the shock strut goes 1/3 in. I think I have a handle on it now.
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Actually you just set the ride height and the 1/3 shock thing while the car is if off the ground, but with the jack underneath it to simulate the weight of the car as if it were on the ground. Now, once you do this with both rear sides and the car is 100% on the ground, check the wheel gap on both sides. They should be very close, but you may need to make a slight adjustment. Again, the jack weight "simulation" thing is not perfect, but it is close.
 
PRO Civic said:
Did you read what the D2 manual said about the "strange noise"? Sounds like you might have that.
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I did not read that part il have to check that out when I get home but i figured out its coming from the rear and it's pretty loud. If I open the trunk and push down on the car it makes the noise.
 
Yeah just check out the manual's warning. I think it has to do with too much or too little of the shock shaft being exposed. Either that, or the springs are not seated correctly.
 
PRO Civic said:
Actually you just set the ride height and the 1/3 shock thing while the car is if off the ground, but with the jack underneath it to simulate the weight of the car as if it were on the ground. Now, once you do this with both rear sides and the car is 100% on the ground, check the wheel gap on both sides. They should be very close, but you may need to make a slight adjustment. Again, the jack weight "simulation" thing is not perfect, but it is close.
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I haven't installed mine yet so forgive me, but how would you know your desired ride height unless you adjusted the spring collar length, then lowered the car to the ground to see if you like the height or not?
 
Really you won't know how the car looks until all wheels are 100% sitting on the ground. The jack method I mentioned is just used to get the ride height as close as possible to what you want. You will be able to see you approximate ride height for that one wheel using the jack method before you let that wheel back down on the ground. Again, this method is by no means perfect, and it could be off by 1/2 an inch or so when you actually let the wheel down on the ground. The point is it lessens the # of times you need to jack the car up and down to get the ride height just where you want it.
 
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