Joe's Super Clean R18 Build Thread - March '14 & 15' ROTM Winner

I may be wrong but the oem spring would put you back at stock height. Stock spring plus aftermarket spring perch would make you higher than stock
 
I mean I could shorten the shock, but that would put a lot of pressure on the spring. It'd be a really stiff ride.

Are the megans suppose to be this low? I'm at max height on the spring perch, but I still have a lot of threads to go up on the shock. Kind of afraid to mess with preload but will adjusting the shock make any difference to the height?
 
So I drove through some bad roads last week and ran over what I now believe was a manhole cover sticking up above the ground (like the one below). Heard a loud bang and checked underneath the car, only to find that my driver side loading hook connected to the front subframe had been completely bent the other way around.

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Here's my passenger side for comparison.

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I've talked to a few friends and mechanics and seem to get a 50/50 response either telling me to leave it because its not a big deal or to use a large hammer and knock it back in place.

What do you guys think? Oh and I'll also be getting my alignment done this weekend.
 
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I am sorry to see that. Some pot holes are really fxxed up.
Can you go thru the insurance for the repair?
My vote is to get the repair.
 
Unfortunately my insurance has a $1000 collision deductible. It's literally a bent hook and maybe two plastic panels, which doesn't come close to $1000. Either way it'll be an out of pocket expense.

Aside from pulling the vehicle onto a truck bed. The hooks seem to serve no other purpose. I tried repairing it myself with a torch, crowbar and hammer but it didn't seem to budge. Definitely some heavy duty steel here. Not sure how much a shop would charge to knock in back in place.
 
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I'd just leave it. If you had to be towed you still have a hook that's fine, and that bent one would prob work fine too. No big deal.
 
The only main concern will be cracking on the subframe. The second concern will be rust.
 
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Thanks for the input guys. Went to a couple shops yesterday. One offered to hammer it for 40bucks and another offered to pull it straight with a frame machine for 500.

I think i'm just going to leave it for now, thanks guys!
 
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Dar-Dar said:
The only main concern will be cracking on the subframe. The second concern will be rust.
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I feel the rigid of the subframe could be degrading due to this damage. Could he just get a subframe from junkyard and swap?
Most of the cost would be the labor only I assume.
 
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