Line output converter

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IovNQ30Tv3e/p_136441DSP/JL-Audio-CL441dsp-CleanSweep.html unfortunately the cleansweep has to be fed with a full range signal. I'm not sure if the rear channels are full range or not but I know the sub channel isn't. If the rears aren't you would also have to get the channel summing module to sum the rear and sub channels to get full range. But honestly if you just want to add subs and amp you might be happy with just a simple LOC to amp setup feeding off of the sub channel despite the eq'ing. I would try that first before dropping money on the cleansweep. Then if your not happy with the output go from there.
 
damn ill have to find out if its full range. I really do appreciate your help man! its nice to see somebody willing to help someone on a forum these days...especially a honda one. This place kind of reminds me of my ep3 forum which i missed so much. Also say my rears are full range and i hook it all up with the cleansweep i should disconnect my factory sub correct?
 
Np. This forum is very helpful and full of great people. I have been playing with connecting the rears and sub or not and honestly I would leave all the rear speakers disconnected. Think about it. The sound coming from the rear of the speakers into the trunk is going to be the direct opposite of the sound coming from your sub. This is called phasing. The waves on he rear of speakers are 180 degrees out of phase with what's coming off of the front. The waves coming from your sub are going to be in phase with the waves coming from the front of the rear speakers, unless you wire the positive and negative backwards on the sub. Because the cones of all of the speakers will move out at the same time then in at the same time. What happens when you emit a properly phased wave from a sub in your trunk and it mixes with the completely out of phase wave coming from the back (bottom) of the rear speakers. They cancel each other out. This holds true in my listening tests as well. When I turn the sub up, bass gets quiet. Down bass gets louder. Except when I disconnect all rear speakers the opposite happens. Sorry I know there's a lot of info thrown at you there but I would leave all rear speakers disconnected. This will eliminate any cancellation and also provide a front sound stage which is what many want from a sound quality oriented system. Other options would be to seal the back of the rear speakers from the trunk. Or fire your sub into the cabin and seal it off from the trunk.
 
Well when it comes time ill mess with all of the ideas. Im gonna have to save up some money to get that cleansweep!
 
In the meantime you could try using a LOC and wire up some subs without the cleansweep. Like I said you may find the eq'ing doesn't bother you. If it does you can integrate the cleansweep at that point.
 
Search sjones72751 on YouTube. I've made videos of all my sound systems if you want to watch them. They use a LOC without any sort of sound processors
 
checking them out now! The video with your JL stealthbox is just the stock front speakers with all 3 rears disconnected? Sounds a lot clearer than mine...my stock speakers suck
 
Yes. With the JL the rears are disconnected. Sounds really clean and accurate.
 
Im getting ready to do a 10 inch kicker L5. Hopefully i have similar results! I do feel like something is wrong with my stock speakers though my bass is all the way down,subwoofer under half,and treble about 3/4 up and it sounds like the bass bottoms out.
 
yeah its in a custom tuned ported box. I have a kicker 400.1 or a hifonics 1000.1 im not sure which one to put on it yet
 
1 L5 10 I'd go with the 400.1. 1000 watts will overpower that sub.
 
^^^^^^^Loving the dubstep. Sounds good too. I have been pushing around putting a sub in my Si. I just dont want to mess with the dash, is there a diy on this?
 
I did a diy on the stealthbox but not the amp since there are already a few on that. You don't have to mess with the dash to wire a LOC to the sub channel.
 
Bulkybear said:
I did a diy on the stealthbox but not the amp since there are already a few on that. You don't have to mess with the dash to wire a LOC to the sub channel.
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So I got 2 12" kickers and an LOC. I still have my old V12 to run them so as soon as I get the wiring kit for the amp. Did you ever find the pre amp lines to tap into?
 
Can't tap a LOC pre amp because of the balanced differential inputs. I tapped into the sub speaker wires in the trunk.
 
Bulkybear said:
Can't tap a LOC pre amp because of the balanced differential inputs. I tapped into the sub speaker wires in the trunk.
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Thanks a bunch bulkybear, I didn't put any subs in my last vehicle because I didn't want to take apart the dash. I used your posts for the majority of the install.
 
I'm assuming it went well? Also something to double check as its not clearly documented is the factory sub, green is positive red is negative. Seems backwards huh lol.
 
Yes I had to look that one up. Also got to use t taps for the first time. Man have things gotten easier. I am in the middle of tweaking the amp to my liking, had to get inside since it is pretty darn cold.. So far everything is ok. I had the fuse in the amp rattle it self loose, lol.
 
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