New Member 2013 Sedan

Nix said:
Hey ron, welcome to the site! Sounds like you've already got some big plans in the works with the SC once you get some miles rung up.

As far as the badges go... if you like it - do it. If you get tired of the red you can always get vinyl overlays and completely change the color. The red "JDM" badges are often "replicas" or... well... just plain fake. Don't be fooled by price either. Full price ones can and have been sold even though they were reps. You can get cheap replicas on amazon for like $20 if you're just gonna cover them with vinyl but fitment may be an issue. I recommend the real deal just for the fitment issue alone. I can't stand gaps and poor placement or sizing. If the reps were spot on other than color and finish id say go for it.

Hit up some of the forum sponsors and you will always get taken care of. You'll probably find lots of other stuff on their sites that you "need" as well. hahaha.

www.corsportusa.com - go check these guys out for legit JDM emblems and tons of other parts.
Click to expand...
I ordered from corsport...I would want them to fit correct w/ no gaps. Hopefully they do

I bought this car 2-3weeks ago for 22k otd cash. Good to have $ at the end of the month at the end of the model year. I am now approaching 700 miles and although most are ultra pampered V-Tec has crept into my life a time or twelve..... I do have some money to do some mods right away, I was hit by a Doctor who ran a stop sign. I was on my CBR1000rr.........bike's in 2 pieces and I had spinal fusion surgery from t3-t9 to go along w/ 9 broken ribs. I could do anything to my car, thanks to the doc's wonderful insurance, but have decided to be more calculating and frugal as I am also trying to buy a house and want my newly found nestegg to not ever disipate completely. I am 42 years old and used to be in the minitruck scene. I've owned a bagged Nissan Hardbody on 22s and have lowered cars and trucks many different ways. I was leaning towards just doing springs only plus labor...... that being said I don't really know fully about options with struts or coilovers and I probably wouldn't want to throw a grand at something without being able to test it.... I also used to do auto x SCCA events w/ my 98 R/T neon 15 years ago and would be interested in finding something similar in fun (open to new ideas, places, and sanctions)... my R/T had only Eibach springs, Enkie/Falcon w/t combo, Aem cai, & Wingswest bodykit. If i won't have control over height I would want it to sit 2" lower in the front with a slight rake or 1.5" in rear from stock. Listening to all advice and will post pics and start build thread in the next couple weeks. btw this car is better on the HP, Gs and skidpad and also in handling that power out of a turn but the neon R/T felt better. I'm really keying in on the slight body roll that is incurred at the beginning of a turn at speed. The vehicle handles it but i feel limited for not being able to feel going into the turn smoother. Does any of this make since remember i was in a bad accident and I hit my head pretty hard.... i could just be crazy.
 
lol i love the last little bit. there is a little roll before you stiffen it up but a new rear sway bar will fix that right away.
 
ronrico418 said:
nat3d, Thanks for your continued hospitality

Late last night, I found myself staring at my car after having spent several hours on this very sight looking at other Si's. After feeling 9th gen inspired, I believe, I really like the Honda type R red badges Made in Japan that some members have modded. Does anyone hate those? I'm open to opinions and views and am currently leaning towards making a small purchase.

I will start a build thread this week after tint, pinstripe delete pics.

Also think I'm leaning towards Eibach Springs 2" front 1.5" rear or somewhere around there. Just a simple static drop for now, to ensure I don't catch any nosebleeds from being at such a constant high altitude. I red more than one post about springs settling..... Would it be best to let it settle for 2 weeks w/o driving to much or does it have to be driven a lot.

Can I just do springs or will I have to add something else?
Click to expand...



For springs a camber kit would probably be good to be sure the suspension is equalized correctly, at least thats what I was told
 
nat3d said:
lol i love the last little bit. there is a little roll before you stiffen it up but a new rear sway bar will fix that right away.
Click to expand...
okay repost warning

I ordered from corsport...I would want them to fit correct w/ no gaps. Hopefully they do

I bought this car 2-3weeks ago for 22k otd cash. Good to have $ at the end of the month at the end of the model year. I am now approaching 700 miles and although most are ultra pampered V-Tec has crept into my life a time or twelve..... I do have some money to do some mods right away, I was hit by a Doctor who ran a stop sign. I was on my CBR1000rr.........bike's in 2 pieces and I had spinal fusion surgery from t3-t9 to go along w/ 9 broken ribs. I could do anything to my car, thanks to the doc's wonderful insurance, but have decided to be more calculating and frugal as I am also trying to buy a house and want my newly found nestegg to not ever disipate completely. I am 42 years old and used to be in the minitruck scene. I've owned a bagged Nissan Hardbody on 22s and have lowered cars and trucks many different ways. I was leaning towards just doing springs only plus labor...... that being said I don't really know fully about options with struts or coilovers and I probably wouldn't want to throw a grand at something without being able to test it.... I also used to do auto x SCCA events w/ my 98 R/T neon 15 years ago and would be interested in finding something similar in fun (open to new ideas, places, and sanctions)... my R/T had only Eibach springs, Enkie/Falcon w/t combo, Aem cai, & Wingswest bodykit. If i won't have control over height I would want it to sit 2" lower in the front with a slight rake or 1.5" in rear from stock. Listening to all advice and will post pics and start build thread in the next couple weeks. btw this car is better on the HP, Gs and skidpad and also in handling that power out of a turn but the neon R/T felt better. I'm really keying in on the slight body roll that is incurred at the beginning of a turn at speed. The vehicle handles it but i feel limited for not being able to feel going into the turn smoother. Does any of this make since remember i was in a bad accident and I hit my head pretty hard.... i could just be crazy.

Here is my 88 Jimmy

168903_1653756063936_5374060_n.jpg
 
The larger rear sway will definitely eliminate that bit of body roll. It tightens the car up right away.

You can certainly start with just springs. I ran them for a while. If you are going to lower around 2" you should look into getting a set of adjustable rear camber arms. As you lower the car the rear wheels will naturally want to gain negative camber. The camber won't eat your tires as bad as improper toe settings but it just depends on how much neg camber and tire wear is acceptable to you.

I would not want to go past -1.5 degrees. The fronts will have almost no change but you can pick up a set of camber bolts for around $30 which will allow you to adjust the setting to your liking. More -camber in the front and less in the rear will help the car handle better. Certainly hit up @RedShiftChris and check out his website that squiggy posted the link to. Lots of good info there and suspension options.

The only other thing to consider is that running lowering springs alone on the stock struts will cause them to wear out quicker than normal. This is not going to be a hard and fast number of miles since everyones driving style and mileage are different. Just something to be aware of though. Koni's are available but require some modification to the front strut and are not a bolt in affair. Coilovers are generally not as performance oriented but can be had for much less $$ than a spring/Koni setup.

There are a few good coilover setups available for just under to just over $1000. I believe a full spring/koni setup with all new parts and labor and camber arms from redshift is right around $1500.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top