Discussion in 'Introduction And Pictures' started by Bartjo06, Sep 24, 2012.
Man it looks good with those rpf1’s.
thank you so much
Ditto. Looking fresh AF my man.
Nice shot @snahfu Dirt road around your house? Or random road?
Not Civic related; but, over the past month I've been able to piece together the major components (engine, clutch, trans, installed in car, etc) of my other car. About a week ago, I did the first start up after taking it all apart nearly 2yrs ago. It took a bit to get it to idle as you can see in the video below and I have a few more things to finish up underneath (and figure out why newly serviced transmission is leaking) before I can drive it. But, this was a huge step in the right direction that I thought I would share with those interested.
The Dodge Stealth came out of the 80s-90s Chrysler-Mitsubishi partnership, right?
So is this similar to a 3000GT?
Yes, it is the same car as the 3000GT VR-4 minus the Active Aero system and trim panels. The 3000GT/Stealth (3/S) was a partnership between Chrysler and Mitsubishi from 1991-1996; however, it was not part of the DSM contract. If you call a 3/S a DSM (Eclipse, Talon, Laser, and to some extent, the Galant), you'll piss some folks off (just FYI); DSMs were built in Normal, IL during the same time-frame; however, the 3/S was built in Nagoya, Japan
Ah, now that I didn't know.
why doesn't idle? Sounds like it needs a muffler. v6 turbos.
It did idle, just took me a bit to actually get it idling; at the very end, I was able to get out of the car and allow it to idle. I idled the car for about 20-30mins to allow for the bearing break in; I just didn't film much past actually achieving an idle. As for why it struggled to idle, I'm not sure other than it being a fresh engine and had to allow things to even out and heat up. I did find a few minor boost leaks yesterday that I'm working on fixing (awaiting a couple of parts); but, they shouldn't have prevented it from idling. I haven't started it since this video due to the transmission leak to see if it will idle again; but, it's coming. Just have to work my way through the laundry list of things needed to get it derivable. As for the exhaust, that video was taken with it completely connected; it did sound like there was a leak; however, the car has always been very loud and the upgraded cams also add to the noise due to the extra lift and duration. While it was running, I was under it looking for leaks but didn't find anything; but, I do plan to keep looking as I want to be sure.
30min wait at red robin so i snapped this
not really a fan of those window sills due to cutting off side vision which might save you from a accident even though they do look cool. that car would not pass my inspection to low for crappy roads here and the wheels are very questionable also those wheels bend too easy. It does look nice. what kind of tint does it have over 35% would not pass inspection which is what i have 35%. I believe in tuning to the road all ways-rules. It works where you are, not where i am.
4% tint all around including windshield
thats not much at all, it looked darker than mine-i don't know why. I am at 35% and i like it, the inside doesn't get as hot. too bad the windows are down. I wouldn't settle for a four door when only two are needed.
the visors help alot with blocking the sun
notice those cement stops can really rip a car up-I saw a guy pull his whole bumper off-i warned him to call a tow truck to lift the car off-nope didn't listen to me LOL. After seeing that I just couldn't help but laugh at him for being so stupid. always pull in very slowly and get out of car and check-you can't see where it hits till you hit it. the visors don't help enough to keep the inside temp down- you could actually damage the plasitc with too much heat.
yeah definitely have to be careful and backing in is usually the best way because of the back-up camera.
I need more practice with that camera to trust it too much. It even works in the dark-it is a great camera however. the front is a blind spot, for a low cement block.
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