Ported OEM manifold!?

cb7atheart said:
No Shi'ite captain obvious.....
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How about being respectful to others on the site. We are all here to help and be informative.

Also, do some research. There is plenty of info on the site for who has done what with the ZDX.
 
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Plus, an adapter is needed. If anything, the adapter would need to be tapered. I am not sure if they are. Otherwise, never heard of "porting" plastic...not to say it isn't possible.

Honestly, a bigger TB would be the last bolt-on priority-wise. It will really only get you a couple of horses near redline.
 
squiggy said:
Plus, an adapter is needed. If anything, the adapter would need to be tapered. I am not sure if they are. Otherwise, never heard of "porting" plastic...not to say it isn't possible.

Honestly, a bigger TB would be the last bolt-on priority-wise. It will really only get you a couple of horses near redline.
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Yeah, there has been quite a surge in the last several months of people adding the ZDX TB when it's not worth it.

A post made by VitViper on another site sums it up nicely:

VitViper said:
OK I'm going to emphasis one major point that seems to be at the root of this evil.

- THE TUNE CANNOT FIX YOUR CAR IDLING LIKE COMPLETE FAIL AND THROWING CODES WHEN YOU INSTALL AN OVER-SIZED THROTTLE BODY FOR THE SETUP.It's really that simple. Prove me wrong, open your calibration and find ANYTHING in there that relates to "HEY ECU MAKE THE THROTTLE BODY DO THIS WHILE THE CAR IS AT IDLE". Good luck, bring popcorn. PS, there are also no disables for the throttle codes you're going to throw with a misadjusted TB.

There are four ways to fix your throttle body dilemma (if it's bouncing like crazy).
- Find the vacuum leak.
- Adjust the small "set screw" that is located on the TB. This requires an allen wrench, unhooking the TB harness and aiming for 1400-1600 rpm idle with the TB disconnected. You'll know you got the right spot when the idle stops bouncing and/or the ECU stops throwing codes. Here's a fun fact for you, if the TB is so big that even at the lowest position of the set screw your idle is still funny -- shocker, because your motor doesn't NEED the extra air coming through it, it can't consume it, as a result your idle GOES UP.
- Idle relearn procedure. No, I'm not going to go indepth on this, search -- the information is out there and on flashprotuning.com in a blog article I wrote years ago.
- PUT YOUR STOCK TB BACK ON. This is by far the easiest and best way to fix your issue. Your 200hp ("230hp" lol ya right, congrats on BS miracle dyno #'s, whatever who cares, same point still applies) N/A car does NOT need a 70-80mm throttle body. Guess what, it does absolutely nothing for you. You don't gain any HP, you don't improve the car in anyway. The Skunk2/ZDX/TL TB's are for major builds (big power n/a builds need big TB's, some S/C setups benefit from big TB's -- sorry your KW kit doesn't, the Centri blower works on the same concept as a turbo).

Fun fact, we're making over 730whp with a 65mm TB. Shocked? Good.

Putting a huge TB on your car seems to be the latest trend -- it's right up there with hellaflushing.
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I know people would like to keep their OEM manifold design for the low-end torque, but really if you are after better flow from an IM, just go RBC/RRC. Even if you could port the OEM manifold, I wouldn't bet on the results being worth the trouble.
 
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Great info...damn i guess $500 for and RRC it is...:-p...but still dont know if i want to do more shtt to my daily...a nice tune should be enough...:-p..
 
cb7atheart said:
Great info...damn i guess $500 for and RRC it is...:-p...but still dont know if i want to do more shtt to my daily...a nice tune should be enough...:-p..
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vitviper has said the rrc/rbc will not show gains. He's posted a couple of threads showing before/after & it lost torque
 
rrc is almost identical to the rbc. People dynoed them both back to back on the 8th and there was no difference.

=======
Today I had Daniel at Church Automotive dyno tune my car with a Port Matched RRC Intake Manifold.

I had the car dyno tuned with the Port Matched RBC Intake Manifold at Church Automotive and it made 247.3 hp and 177.1 tq.

I then had the car the dyno tuned with the Port Matched RRC Intake Manifold at Church Automotive and it made 246 hp and 174.4 tq.

To my surprise my car made less power with the RRC Intake Manifold.

Engine Mods are:

K20Z3
2008 TSX CAMSHAFT
AEM CAI V2 Heat Wrapped
BPI Velocity Stack
Skunk2 Race Header Heat Wrapped
Invidia Q300 Catback
2006 TSX Throttle Body
RDX 410cc Injector
Port Matched RBC Intake Manifold VS Port Matched RRC Intake Manifold
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
P2R Intake Throttle Body Spacer
P2R Throttle Body Gasket

Bold Blue is RBC Dyno Tuned
Pink is RRC Dyno Tuned
Thin Blue is a baseline dyno for the RRC


rfxfQrQ.jpg
 
Yeah, I saw that. K24 is not high rev motor like K20 so intake manifold upgrades are useless. It's a same think for R18 too.
 
Really either leave it stock go forced induction. Bolt ons arent really worth it on this motor imo. Instead on spending $2k and getting 10 hp spend 3 to 3.5k and get at least a ct stage 1.
 
It seem like the down pipe/exhaust/tune route nets people some pretty decent gains though. Not a lot but enough that it seems worth it. Plus those mods are definitely supporting mods for FI routes later.

I would advise against trying to port the OEM manifold for the simple fact that it is injection molded plastic. Usually those have pretty tight tolerances and can be made pretty thin, which is I'm sure what they do to save material and weight. Unlike an aluminum sand cast manifold that leaves a fairly rough finish and thickness isn't as tightly controlled, I don't think you will have a safe enough margin of material to try and remove very much at all. The flange is probably the thickest part. Just my observations on that.
 
Agree with a lot of the comments...daily car so im not planning on doing alot...donwpipe..flashpro and just missing the tuned...other then that its fine for a daily...until i come across some srt4 at the light and i regret not going turbo lol...
 
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