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Today I had my suspension installed. Holy cow! MIND BLOWN! I feel like I have a different car now. I can feel a symphony of bumps on each of my four tires now. The chassis is stiff and ridged. I know it is not possible, but my acceleration seems like it was impacted as well. It appears to take off quicker now. The drop was only an inch or so, but it just...feels different in the driver's seat now. One word describes this. AMAZING! I am extremely happy with my purchase. Here are the much awaited photos!



 
Just to let you know.... most every high heat paint I have used does not cure until high heat has been applied, IE: will be sticky without baking. The solvents evaporate, but it doesn't cure. Also, this makes a poor finish coating IMO for salt resistance.

If you are dead set on using it, you must find a way to bake it.... however the household oven isn't a good idea.
@Michael Hurd : What paint do you recommend for refinishing wheels, short of baking them?
 
I know its mid-January, but I finally found a good deal on a set of four snows: Nokian Hakkapeliitta rsi 225/45/17 with 3k miles on them. I'm using the '12 Si rims for winter use. got an extra set of tpms sensors a while ago for this purpose. Now I don't care (much) if it snows.
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I know its mid-January, but I finally found a good deal on a set of four snows: Nokian Hakkapeliitta rsi 225/45/17 with 3k miles on them. I'm using the '12 Si rims for winter use. got an extra set of tpms sensors a while ago for this purpose. Now I don't care (much) if it snows.
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That's great news. You do know that because you bought those it's not going to snow anymore right? You've done us all a favor. Thanks!!
 
@Michael Hurd : What paint do you recommend for refinishing wheels, short of baking them?

If you can get a local paint store to make up a spray can with an acrylic enamel, this will generally be a tougher paint than most over the counter spray cans, plus you can get it made in a variety of colors, or an exact match for an OEM color if desired. The resins are of a better quality, and stronger solvents as well to dissolve the resins. Pigments are also going to be stronger than most cheap spray cans, meaning less coats to hiding.

2 component paints ( with a catalyst ) are tougher yet, especially urethanes like BASF's RM UNO-HD line or Dupont Imron. However, these paints aren't for sale or use for the general public as the isocyanate catalyst is toxic and can cause respiratory issues.

With any paint, proper ventilation is key.
 
If you can get a local paint store to make up a spray can with an acrylic enamel, this will generally be a tougher paint than most over the counter spray cans, plus you can get it made in a variety of colors, or an exact match for an OEM color if desired. The resins are of a better quality, and stronger solvents as well to dissolve the resins. Pigments are also going to be stronger than most cheap spray cans, meaning less coats to hiding.

2 component paints ( with a catalyst ) are tougher yet, especially urethanes like BASF's RM UNO-HD line or Dupont Imron. However, these paints aren't for sale or use for the general public as the isocyanate catalyst is toxic and can cause respiratory issues.

With any paint, proper ventilation is key.

Thanks for that info. The reason I ask is that I had used Sherwin Williams automotive division paint on a basecoat of primer on my RSX S rims, then clearcoated them with over the counter stuff from Autozone, specifed for rims. All four rims have crazed clearcoat. I will be re-doing the rims in the Spring and can't decide how to go about it. Powdercoating would be ideal, but there are small bits of filler (curb rash) that are not metalized. From what I understand, the powdercoating wouldn't take. I'd have to grind that off and fill with welding material instead.

If I were to paint them again, it would be a lot easier, but it seems the finish doesn't hold up.
 
Sounds like the basecoat and / or topcoat wasn't compatible with the primer if it's crazed. Did you use a spray can primer? If so, it may have been a lacquer and the strong solvents from the basecoat caused a reaction. Sometimes, it's not apparent right away, and can show up later on. Polyurethanes and base / clear should only be used over a 2K primer.
 
I did use a spray can primer for automotive wheels. it was not part of a system. I think I need to let the Sherwin Williams people set me up with primer, base and then clear. It's worth the extra money not to have this sort of headache. Unless you know of a good, compatible product line that I can get at a parts store. I don't care this time around if I'm not using the Acura color code for the wheels. I think I'd like them a little lighter, like the newer Mercedes rim colors anyway.
 
a set of slightly used motegi racing mr107s :)
the style has grown on me and its taken me almost a year to buy these but im finally gonna have new shoes :D i got them for such a good price i couldnt pass it up
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a couple are curbbed a little but whatever tire rack has them at $147 a rim. i paid just under twice that for the entire set WITH lug nuts.
 
did you know the guy that created tmnt is from mass and actually was born in the next town over from me? true story
 
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