Twistedframe
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Great work Chad!!! I am a big fan of those cars, and you made it look amazing!!!!
Rasky's work! :)
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RaskyR1
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I was told by several installers that it's not needed. I've used them before and I've had the film leave behind adhesive over the whole panel. I think it really just comes down to the make of film and who installed it.
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- #23
RaskyR1
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Chevy Tahoe paint correction and Opti-Guard coating
Client recently purchased this vehicle for his wife and wanted it looking new again with some durable protection. The previous owner appeared to have lived on a gravel road and frequent the local swirl-o-matic wash.
Process:
Wash – Foam bath with CGCW and 2BM
Wheels – Meguiars Wheel Brightner
Tires – Optimum Power Clean
Clay – Meguiars Mild Clay
Paint correction step 1 – Meguiar’s D300 and MF cutting disk on the DA
Paint correction step 2 – Meguiar’s M205 and crimson LC foam pad on the DA
Coating Prep – Foam bath with CGCW and OPC followed by a IPA wipe-down
Paint protection – Optimum Opti-Guard (Paint/wheels/lights/trim)
Tire and wheel wells – Dressed with Meguiar’s Hyper Dressing 3:1
Glass – Meguiars D120
Chrome – Optimum Metal Polish
Note: Areas with bad water spots (hood and fenders) were first hit with M105/Surbuf
Before pics
Heavy swirls
Water spots on hood
Side molding were in rough shape!
50/50 after just the D300 compound!
Water spot 50/50
Client recently purchased this vehicle for his wife and wanted it looking new again with some durable protection. The previous owner appeared to have lived on a gravel road and frequent the local swirl-o-matic wash.
Process:
Wash – Foam bath with CGCW and 2BM
Wheels – Meguiars Wheel Brightner
Tires – Optimum Power Clean
Clay – Meguiars Mild Clay
Paint correction step 1 – Meguiar’s D300 and MF cutting disk on the DA
Paint correction step 2 – Meguiar’s M205 and crimson LC foam pad on the DA
Coating Prep – Foam bath with CGCW and OPC followed by a IPA wipe-down
Paint protection – Optimum Opti-Guard (Paint/wheels/lights/trim)
Tire and wheel wells – Dressed with Meguiar’s Hyper Dressing 3:1
Glass – Meguiars D120
Chrome – Optimum Metal Polish
Note: Areas with bad water spots (hood and fenders) were first hit with M105/Surbuf
Before pics
Heavy swirls
Water spots on hood
Side molding were in rough shape!
50/50 after just the D300 compound!
Water spot 50/50
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- #24
RaskyR1
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After pics!
Moldings came out pretty good…color was still off a bit
Brinkmann
Video showing the Meguiar's D300 compound and MF cutting pad going to work!
YouTube - D300 test spot
Thanks for looking!
Rasky
Moldings came out pretty good…color was still off a bit
Brinkmann
Video showing the Meguiar's D300 compound and MF cutting pad going to work!
YouTube - D300 test spot
Thanks for looking!
Rasky
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great work. Do you get all of your products online, or can you get some of it in certain stores?
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RaskyR1
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Thanks Webby!
I order 99% of things online and I have a wholesale account with one of the online vendors which I get about 75% of my stuff from. Most the products I use are not sold OTC.
damn! awesome work.
baller cars compared to mine lol
baller cars compared to mine lol
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- #28
RaskyR1
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Yeah I'm a booty lover.. What can I say!
How many cars do you detail like a year? Few a month?
How many cars do you detail like a year? Few a month?
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- #30
RaskyR1
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I'd say 2-4 a month right now (weekends only)....Ideally it would be 1-2 since it's only part time and I'd like to have a life too, but I hate saying no and I'm currently booking into Sept right now. 
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RaskyR1
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1960 Impala, Full Wet Sand and Buff.
So this is another car that my mentor recently picked up for resale at a local auction (yes it sold). The car appeared to have been repainted several years ago, but it was never actually wet sanded and buffed after the repaint. Overall the car was in very good shape, but the paint really needed to be leveled off to show it's true potential. While I really wanted to level the paint as smooth as glass, the initial paint readings told me there was not a lot of paint of the car and the owner and I agreed not to go too crazy with the sanding, but it was still a huge improvement!
So lets take a look at how the car came in...
Here it is at the owners facility, where I did my initial inspection and test sanding/buffing.
Deck lid
Zoomed in
Top of the passenger door
Side of passengers door
Passenger fender
Dust nibs still in the paint
Drivers side fender
Looking down the side....those fins made for some challenging sanding and buffing.
This one shows some swirls, RIDS, and nasty orange peel.
The Sanding process was done by both hand and DA. Areas that were highly curved needed to be done by hand using Meguiars (Nikken) 1500/3000 grit sheets and a makeshift sanding block/pad. The flat panels were done using a combination on Mirka Soft 1000/2500 grit disks in both 3" and 6", followed by some Meguiar's 3000 grit disks.
I must also give Kevin over at BuffyDaddy a huge thumbs up for helping me find the right sanding media for this rock solid paint and for getting them out to me in such a timely matter! This was by far the hardest paint I've ever laid a buffer too. The Mirka Soft discs worked flawlessly and will be added to my wet sanding arsenal! Thanks again Kevin!!!
Pics of the sanding in process
Hand sanding curved areas
DA sanding
So this is another car that my mentor recently picked up for resale at a local auction (yes it sold). The car appeared to have been repainted several years ago, but it was never actually wet sanded and buffed after the repaint. Overall the car was in very good shape, but the paint really needed to be leveled off to show it's true potential. While I really wanted to level the paint as smooth as glass, the initial paint readings told me there was not a lot of paint of the car and the owner and I agreed not to go too crazy with the sanding, but it was still a huge improvement!
So lets take a look at how the car came in...
Here it is at the owners facility, where I did my initial inspection and test sanding/buffing.
Deck lid
Zoomed in
Top of the passenger door
Side of passengers door
Passenger fender
Dust nibs still in the paint
Drivers side fender
Looking down the side....those fins made for some challenging sanding and buffing.
This one shows some swirls, RIDS, and nasty orange peel.
The Sanding process was done by both hand and DA. Areas that were highly curved needed to be done by hand using Meguiars (Nikken) 1500/3000 grit sheets and a makeshift sanding block/pad. The flat panels were done using a combination on Mirka Soft 1000/2500 grit disks in both 3" and 6", followed by some Meguiar's 3000 grit disks.
I must also give Kevin over at BuffyDaddy a huge thumbs up for helping me find the right sanding media for this rock solid paint and for getting them out to me in such a timely matter! This was by far the hardest paint I've ever laid a buffer too. The Mirka Soft discs worked flawlessly and will be added to my wet sanding arsenal! Thanks again Kevin!!!
Pics of the sanding in process
Hand sanding curved areas
DA sanding
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- #32
RaskyR1
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Car all sanded ready to be buffed...notice that the 3000 grit almost leaves the paint with a slight gloss. 
Doing some more test spots trying to figure out best combo for scratch removal.
50/50 test spot
This was on one of the late week nights, frustrated by how hard the paint was....Kevin asked how it was going so I thought I'd send him a pic showing how it was "really" going.
The actual sanding scratch removal was done with the below process:
-M105 on the rotary with various wool pads (KB's method)
-M105 on the rotary with cyan LC foam pads
-M205 on the rotary with tangerine LC foam pads
-PO85RD on the rotary with black LC foam pads
LSP was Blackfire Wet-Diamond
The next day I decided to take a break from the paint and focus on the stainless trim and a few other items, which M105 actually polished up very nicely.
Before
After
Before
After
Change can be seen better in these ones
Before
After
Doing some more test spots trying to figure out best combo for scratch removal.
50/50 test spot
This was on one of the late week nights, frustrated by how hard the paint was....Kevin asked how it was going so I thought I'd send him a pic showing how it was "really" going.
The actual sanding scratch removal was done with the below process:
-M105 on the rotary with various wool pads (KB's method)
-M105 on the rotary with cyan LC foam pads
-M205 on the rotary with tangerine LC foam pads
-PO85RD on the rotary with black LC foam pads
LSP was Blackfire Wet-Diamond
The next day I decided to take a break from the paint and focus on the stainless trim and a few other items, which M105 actually polished up very nicely.
Before
After
Before
After
Change can be seen better in these ones
Before
After
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- #33
RaskyR1
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While polishing the rear trim piece I also took off the tail light covers to better polish them. Plus they were a little dirty inside so I gave them a quick cleaning. This was actually a 50/50 shot of the rear trim and taillights...hard to see difference in the pic
Dirty housing
Quick cleaning
Tail lights
Both sides done
Another 50/50 shot
Dirty housing
Quick cleaning
Tail lights
Both sides done
Another 50/50 shot
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- #34
RaskyR1
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This was as I finally finished at 1:00a.m. during a week night. I normally don't take cars on during the week as I have a full time job, but the car had to get done as it was going to the auction the next day.
Next day when the owner picked it up.....yea sun!
I didn't do anything with the motor or trunk but thought I add pics of them as well
As always, thank you for taking the time to view my work!
Rasky
Next day when the owner picked it up.....yea sun!
I didn't do anything with the motor or trunk but thought I add pics of them as well
As always, thank you for taking the time to view my work!
Rasky
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another great job! Did you have to deal with any chrome work, or was it all fine? I like the got dust shirt
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Amazing work!!!
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- #37
RaskyR1
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Thanks Webby. The trim was actually stainless, and if you look above there are a few before and after pics of them after polishing. They actually came out looking very good. The Bumpers were chrome though and were in decent shape.
It was VERY dusty during the compounding step!
Thank You!
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- #38
RaskyR1
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Infinity FX35, D/A MF correction, Opti-Guard protection.
I did this one a few weeks ago but haven't really had the time to post the pics. The vehicle was actually in pretty good shape but ended up needing a 2-step to get the correction level we wanted.
Process:
Wash - Foam bath with CGCW and 2BM
Wheels - Sonan Full Effect and various brushes
Tires - Optimum Power Clean, dressed with Megs Hyper Dressing 3:1
Clay - Megs mild clay and ONR as lube
Paint correction step 1 - D300 and MF cutting pad on the GGDA
Paint correction step 2 - 106fa and tangerine LC foam on the GGDA
Coating prep - Foam bath/wash with CGCW and OPC followed by IPA wipe down
Glass - Megs D120
Exhaust tips - Optimum metal polish
Trim - 303 Aerospace Protectant
Paint Protection - Optimum Opti-Guard
Sorry, not a lot of pics as I was under the gun on this one (Impala waiting)
Before pics:
Some DISO could also be seen along with some light webbing.
All taped up
After:
I thought the grill was pretty cool.
As always, thanks for checking out my work.
Rasky
I did this one a few weeks ago but haven't really had the time to post the pics. The vehicle was actually in pretty good shape but ended up needing a 2-step to get the correction level we wanted.
Process:
Wash - Foam bath with CGCW and 2BM
Wheels - Sonan Full Effect and various brushes
Tires - Optimum Power Clean, dressed with Megs Hyper Dressing 3:1
Clay - Megs mild clay and ONR as lube
Paint correction step 1 - D300 and MF cutting pad on the GGDA
Paint correction step 2 - 106fa and tangerine LC foam on the GGDA
Coating prep - Foam bath/wash with CGCW and OPC followed by IPA wipe down
Glass - Megs D120
Exhaust tips - Optimum metal polish
Trim - 303 Aerospace Protectant
Paint Protection - Optimum Opti-Guard
Sorry, not a lot of pics as I was under the gun on this one (Impala waiting)
Before pics:
Some DISO could also be seen along with some light webbing.
All taped up
After:
I thought the grill was pretty cool.
As always, thanks for checking out my work.
Rasky
- Thread starter
- #39
RaskyR1
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Time for some pics! Sorry I've been slacking on adding them here.
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- #40
RaskyR1
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Rasky's Auto Detailing: Paint correction, Black 2010 Altima Coupe
I actually complete this one back in June and just haven't gotten around to doing the article until now. The Owner of this vehicle is actually from Canada and he had contacted me a while back to see if I'd be willing to detail it. At first I was a little reluctant, as I really didn't think it was necessary for him to drive 6+ hours to have his car detailed. I was confident I could refer him to a closer, yet reputable detailer, though he insisted there was no other reputable place closer than me. Just to be sure I checked with some fellow Canadian detailers and they agreed I was by far the closest they'd recommend. After agreeing to take the car on the owner sent me some pics highlighting his concerns. Apparently the dealership had left their trademark DISO and he was not happy with how the car looked. Based on his pictures below I gave him a preliminary estimate of a 2 step correction, but I also informed him that any deeper RIDS could potentially require a 3rd correction step or could even be too deep to safely remove.
DISO!
The owner arrived late on Friday evening and it appeared my assessment based on this pictures was going to be enough to achieve 90-95% correction and we agreed to the 2-step correction.
Some more before pics showing the quality work by the dealership
Marring and holograms
Process:
Wash - Foam bath with CGCW and 2BM
Wheels - Sonax Full Effect
Tires/jambs/wheel wells - OPC
Clay - Clay Magic with ONR
Paint correction Step 1 - Meguiar's D300 on the GG6 with 5" MF cutting pad (Heavy pressure and slow arm movement, speed 4)
Paint correction step 2 - Menzerna 106fa on the GG6 with tangerine LC foam
Paint prep - Foam bath with CGCW and gentle wash, rinse with DI water and blow dry
Paint protection - Blackfire Wet-Diamond (Opti-Guard on the wheels, front bumper, and headlights)
Glass- Meguiar's D120
Tires/Wheel wells - Meguiar's Hyper Dressing 3:1
Exhaust tips - Optimum Metal Polish
Note: I used Opti-Guard on the front as the owner was concerned about the bugs from the long ride home. It was also a way for him to decide if Opti-Guard was an investment he wanted to make next year when he has me touch up the car again.
50/50 shot after only D300/MF
I actually complete this one back in June and just haven't gotten around to doing the article until now. The Owner of this vehicle is actually from Canada and he had contacted me a while back to see if I'd be willing to detail it. At first I was a little reluctant, as I really didn't think it was necessary for him to drive 6+ hours to have his car detailed. I was confident I could refer him to a closer, yet reputable detailer, though he insisted there was no other reputable place closer than me. Just to be sure I checked with some fellow Canadian detailers and they agreed I was by far the closest they'd recommend. After agreeing to take the car on the owner sent me some pics highlighting his concerns. Apparently the dealership had left their trademark DISO and he was not happy with how the car looked. Based on his pictures below I gave him a preliminary estimate of a 2 step correction, but I also informed him that any deeper RIDS could potentially require a 3rd correction step or could even be too deep to safely remove.
DISO!
The owner arrived late on Friday evening and it appeared my assessment based on this pictures was going to be enough to achieve 90-95% correction and we agreed to the 2-step correction.
Some more before pics showing the quality work by the dealership
Marring and holograms
Process:
Wash - Foam bath with CGCW and 2BM
Wheels - Sonax Full Effect
Tires/jambs/wheel wells - OPC
Clay - Clay Magic with ONR
Paint correction Step 1 - Meguiar's D300 on the GG6 with 5" MF cutting pad (Heavy pressure and slow arm movement, speed 4)
Paint correction step 2 - Menzerna 106fa on the GG6 with tangerine LC foam
Paint prep - Foam bath with CGCW and gentle wash, rinse with DI water and blow dry
Paint protection - Blackfire Wet-Diamond (Opti-Guard on the wheels, front bumper, and headlights)
Glass- Meguiar's D120
Tires/Wheel wells - Meguiar's Hyper Dressing 3:1
Exhaust tips - Optimum Metal Polish
Note: I used Opti-Guard on the front as the owner was concerned about the bugs from the long ride home. It was also a way for him to decide if Opti-Guard was an investment he wanted to make next year when he has me touch up the car again.
50/50 shot after only D300/MF