Removing EZ-Lip

Beeshabo

Beeshabo

Well-Known Member
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I'm sure most of you are familiar with the EZ-Lip, inexpensive lip that's a breeze to put on.....but I'm sure, is a be B***H to remove. Which I have to do now 'cause I misjudged the depth of my cousins driveway, so, my lip has ripped :(

Anyone know of an "easy" or "effective" way to remove it? That 3M tape is tough ish.
 
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Beeshabo said:
I'm sure most of you are familiar with the EZ-Lip, inexpensive lip that's a breeze to put on.....but I'm sure, is a be B***H to remove. Which I have to do now 'cause I misjudged the depth of my cousins driveway, so, my lip has ripped :(

Anyone know of an "easy" or "effective" way to remove it? That 3M tape is tough ish.
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Try a blow dryer or heat gun. Same as removal of any other type of adhesive (for the most part).
 
JJCampos93 said:
I just pulled from one end and dragged it across and it came right off... Lol just 10 mins ago
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Really?? I started tugging on it yesterday and the foam/lip started coming off, but the adhesive remained lol When I took off my rear windshield spoiler (held on by 3M tape), it was a PAIN!! and that was off of glass, a much easier surface to work with.
 
Beeshabo said:
Really?? I started tugging on it yesterday and the foam/lip started coming off, but the adhesive remained lol When I took off my rear windshield spoiler (held on by 3M tape), it was a PAIN!! and that was off of glass, a much easier surface to work with.
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Yes really, maybe it's the hot texas weather?
 
I have a trim tool made by 3M for that, fits in an air hammer, looks like a very thin putty knife. Cuts the tape without scratching / gouging the paint. You must run low air pressure though with a regulator.... If I recall correct it's like 50 PSI.

It's this one here:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N1977_-1_-1&pt=N1977&ppt=C0063

You must keep it at a low angle to the surface, and it helps to pull on the trim as you cut the adhesive. I can cut all the moldings off a truck in minutes with that tool. Maybe you could try a putty knife if someone gives you a hand to pull the trim.... it must be very thin, but sand the edge with fine sandpaper so it's not sharp at all and round the corners.
 
Michael Hurd said:
I have a trim tool made by 3M for that, fits in an air hammer, looks like a very thin putty knife. Cuts the tape without scratching / gouging the paint. You must run low air pressure though with a regulator.... If I recall correct it's like 50 PSI.

It's this one here:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N1977_-1_-1&pt=N1977&ppt=C0063

You must keep it at a low angle to the surface, and it helps to pull on the trim as you cut the adhesive. I can cut all the moldings off a truck in minutes with that tool. Maybe you could try a putty knife if someone gives you a hand to pull the trim.... it must be very thin, but sand the edge with fine sandpaper so it's not sharp at all and round the corners.
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GREAT!! Thanks a lot, awesome tips too. Much appreciated.
 
webby said:
useless crap 101
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Not really. Just only useful in specific situations.

What really baffles me is your ability to recall and find threads so quickly. Unless you just know how to manipulate the search function really well. I have a hard time searching for specific threads most of the time.
 
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I get what you're saying. I think I subconsciously make notes in my head of various things that I think may come up later. Maybe the person who started the thread, maybe an obscure keyword in the person's post, maybe something I wrote.... whatever. Then I can usually think back to what it was, and do a search to relocate content. It's not 100%, but I can usually find what I'm looking for. It progressively gets harder as more and more content is added though.
 
The adhesive remover will only take of the residue, you would need gallons upon gallons to make something fall off by trying to soak it from the side. The adhesive must be cut, then the residue left you can use the 3m spray linked. Anything could be made to work, but I am hesitant to suggest other tools that can cause damage. The 3m tool I linked does a wonderful job, and will not scratch paint. Of course, the paint around the molding must be clean, and for those that feel it may cause damage could put a strip of tape beside the molding.

It also cuts of emblems that have plastic pins... snaps them right off in no time at all.
 
Beeshabo said:
GREAT!! Thanks a lot, awesome tips too. Much appreciated.
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Keep in mind if you buy a putty knife, you want the nice thin flexible ones, not the ones that are like scrapers. Thinner the better. Round over the edges with a file and then take fine sandpaper to dress the edges and make sure there is no burr. Tap with a hammer or work back and forth from side to side wiggling.
 
I also have a rubber wheel for removing adhesive residue, it's almost like a big pencil eraser on a 1/4" shaft. You operate it at low speeds in a drill and the adhesive sticks to the rubber, as the rubber wears off. Also, here in Canuckistan, that 3M adhesive remover is $ 31 bucks at my supplier.... compared to the $ 8.95 @ Amazon. :mad: OUCH. We get boned on certain items... even SEM trim black is way expensive up here.
 
Break out some autobody shop tools of the trade. Plastic banding from around packages work really good to remove stuff that is 3m tapped on and doesnt damage paint, also piano wire, or guitar string work well. The rubber eraser deals that you put in a drill really dont work that well and its actually pretty easy to burn off paint using them. In the body shop everybody just used plastic banding and laquer thinner to remove the goo. Just dont let the laquer thinner sit on the paint. Put it on a rag and wipe over the goo and it will come right off.
 
I have used piano wire before, but I am sure the plastic banding works great too. I have never had an issue with a rubber wheel, sounds like either a real cheap one, or someone held it in one spot way too long.
 
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