Twister8008's PMM Machine Build

To be honest, deep inside I thought I was going to return her to stock again within a year or so to upgrade to another car. My track record for keeping cars is quite abysmal. I have never kept a car longer than a year! I have now had her since October 2013 :) a SC will lock her in for quite a bit longer.
 
I usually run my cars to the ground...thats only because this Honda is my first new car, the last two cars i had both had 200,000 + miles on them when i got them....I drive an LX and when I pay this off I want to upgrade to a more power wielding car, not sure if it will be a Honda but if it's not I will return to the Honda game some day purely because these cars are just incredibly well designed IMHO
 
It's amazing to hear that, considering thats a WAY more expensive car
 
I know! The Suburus, both my WRX and WRX STI had crappy interiors with a pillar rattles and just overall cheap quality. The sound system was basically non existent
 
You'll want an aftercooler setup, 750-1000cc injectors, 1 step colder plugs, and a 4bar map sensor if you go with the 3.15 or smaller pulley.
 
Here's my proposed install setup... How does it look?

CTe $3519 pro civic
2.95" pulley Vit
Aftercooler $1245 Vit
Big bore inlet and adapter $259 Vit
Tune by Vit
Spark plugs NGK 1422 $42 Amazon
Boost gauge (Aem) $169 pro civic
DW injectors (1000cc) $389 DW site
Hondata 4 bar map sensor $99 pro civic
Clutch And flywheel (Exedy) $720 (corsport)
 
twister8008 said:
Here's my proposed install setup... How does it look?

CTe $3519 pro civic
2.95" pulley Vit
Aftercooler $1245 Vit
Big bore inlet and adapter $259 Vit
Tune by Vit
Spark plugs NGK 1422 $42 Amazon
Boost gauge (Aem) $169 pro civic
DW injectors (1000cc) $389 DW site
Hondata 4 bar map sensor $99 pro civic
Clutch And flywheel (Exedy) $720 (corsport)
Click to expand...
Mind as well get you the zdx tb and 1200cc injectors in case you decide to go the e85 route. Also get plug and play clips fit injectors. You'll need a dw65c fuel pump if you don't have it already.
 
There are injectors that are plug and play? Like just swap out injectors and they're good? No splicing?
 
Jake LXer said:
There are injectors that are plug and play? Like just swap out injectors and they're good? No splicing?
Click to expand...
There are adapters to fit injectors with different connectors to your oem harness so you don't have to cut the factory harness.20160304_184120.jpg 20150516_115609.jpg
 
Well d**m... Considering PRL kit again :) all of those extra parts added up quickly on the SC with no warranty whatsoever. Does the PRL kit come with a warranty?
 
Well, now I am leaning towards the Kraftwerks kit. I want to call their shop and discuss pulleys a bit and talk warranty with them. I'm also waiting for pro civic's email back for their military discount as it changes for different items. I'm looking for 330 whp or so. This kit would fit the bill. It is actually less expensive than the CTe stage 2+ with Vit's aftercooler.

$3900 CTe SC stage 2 with no warranty. $1285 for cooler. $40 for 1.95" pulley. $254 for wide bore adapter. = roughly 300-330 whp

$4200 for Kraftwerks = 300-330 whp

I have seen two people have to ship their rotrex back, and that worries me a tad, but I have also seen many happy campers. You can't rule out a company for a couple of weird situations. If that were the case, Walmart would no longer get business. Hahahaha!
 
Ok, this is getting crazy... I just had a good talk with Spencer from PRL. Turbo sounds more and more doable. I am trying to figure out a couple of issues, and I would appreciate any advice on these questions as I have been inundated with information from forums and internet searches.

1. Ball Bearing vs journal bearing? Ball bearings are possibly more reliable and don't allow your car to create "puffs of smoke." Journal bearings do not create a seal like ball bearings and can be less reliable over time. These two things make ball bearings $600 more expensive. Is there any weight to these claims? This is a moot point if I circumnavigate the entire precision line and go with the Garret GTX3076.

2. What clutch?! This question is killing me. I was all ready to go with an exedy stage 2 clutch for my proposed supercharger setup and then my installer told me never to have a "puck style" clutch on a street car, because it forces the driver to slip 1st gear and ultimately fails sooner do to this compensation. Other forum members have had no problems with their puck style, but I have only driven stock clutches so I have no idea how they drive. A turbo friend of mine @lsvtecturbo has the stage 4 Exedy clutch and I am assume loves it. Can anyone help here. I have been researching this for several days now and am now more confused than when I started.

3. What gauges are truly needed for a turbo/supercharged driven car? I have seen A/F ratio, boost, oil pressure, and even oil temperature. Can I get by with only two of these? I realize everyone has their own preference, but it is my goal to keep my car alive as long as I can.

Thank you very much for your help. I didn't want to create a new thread and get flamed for not researching other threads. I have read every thread on the forced induction forums on both sites now and researched heavily using google. Experience would be great now if at all possible. Thank you, and have an outstanding day!
 
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I don't know much about the forced induction choices for our cars but always buy more reliable because that 600$ will be worth it, instead of buying that 300$ part that fails and ends up costing you double plus a headache
 
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