What brake rotors do y'all recommend?

fg3_colton

fg3_colton

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Tampa
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Civic, LX
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Coupe
I'll start by saying, I do not have an SI and really don't need anything too performance oriented. What I do need are new rotors (one of them is grooved, the other is warped) that are slightly better than OEM. I plan on getting Duralast Gold Ceramic pads from the AutoZone I work at (can't beat that lifetime warranty). With that in mind, what rotors would y'all recommend that don't break the bank lol. My budget is flexible if they are worth it btw.

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Centric/Wagner/Raybestos blanks from RockAuto. They range from $15-35 per rotor. It's the cheapest place to get them. They are on par with OEM rotors for quality. There really isn't much "better" out there although the Brembo blanks tend to have a nicer fit and finish to the. What year/trim do you have?

Those Duralast pads are going to be awful dusty. I would spend the extra coin and get new OEM pads from Honda. They run like $50 but are really worth it. I've tried the cheap pads before and they suck and the dust like heck. The $30 saved isn't worth it and fronts are very easy to do yourself.

However, there are set screws in the OEM rotors holding them onto the hub. Those can be a massive PITA to take off. You may also need a set of "jacking bolts" to help push the old rotor off the hub. It tends to get on there pretty hard.

Let us know if you want to attempt it yourself. I highly suggest you do, it's easy enough, there are a ton of online guides, and it'll save you loads of money. I don't know how handy you are but if you can handle this job, it will save you $1000's in the future on this car and other vehicles you might own.

TLDR - what year & trim do you have? Do you want to tackle this yourself?
 
I know a handful of non-si users have changed to "centric" blanks you can find on Amazon.com or through tirerack.
 
I'll echo what he said about cheaper pads from places like autozone. A shop installed them on my wife's car before. They didn't even stay on the car but a couple hundred miles and they were replaced with oem Honda pads. The oem pads didn't dust as bad and they didn't make crazy noise constantly.
 
Nix said:
Centric/Wagner/Raybestos blanks from RockAuto. They range from $15-35 per rotor. It's the cheapest place to get them. They are on par with OEM rotors for quality. There really isn't much "better" out there although the Brembo blanks tend to have a nicer fit and finish to the. What year/trim do you have?

Those Duralast pads are going to be awful dusty. I would spend the extra coin and get new OEM pads from Honda. They run like $50 but are really worth it. I've tried the cheap pads before and they suck and the dust like heck. The $30 saved isn't worth it and fronts are very easy to do yourself.

However, there are set screws in the OEM rotors holding them onto the hub. Those can be a massive PITA to take off. You may also need a set of "jacking bolts" to help push the old rotor off the hub. It tends to get on there pretty hard.

Let us know if you want to attempt it yourself. I highly suggest you do, it's easy enough, there are a ton of online guides, and it'll save you loads of money. I don't know how handy you are but if you can handle this job, it will save you $1000's in the future on this car and other vehicles you might own.

TLDR - what year & trim do you have? Do you want to tackle this yourself?
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I have a 2014 LX Coupe with a CVT. She's just my daily driver hence why I don't really want something performance oriented just smooth and quiet. And I do plan on changing them myself, looks like I'll be calling my dealer for pads then lol. Thanks for the info y'all!

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Nice man, be ready for those set screws. You will either need an impact screwdriver or just drill the heads off of them. No need to replace them with the new rotors either.
 
Nix said:
Nice man, be ready for those set screws. You will either need an impact screwdriver or just drill the heads off of them. No need to replace them with the new rotors either.
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:yeahthat:

The best way to remove them is by putting penetrating oil and allowing it to soak for a while (1/2 hour or so), then start pounding the screw with a screw bit and a hammer to break the threads loose. If that doesn't work, get the torch ready and heat around the screw heads for a couple of minutes. Drilling them out can be annoying, but that should be the last resort.
 
Dar-Dar said:
:yeahthat:

The best way to remove them is by putting penetrating oil and allowing it to soak for a while (1/2 hour or so), then start pounding the screw with a screw bit and a hammer to break the threads loose. If that doesn't work, get the torch ready and heat around the screw heads for a couple of minutes. Drilling them out can be annoying, but that should be the last resort.
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And I won't need them afterwards?? Have yet to do a brake job on this car since I bought it new, now y'all got me excited. Love a good challenge lol

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fg3_colton said:
And I won't need them afterwards?? Have yet to do a brake job on this car since I bought it new, now y'all got me excited. Love a good challenge lol

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Your call. Lol. It's optional. I put mine back, but I made sure the threads are applied with a generous amount of anti-seize lube and the screws aren't torqued on too much.
 
fg3_colton said:
And I won't need them afterwards??

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Their only purpose is to make sure the rotor stays on while going down the assembly line.
 
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