Where to start?

PainSoFamiliar

PainSoFamiliar

Well-Known Member
477
263
San Diego, CA
Vehicle Model
Civic LX
Body Style
Coupe
Hey guys basically I just want a 12" in my trunk.
However, I have no idea where to start. My price range is about 200 for amp,12", and wires all together.
 
That's a very tall order.. If $200 is your budget you should see what walmart has to offer or search Craigslist for something used. You might get lucky on Craigslist. $200 at walmart will get the things you listed but it won't yield quality sound. Also do you have an aftermarket head unit yet? If you're staying with the stock CD player you'll need to get an output converter for it.
 
First of all, do you have a drill, and are comfortable removing interior panels, seats, and the like to run the wire to the trunk>? You need to run a power wire from the battery ( locate the fuse within 18" of the battery, preferably as close as practical ) to the trunk.

Then you need an ignition controlled wire run to turn on the amplifier, when the ignition is turned on. You also need a line output converter to feed the amplifier an audio signal, this can be tied into the rear speaker wires in the trunk. You can ground the amplifier to a spot on the chassis close to the amplifier in the trunk.

If you aren't comfortable doing all of the installation, it will cost you more than $ 200 in labor to have the job done properly, not including the parts. At a minimum for most small amplifiers, you are going to need ~ 15-17 feet of 8 gauge wire ( red for positive ) as well as 2-3 feet of black wire for ground, 20 feet wire loom ( 1/4" - 3/8" ) electrical tape, grommet for the firewall ( assuming there are no blank open ones ) a fuse block and fuse, tie-wraps, etc.

You can buy used gear, but if you don't know what you are getting into, you could end up spending a lot more than you planned to get what you want.
 
Is your father a mechanic? Running high current wires near the vehicle computer or airbag system can cause inductance ( voltage ) in the other systems. Worst case scenario that is possible, having the airbag go off in inadvertently.
 
Do you think 200 is too small of a budget? I'm just looking for a simple sub to increase bass can maybe stretch to 250 but I'm a kid with limits! haha
 
Michael Hurd said:
Is your father a mechanic? Running high current wires near the vehicle computer or airbag system can cause inductance ( voltage ) in the other systems. Worst case scenario that is possible, having the airbag go off in inadvertently.
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He is not. However, he does build computers as a side thing. And he also has mechanic friends he could probably call for some assistance
 
Ok, sounds great, but $ 250 is even a very tight budget with a used sub and amp. If you bought an amplifier installation kit ( you need wire and a fuse holder anyways... ) most are in the $60 range. Add in a line output convertor and you are around 80 bucks at least before taxes. You still don't have an amplifier and a sub with a box. A decent 10" in a small sealed box will fit the needs of most people, unless you are a bass head.
 
This is something that you and your father should be able to yourselves. There is a lot of information out there these days especially on YouTube.. Take your time. Be careful. You can fry an amp pretty easily if you hook it up to a live power wire incorrectly because you got excited and tried to do it fast lol..
 
bdh63 said:
This is something that you and your father should be able to yourselves. There is a lot of information out there these days especially on YouTube.. Take your time. Be careful. You can fry an amp pretty easily if you hook it up to a live power wire incorrectly because you got excited and tried to do it fast lol..
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You could also burn the car to the ground if you don't use a properly sized fuse and wiring, as well as taking care to ensure that the jacket on the wire can't be melted or pinched! Probing with a test light / tapping into an airbag circuit inadvertently can cause airbag deployment and decapitation!

Hint: on every vehicle the wiring for the airbag is yellow, and has yellow looming / yellow connectors... whatever you do, don't go near it or probe it.

There is a reason that mobile electronics installers are certified...
 
Having a functional car is cooler than having one that you can't put a single thing in the trunk and having rattles... been there and done that. I have had many systems over the years, and in my first competition 2 years ago, hit 149.7 with a single 12" in a ported box on a 1000 watt amp, with a stock alternator and battery.

You can't have it all. With lots of low end, the stock front speakers can't keep up, so you end up changing them out, putting an amp on them as well. Then you start to chase down rattles, spending time pulling off panels, applying foam tape and dynamat and other products... it becomes a real bear chasing noises down in a loud daily driver.

The cost of the raw materials in producing a 10" driver vs a 12" if the motor and coil stays the same isn't much different in terms of production, since it's simply a basket and cone / surround change. Manufacturers charge a few bucks more to go from a 10 to a 12" driver though.

See what's posted in your market in the used classifieds. You might even be able to pick up a sealed box / sub and amp combo.
 
PainSoFamiliar said:
Yikes. How much cheaper is a 10" as compared to a 12?
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You should probably look around quite a bit. The sub isn't the most expensive part. The amp will be the most expensive. Finding the right one for the right price is tricky. I would honestly go to crutchfields website it's very informative.. Once you know what you're looking for go find it on eBay or amazon. Find the sub locally. Build your own box if you can to save money for the other stuff. In a brief search of my local Craigslist I found multiple used subs already in boxes that would fit your budget. You have many options but patience is key with your budget.
 
Honestly I use sonicelectronix.com I think they have the perfect balance of reputation vs cost. Crutchfield just isn't useful on a budget. In either event I started with an amp, 10 inch sub, sealed box, and wiring kit for $200 as part of a bass package.
 
Bulkybear said:
Honestly I use sonicelectronix.com I think they have the perfect balance of reputation vs cost. Crutchfield just isn't useful on a budget. In either event I started with an amp, 10 inch sub, sealed box, and wiring kit for $200 as part of a bass package.
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We were not saying to buy from critchfield, but use it for information on what he wants to get.
 
As I'm doing research I see that the amps and subs are at certain ohms. I used to be a headphone guy so I know the higher the ohm the more power it needs. Does this mean a 4ohm amp will not sufficiently power a 8ohm sub?
 
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