Anyone know how to replace the studs for our cars? Went to my friends friend to buy his used tire because I didn't want to buy a new one because I was gonna get a new set of wheels. So my car was running for a good 30min. To get to the place. Right away he worked on it and it seemed fine but car was hot (so wheels were warm too.) He used an impact to remove the lug nuts. Finished the job. Paid him. 2 weeks later I tried to take off the nut but it won't come loose. I knew it was gonna be stripped and I was right. The thread looked like it melted. Maybe from mounting the lug nut when it was still hot and did it in an angle way with the impact gun? How much does this cost to replace? Or any site I can go to, so I can do it?
Studs on my Si stripped
- Thread starter Si23
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Enigma346
Well-Known Member
Sounds like he cross threaded the lugs back on. Were you able at all to get any off? Or even all?
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@CollegeHillsHonda or someone else may be able to pick this apart. I'm not sure if it's #19 in the diagram or not.... sometimes I can't make them out. This is for the 2012 si front
http://www.collegehillshondaparts.c...ront-brake-2-4l-scat/?part_number=90113sa0006
http://www.collegehillshondaparts.c...ront-brake-2-4l-scat/?part_number=90113sa0006
Twitch
Well-Known Member
It's #19. There are a few different brands available.
I've never done it because on our cars you need to remove the hub from the bearing. Not something I am able to do at home. I've done this once on my 2012 and once on my 2001. Cross threaded and snapped the stud both times. Local tire shop has done the labor for about $75 each time. It's worth it to me to not mess up the hub or bearing.
It may be possible to do it another way but I don't know how. I've seen people on you tube grind the edge of the stud, freeze them, and then pound them in from behind. Sounds like a lot of work when a legit shop can do it in 30 min or less.
I've never done it because on our cars you need to remove the hub from the bearing. Not something I am able to do at home. I've done this once on my 2012 and once on my 2001. Cross threaded and snapped the stud both times. Local tire shop has done the labor for about $75 each time. It's worth it to me to not mess up the hub or bearing.
It may be possible to do it another way but I don't know how. I've seen people on you tube grind the edge of the stud, freeze them, and then pound them in from behind. Sounds like a lot of work when a legit shop can do it in 30 min or less.
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Twitch
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Link? I guess I'm over complicating it.
RobOscar4
Well-Known Member
I can speak for the rears. I just replaced one this past week. I paid $1.85/each at my local Honda Dealership for the studs (like you mentioned, there are several different brands so I just got the one they had in stock). To remove (on the rear) start by taking the caliper and rotor off. You might have to drill out the rotor screws to get it off (I did, I stripped the heads immediately).
Then when its just the hub exposed, just beat the old one out with a hammer. I've seen people say to use an old lug nut on the end to broaden the striking surface area but I just went for it since it was a crap stud and it was out in 2-3 hits. You may have to rotate the hub a little to find the sweet spot to fully pull the old stud out from the back, but it will come out easily. Then, slide the new one in from the back (same sweet spot) and put several flat washers (i used fender washers) stacked up on the stud. Then use an good, open-back lug nut to snug up on the washers.
At this point, I had to prop a 2x4 between good studs and resting on the ground to stop the hub from spinning while tightening (no parking brake available). Then you just slowly tighten down on the washers and it should pull the new stud into the hub. I got it as flush on the back side of the hub as I could and then reinstalled the rotor, brake caliper and wheel. When I torqued the lug nuts, I noted which one had the new stud and checked the torque again after a day or so to tighten it back up again. Everything seems to hold up so far!
Again, this is just for the back. I can't speak for the fronts. So hopefully this helps you.
Then when its just the hub exposed, just beat the old one out with a hammer. I've seen people say to use an old lug nut on the end to broaden the striking surface area but I just went for it since it was a crap stud and it was out in 2-3 hits. You may have to rotate the hub a little to find the sweet spot to fully pull the old stud out from the back, but it will come out easily. Then, slide the new one in from the back (same sweet spot) and put several flat washers (i used fender washers) stacked up on the stud. Then use an good, open-back lug nut to snug up on the washers.
At this point, I had to prop a 2x4 between good studs and resting on the ground to stop the hub from spinning while tightening (no parking brake available). Then you just slowly tighten down on the washers and it should pull the new stud into the hub. I got it as flush on the back side of the hub as I could and then reinstalled the rotor, brake caliper and wheel. When I torqued the lug nuts, I noted which one had the new stud and checked the torque again after a day or so to tighten it back up again. Everything seems to hold up so far!
Again, this is just for the back. I can't speak for the fronts. So hopefully this helps you.
Twitch
Well-Known Member
Hmmm. I'll have to look at this again this weekend
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Yep, what I did was took off the front caliper, remove the rotors, and move the wheel where I can see it and bend the brake dust collector to remove it. Cut a little piece of the head of the new stud so I can insert it and then just tighten it. That's all I did
No vehicle do you have to remove the hub to replace studs, simple caliper/rotor removal will give enough access to get it done as @Si23 stated. Done it on just about every brand of car and the problem happens a lot from stretching the stud due to over torquing the lugs. Had a prius at work the other day that needed all 10 front studs/lugs from this issue at 150k miles.
Toyota's pay 1.5-2.0 hrs lol, had a 4 Runner that went to Tire Kingdom for rims, had the wrong pitch lugs hammered on on all 24 studs and the last wheel they couldn't even seat them to the wheel. Came to us for a vibration and ended up replacing them all in 2 hours and charged almost 10 per "recommended time" lol score!
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They don't do it by the book, when you get payed flat rate you try to do it as fast as possible..yea they still do a professional job(most times) but it usually isn't text book. Techs find shortcuts over time and if they didn't they wouldn't really make money....that's why people complain about getting charged an hour when it only takes the tech 30 minutes to do the job...the head tech at my old job used to bang out 19-25 hours of work a day, when it wasn't the slow season of course which is usually winter being that Honda's aren't too good in the snow
Twitch
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the clarification. In learning to trust my father in law less and less... Good info all around.