2012 Civic Coupe EX Build

Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by Verzerrung, May 13, 2018.

  1. sunofwolf

    sunofwolf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    898
    Vehicle Model:
    honda SI 2013 35% tinted Hondata coupe 136+mph! SRT-4 180+! VFR-800-11750 rpm 10.9 1/4 130+! Neon 2001!
    Body Style:
    coupe
    Koni hand made strut inserts are dampers.
     
  2. sunofwolf

    sunofwolf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    898
    Vehicle Model:
    honda SI 2013 35% tinted Hondata coupe 136+mph! SRT-4 180+! VFR-800-11750 rpm 10.9 1/4 130+! Neon 2001!
    Body Style:
    coupe
    I just bought $500 worth of special summer tires the FireHawks that perform almost as well as Michlins sports 4-those are way over priced at $190 each!
     
  3. Verzerrung

    Verzerrung Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Yucaipa, CA
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    Got around to cleaning up the passenger side wheelhouse piece. It is not perfect, bu hopefully it should workout fine.
    [​IMG]
     
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  4. Verzerrung

    Verzerrung Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Yucaipa, CA
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    Not really update, but I wanted to get some opinions what you guys think is a good route to take on this. I got a better photo of the damage. Do you guys think the rail can be pulled straight? I have the red core support and on the passenger side of the core support I still have a bit of the unirail left (I cut it there and the spot welds are still in tact). I was thinking I could maybe cut behind the unirail where the damage was and then have someone weld the new support unirail on. Hopefully you guys get what I mean, not the best at describing this. I know the structural integrity might not be the best, but would it work?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. webby
    • Staff
    • 2018 Toys For Tots

    webby Administrator

    Messages:
    50,003
    I can’t see that being straightened personally. Maybe someone else can chime in
     
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  6. bauer311
    • Supporting Member

    bauer311 Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,404
    Location:
    Fayetteville, NC
    Vehicle Model:
    civic ex
    Body Style:
    coupe
    It's definitely gonna need replaced after looking at it some more. there's no way a body shop can pull that out. But that's my two cents.
     
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  7. sunofwolf

    sunofwolf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    898
    Vehicle Model:
    honda SI 2013 35% tinted Hondata coupe 136+mph! SRT-4 180+! VFR-800-11750 rpm 10.9 1/4 130+! Neon 2001!
    Body Style:
    coupe
    that's some beat up mess:iorun:
     
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  8. Verzerrung

    Verzerrung Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Yucaipa, CA
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    I think what I might just do is cut the unirail right before the damaged area and since the red core support has the passenger side unirail attached I'll measure it up and make sure it aligns and see if I can't find someone to weld it all the around. I know it probably isn't worth doing any of this, but I already have the parts so whats the worst that can happen. :thumb: Thanks for the input guys!
     
  9. bauer311
    • Supporting Member

    bauer311 Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,404
    Location:
    Fayetteville, NC
    Vehicle Model:
    civic ex
    Body Style:
    coupe
    I think that plan will work, I'm just not sure how "legal" it is to weld on the unibody like that. I guess what no one knows won't hurt them, just food for thought. But go for it, clean up the weld good and smooth things out and no one should be able to tell. Good luck brotha, like you said you got the parts already.
     
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  10. Verzerrung

    Verzerrung Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Yucaipa, CA
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    I think be getting around to the frame in the next month or somewhere around there. I got the LED bulbs and installed them into the map light I installed earlier. Removed the seats, going to remove the rails and clean them up. I also did a wire tuck on the passenger side since there was a lot of cut wires in the harness. I used flux, soldered and heat shrinked the wires. I will post a photo later since I'm still waiting for wiring loom so I can clean it up.

    Update: I will be getting my 9th back on Wednesday hopefully.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2019
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  11. webby
    • Staff
    • 2018 Toys For Tots

    webby Administrator

    Messages:
    50,003
    making some serious progress man. Good stuff
     
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  12. bauer311
    • Supporting Member

    bauer311 Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,404
    Location:
    Fayetteville, NC
    Vehicle Model:
    civic ex
    Body Style:
    coupe
    Nice work, keep up the progress!
     
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  13. Verzerrung

    Verzerrung Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Yucaipa, CA
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    My dad helped me out and we got quite a bit done today. We tried to pull the rail and it just wasn't working so in the next few days (or week(s)) we will be working on cutting the rail and trying to match them up as best we can. Nothing was welded, just test fitted. You can see the rail before and after when we tried to pull it.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  14. bauer311
    • Supporting Member

    bauer311 Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,404
    Location:
    Fayetteville, NC
    Vehicle Model:
    civic ex
    Body Style:
    coupe
    If nothing else it seems like it will be easier to make your cut for replacement.
     
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  15. Verzerrung

    Verzerrung Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Yucaipa, CA
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    That's the best option I see in this situation as well. I'm trying to figure out the best way to get the most accurate and even measurements on all four sides of the rail.
     
  16. Verzerrung

    Verzerrung Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Yucaipa, CA
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    I decided to leave the rail alone, it is outside of my knowledge. There is only one bolt on the left side rail and it is angled, but it should hopefully hold the support in place. If I cut the rail I would have new issues that I may not be able to come back from. The passenger wheelhouse is on and it looks good. Here is a photo of the car as it sits right now. This is purely mocked up, nothing is welded. I'm not sure why there is so much space between the corner lights, but I doubt that is an issue with the fitment.
    [​IMG]
     
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  17. supadupaozil

    supadupaozil Member

    Messages:
    14
    really enjoying this build keep it up
     
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  18. Verzerrung

    Verzerrung Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Yucaipa, CA
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    Thanks man, appreciate the support!

    Nothing has been welded in, but the passenger side wheelhouse I put a self tapping screw in to hold it where I need it for now until I can get it welded. That being said, everything is bolted up and there is no give in the support. PIC HEAVY. Just wanted to show some before and afters of how it was. I know it isn't the best, but I believe it is at least a little better than it was. The gaps between the fenders, hoods, bumper and headlights are driving me nuts trying to get it as good as possible, but I'll continue to get that as close as I can later on. The passenger side bumper is sagging. (broken clip)

    Before Photos: When I got the car
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Now:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. ron v

    ron v The good, the bad, and the booty

    Messages:
    3,605
    Location:
    Escondido
    Vehicle Model:
    Hot fuego
    Body Style:
    Coupe and hatch
    Looking good man. Nice progress. Yea that rail end is done.
     
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  20. webby
    • Staff
    • 2018 Toys For Tots

    webby Administrator

    Messages:
    50,003
    I've done a number of retrofits on other hondas and there is usually a bit of play in 3 or 4 different places on headlight mounts. On ones I've done there is usually a headlight frame mount on the far side by the fender, one below the light, and one or two on the top of the light. The holes on the light frame are usually bigger than just a standard bolt hole. If you loosen each one of those up slightly, you can get a little wiggle room in each direction usually. From there it is just a matter of doing a little tightening at each spot while holding the light in whatever direction needs a gap tightened up. It can take a little trial and error, but you can usually improve the gaps that may be bugging you (at least a little). You mentioned the fender clip being broken, so that will also help when you get that swapped.

    light.png
     
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