Need Help With Harness Wires for 2012 Si With Premium Audio

9thgizzyguy said:
Under the seat youll have to split remote power ground and speaker wires lol
Then unbolt the seat bracket to run underneith ........its just a head ache and makes the process longer and harder lol

Plus if somthing ever goes wrong its in the trunk and easy acess not unbolting your seat and stuff
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The effort to install and length of time is not a big deal. I am super meticulous when it comes to cleanliness of installing anything. Not just car audio. I am trying to avoid filling up the trunk as much as possible. As it stands, I may only put a single shallow mount 8" sub in. I don't need it to be crazy thumping loud. Just well balanced. I would also make it easily removable. the following combination seems to be well reviewed.

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Ive never done that and had a problem with any of my installs and not sure it should be done in my opinoin but i say when everything is installed correctly try it with radio hanging still not in the dash yet with and without that wire connected and if you dont notice a difference then just leave it off ....i mean that what id do but your stereo lol
 
9thgizzyguy said:
Ive never done that and had a problem with any of my installs and not sure it should be done in my opinoin but i say when everything is installed correctly try it with radio hanging still not in the dash yet with and without that wire connected and if you dont notice a difference then just leave it off ....i mean that what id do but your stereo lol
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The reason I ask is that the guy from MicroBypass says that feedback from the amp could interfere with the parking brake bypass. It was his recommendation. I just wanted a second opinion.
 
Ive done a setup like that before and my opinion is if your gonna just do the sub then fine it'll give it alil more depth with the bass but if your gonna do after market speakers all around then amp them that box is not gonna be enough to balance out bass mid and treble ....your inside speakers are gonna over power that box it being a flat sub and not that much power can be put to it .

Id say one 12" in a single band pass box wont take up alot of room and itll match bass mid and treble .
 
Like i said try it both ways and see for yourself then you make the call on that but if it makes no diff then just leave it off
 
9thgizzyguy said:
Like i said try it both ways and see for yourself then you make the call on that but if it makes no diff then just leave it off
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Just connected all the blues. It works!
Oddly, I don't have the rear speakers in right now, but it seems to sound better already with just the stock fronts, stock sub, and stock amp. :confuzzled:

I still have a lot of work to do to finish this whole project, though.

Thank you for all your help, insight, and patience. This goes for everybody! :hail:
 
Not a problem bro thats why we are all here .....to help each other out :spinning:
 
Backup camera is up and running and the AV input is working!

Just need to figure out how to run/hide all the wires for the AV input. I may have to put in a USB hub, though. Right now the phone to AV input solution is utilizing the USB input for the head unit.
 
Rear speakers are in. What a royal pain. Only to have to troubleshoot now. The left is throwing out a...not quite hissing...more like "shhhhh" sound. Gonna have to swap them tomorrow and make sure it is not the head unit. Actually, I think I will just plug a stock one in real quick. I had them out before I put the head unit in.

Let this be a lesson to all. Plug your speakers in first to test them before installing them. Especially when it is going to be a royal pain in the *** to install them.
 
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Might want to check the fader, and move the sound around to each side to see how they're sounding individually through the head unit.
 
webby said:
Might want to check the fader, and move the sound around to each side to see how they're sounding individually through the head unit.
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Yeah. Did that. Everything is working now. I think the preout wire was loose.

On the other hand. I totally lost the display on the iMid. :eek: :confuzzled: :( :mad:

Not sure what happened. I did kill the battery. Was listening to the stereo too long without the car on. Might have also had something to do with the fact that the lights are on auto and on. I killed the battery once before this way just after I first got the car.

It's late now. I will check the fuse tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I will disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and try that. Otherwise, it will be off to the dealership and hope it doesn't result in an argument due to the wiring for the aftermarket head unit.
 
Just to verify, ...the imid was working earlier today or yesterday?
 
webby said:
Just to verify, ...the imid was working earlier today or yesterday?
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Yes. Just before the battery died a warning for the power steering came on I think...similar to what happened last time it died. The head unit has been in and working for a few days. NO problems with the iMid until the battery just died. Jumped the car and everything is fine except for the iMid. Completely black...
 
another user had a similar issue caused by a ground/power wire short. They lost their imid screen and nothing else.
I have fixed this issue.

There was one fuse that was blown and it was the BACKUP FUSE in the fuse box located next to the engine. It turns out my Kenwood GPS system had the ground wire and power wire loose which caused a short on this system. I tightened the wire after discovering this, replaced the fuse with a spare one and everything is functional!!
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webby said:
another user had a similar issue caused by a ground/power wire short. They lost their imid screen and nothing else.
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Interesting. I do know that I have no bare wires. I used heat shrink tubing on the harness wires. Anything else not capped was taped off with electrical tape. I will double check everything, though.
 
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