New here guys!!!!!

Just running the reflash is going to run super rich till you tune it so that may be why your getting all these codes. If the car was running fine with the stock calibration I would leave that till your get a proper tune. I would wait for a DP if you don't have one to start tuning. Also if your running a 3.5" intake with no tune be mindful of possible damage to your catalytic converter from excessive fuel burning due to MAF readings being skewed. Not sure the reflash is specific for just intake mods or intake/dp or just dp or whatever combo your running. It's made to just have your car run till you get it tuned properly. I did a test with my PRL Short ram and this is what I saw through my obd scanner.

Darkout said:
I threw on my PRL short ram the other night with no FP just for a visual and curiosity on sound and NO I did not keep it on or run it long. Sounds mean and looks great but I plugged in my scan tool to read the PID data as I ran the car so I could understand how bad the car actually ran. Yea don't ever run a 3.5" with no tune if you care for your car. Fuel trims almost 50% rich and my cat went from 400 to 1200F in just over a minute burning all the extra fuel. You WILL cause damage with no tune. Just thought I'd share that
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Darkout said:
Just running the reflash is going to run super rich till you tune it so that may be why your getting all these codes. If the car was running fine with the stock calibration I would leave that till your get a proper tune. I would wait for a DP if you don't have one to start tuning. Also if your running a 3.5" intake with no tune be mindful of possible damage to your catalytic converter from excessive fuel burning due to MAF readings being skewed. Not sure the reflash is specific for just intake mods or intake/dp or just dp or whatever combo your running. It's made to just have your car run till you get it tuned properly. I did a test with my PRL Short ram and this is what I saw through my obd scanner.
Click to expand...

I took that back I mean the PRL setting it reflashed with a stock one.

So what I did was return ecu to stock (o don't know why is emission on if I put the ecu on stock)
 
You can pull your batt negative off for 10-15 min and do an ecu reset to clear the codes (I thought you could do that with flashpro). If it's a consistent problem it'll pop the light back on and you may have done this. You could have an emissions code from not tightening your fuel cap all the way after a fill or have dirt around the gas cap seal. I would check the gas cap first and try to clear the light. If it comes back on then figuring out the code P**** will help point in the right direction.
 
Darkout said:
You can pull your batt negative off for 10-15 min and do an ecu reset to clear the codes (I thought you could do that with flashpro). If it's a consistent problem it'll pop the light back on and you may have done this. You could have an emissions code from not tightening your fuel cap all the way after a fill or have dirt around the gas cap seal. I would check the gas cap first and try to clear the light. If it comes back on then figuring out the code P**** will help point in the right direction.
Click to expand...

Well know that you said this is off due that somebody is painting my spoiler, could that be it?

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No the fuel door doesn't seal anything. If you pull the cap of and look at it you'll see the rubber seal. You can see if there's grime on it and then the filler neck where they mate might have crap on it.
 
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Not much done but a filter here!!!

Waiting for the Mugen spoiler to get painted to install it next is rims!!!
 
Tomorrow I will post the picture of the Mugen spoiler installed!!!! Btw don't waste the time buying the one on eBay because it does not cover the hole where the cable of the brake light goes I had to add red vinyl to cover it!!!

Also installed base shift bushings and the short shifter (best mod eveeeeer)
 
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