Alberto's modest civic build

They're welding everything and put sealeant and other coatings, the car was supposed to be done Thursday 2/18 but apparently the sealeant nor the paint have dried, ill be picking it up tomorrow morning before work.

Direct quote from the body shop owner when i asked him if car would be ready today friday at noon.

<i> "I'm not going to promise u noon I want to make sure it drys fully because we had to put seam sealer in the quarter to make sure metal stays together" </i>


And i think id be getting bumped to street prepped?
 
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02/22/16

Installed my stoptech slottef rotors on front with akebono pads, eibach sway bars, megan racing strut brace , oem spec rear brakes, brake fluid exchange, and more stickers





 
1) to help with understeer

2) i like to spend money on things i don't need.
 
Yep , you should have went with a bigger rsb like the Progress 24mm and left the front one stock. The Eibach is barely thicker than the oem one.
 
Dang... well I'll see how it goes this AutoX season and buy parts accordingly.
 
What did you have done to your WRX?

WRB is the best color on a Subie :thumbsup:
 
For ultimate handlings.... remove the front sway completely.

Stock class lets you add 1 sway bar. They say nothing of removing a sway bar.

Thats racing. Not breaking the rules but finding what they don't explicitly say you can't do. Look up Smokey Yunick if you need more examples.
 
Nix said:
For ultimate handlings.... remove the front sway completely.

Stock class lets you add 1 sway bar. They say nothing of removing a sway bar.

Thats racing. Not breaking the rules but finding what they don't explicitly say you can't do. Look up Smokey Yunick if you need more examples.
Click to expand...

So no front sway bar is better than a sway bar set to soft on the front?
 
Alberto521 said:
Monthly payment was $600/mo , it wasn't bad when i lived with parents, but once i moved out it was bad. It was 100% stock.
Click to expand...
$600/month??!!!! Holy ****.

Did you not put anything down? Had to roll over another loan into the WRX loan? Damn!

It wasn't even an STi... What % interest? Damn that's crazy
 
Alberto521 said:
So no front sway bar is better than a sway bar set to soft on the front?
Click to expand...

For Auto-X yes. BUT.... the car will be tricky to control at highway speeds. It will get very very twitchy. I usually don't recommend anyone completely remove it since the car could become difficult and dangerous to drive. If you want it to handle better removing the front sway completely will help the car rotate better. I would seriously suggest not doing this. Leave the stock one on or get a smaller front bar.

Switching to a thinner front sway, say from an LX or EX car can help a bunch with balance. If the one you bought is the same size as the stock bar but has a soft setting then do that. I have not seen anyone try this route yet so I don't know if its possible but it should be and the parts to do it are pretty cheap. You would need the bar, model specific end links, and the mounting bushings. If it is a thicker bar you bought, it will effectively make the understeer worse even though the car will stay flatter with less body roll.



My car has the 22mm rear sway and the smallest front sway available. On the highway changing lanes you can sometimes feel the back end wanting to come around. It really only gets loose feeling over 75 mph. The faster you are going the more you will notice these type of problems. At low speeds there aren't enough forces to cause certain things to happen. Its still unsettling and I don't like to suggest people do things to their cars that could cause them to crash.
 
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