Mother Of All Whore Threads Non-VIP Edition v.1

I told myself “lazy weekend, no projects” turns out that was a lie, ended up polishing the lights which is really the last of the exterior cosmetic projects.

Used a restoration kit from Sylvania that has a UV resin you apply as the last step (cheated and used a 3m sanding kit that goes on a drill too), it worked pretty well but they are not kidding when they say you get one shot to apply it. Going to end up redoing the drivers side light at some point cause the coating could be better.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0543.jpeg
    IMG_0543.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 5
  • IMG_0851.jpeg
    IMG_0851.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 5
  • IMG_0852.jpeg
    IMG_0852.jpeg
    5.8 MB · Views: 5
  • IMG_0853.jpeg
    IMG_0853.jpeg
    2.2 MB · Views: 5
  • IMG_0854.jpeg
    IMG_0854.jpeg
    3.6 MB · Views: 5
So, on this week’s episode of how fvcked up is fvcked up, I spent some time finally finding a coolant leak on my Stealth I’ve been trying to track down for a good long while. Unfortunately, it was pretty much in the worst possible location.


A couple weekends ago, out of a desire to troubleshoot my A/C not working and believing I will need to pull my heater core as part of the repair process, I also set out to track down a small coolant leak I’ve been dealing with since reassembling my engine in 2020. I have looked for it before but every visible source was always dry; yet, there would be a puddle. Even using my borescope to look at the really hard to see areas, still everything was dry, yet there was a puddle. It wasn’t a fast leak, but definitely enough to be an issue if I kept driving the car. So, I set up the pressure tester:
IMG_9467.jpeg

Then, came back to it a few hours later to continue trying to find this darn leak (at first, I was thinking it sealed as it was visibly holding pressure and I wasn’t getting any drips); but, that hold for a few hours definitely showed it still leaked:

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/oW-klOxp80A?si=1fs9q7WxFOwb_oL-


So, over the course of the following week, I pulled more and more parts of the car out of the way, exhaust piping, transfer case, support brackets, etc. And still, all visible coolant sources were dry, yet, there was a puddle, but, with the transfer case out of the way, I could tell the leak was coming from the back side of the engine (there are a ton of coolant lines on this side) but everything above the transmission was dry, yet, there was a leak. And, I still couldn’t see it with my borescope. So, I did the only logical thing I could do, and pulled the PITA transmission out of the way.

And, for some reason, my images aren’t loading, but I’m expressing my frustration at pulling the trans from this car (it’s really not meant to be pulled without pulling the engine, but it can be done, it just sucks). Anyhow, I pulled the dust cover that is between the engine and transmission and confirmed my suspicions:
IMG_9484.jpeg

One of the freeze plugs on the back of the engine has failed. A mountain of work for a $5 part.

View: https://youtu.be/oJNsYJqFavY?si=VEtos3snU6rGHpbC


So, now that I’ve figured this out, I can finally get to trying to figure out my A/C issues. ‍:confused:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9485.jpeg
    4.2 MB · Views: 2
  • IMG_9483.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 2
Traded my coworker free car details for advertising his business on my car. Mostly for the drag races. Also got a hasport 70a upper torque mount installed. Interested to see if it actually does any thing. Noticed the innovative rear motor mount I installed a few years ago has softened up a lot. When it was first installed the car vibrated a lot. Or maybe I just got used to it because I checked it recently and the bushing doesn't look bad and has no movement. Also picked it up for drag racing next weekend.

Oh and I've currently made $440 selling used lawn mowers. I've only spent $10 on a can of carb cleaner. Unfortunately I do have 6 or 7 mowers that are scrap metal. If we end up getting the house I can actually strip the mowers and save more parts. Basically all the mowers I've sold have just needed new gas and the carb cleaned. I ended up keeping. One mower for my self because it runs super rich when it's cold and I can't seem to figure it out. Runs better when it warms up but still misses a bit. Works fine for me to cut the grass.
1000002383.jpg1000002385.jpg
 
Last edited:
AlmosN8kd said:
So, on this week’s episode of how fvcked up is fvcked up, I spent some time finally finding a coolant leak on my Stealth I’ve been trying to track down for a good long while. Unfortunately, it was pretty much in the worst possible location.


A couple weekends ago, out of a desire to troubleshoot my A/C not working and believing I will need to pull my heater core as part of the repair process, I also set out to track down a small coolant leak I’ve been dealing with since reassembling my engine in 2020. I have looked for it before but every visible source was always dry; yet, there would be a puddle. Even using my borescope to look at the really hard to see areas, still everything was dry, yet there was a puddle. It wasn’t a fast leak, but definitely enough to be an issue if I kept driving the car. So, I set up the pressure tester:
View attachment 67862

Then, came back to it a few hours later to continue trying to find this darn leak (at first, I was thinking it sealed as it was visibly holding pressure and I wasn’t getting any drips); but, that hold for a few hours definitely showed it still leaked:

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/oW-klOxp80A?si=1fs9q7WxFOwb_oL-


So, over the course of the following week, I pulled more and more parts of the car out of the way, exhaust piping, transfer case, support brackets, etc. And still, all visible coolant sources were dry, yet, there was a puddle, but, with the transfer case out of the way, I could tell the leak was coming from the back side of the engine (there are a ton of coolant lines on this side) but everything above the transmission was dry, yet, there was a leak. And, I still couldn’t see it with my borescope. So, I did the only logical thing I could do, and pulled the PITA transmission out of the way.

And, for some reason, my images aren’t loading, but I’m expressing my frustration at pulling the trans from this car (it’s really not meant to be pulled without pulling the engine, but it can be done, it just sucks). Anyhow, I pulled the dust cover that is between the engine and transmission and confirmed my suspicions:
View attachment 67864

One of the freeze plugs on the back of the engine has failed. A mountain of work for a $5 part.

View: https://youtu.be/oJNsYJqFavY?si=VEtos3snU6rGHpbC


So, now that I’ve figured this out, I can finally get to trying to figure out my A/C issues. ‍:confused:
Click to expand...

This is similar to the old 3.5L engines in the journey. Frost plug corroded a and leaks and the trans has to come out to replace it. I love that job. Pays wells. Lol.
 
Janz3n said:
This is similar to the old 3.5L engines in the journey. Frost plug corroded a and leaks and the trans has to come out to replace it. I love that job. Pays wells. Lol.
Click to expand...
Not when you're doing it yourself for your own car. It's more like saving myself a ton of money in labor, all for a $5 part. While I'm in there, I'll probably replace the other freeze plug for the other bank; but, I did order the freeze plugs for the sides of the block as well, just not sure I want to mess with them until they become a problem or not (those will likely involve pulling turbos which are their own level of pain (just different pain).
 
bootyluvr said:
Where you going this year?
Click to expand...
This year I'm going to Osaka and some of the surrounding cities in Western Japan. One of my friends recently went to the Air Force, and is angling to get stationed in Japan... so I also might be able to visit them there while on vacation. This'll probably be my last consecutive Japan trip; I want to go to Europe next year.
 
Honda-Fan said:
This year I'm going to Osaka and some of the surrounding cities in Western Japan. One of my friends recently went to the Air Force, and is angling to get stationed in Japan... so I also might be able to visit them there while on vacation. This'll probably be my last consecutive Japan trip; I want to go to Europe next year.
Click to expand...
Europe doesn't disappoint.

Did my transmission fluid today. Tried some gm synchromesh. Not sure if it's placebo effect but it shifter smoother on the way home. The upper torque mount helps a lot too. Test n tune on Saturday. Really hope I can beat my PB of 9.4s first hit. Really excited to do a burnout with water though.
 
Last edited:
Janz3n said:
Europe doesn't disappoint.

Did my transmission fluid today. Tried some gm synchromesh. Not sure if it's placebo effect but it shifter smoother on the way home. The upper torque mount helps a lot too. Test n tune on Saturday. Really hope I can beat my PB of 9.4s first hit. Really excited to do a burnout with water though.
Click to expand...
I tried Synchromesh in my Stealth's transmission many years ago and I wasn't overly impressed by it. I know guys would swear by it at the time (this was between 2005-2006 timeframe), and while it shifted easier in the winter when cold (I was in WA at the time), I think it caused more component (and synchro) wear in the end. I ended up going back to gear oil after I had to take the transmission apart for a busted 1/2 shift fork (and synchro replacement) around this same time.
 
AlmosN8kd said:
I tried Synchromesh in my Stealth's transmission many years ago and I wasn't overly impressed by it. I know guys would swear by it at the time (this was between 2005-2006 timeframe), and while it shifted easier in the winter when cold (I was in WA at the time), I think it caused more component (and synchro) wear in the end. I ended up going back to gear oil after I had to take the transmission apart for a busted 1/2 shift fork (and synchro replacement) around this same time.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that boost I confidence. Lol. Did you already have issues with the transmission before you used it though?
 
I think its just a placebo effect.....lol. Like back in the 8th gen days when everyone tried any and all different fluids which ended up with the same "results". It feels amazing/different at first then once the fluid "wears in" it's just like any other fluid.

Not sure if anyone ended up testing the fluids like an oil analysis so take it for what its worth, lol.
 
Janz3n said:
Thanks for that boost I confidence. Lol. Did you already have issues with the transmission before you used it though?
Click to expand...
Given that it was about 20yrs ago, it's hard to say for sure. But, nothing that I can think of. Bear in mind, this is a little bit of an apples-to-oranges comparison. The Honda MTF is A LOT thinner than the 75w90 that the Getrag transmission in my Stealth requires. So, I don't think you'll see as drastic of a change in things like I did running Synchromesh (I think it was just too thin when it was at operating temperature and that caused excess wear on things for me). I currently use Redline MT90 in that transmission and that has been the best stuff I've used thus far.
 
AlmosN8kd said:
Given that it was about 20yrs ago, it's hard to say for sure. But, nothing that I can think of. Bear in mind, this is a little bit of an apples-to-oranges comparison. The Honda MTF is A LOT thinner than the 75w90 that the Getrag transmission in my Stealth requires. So, I don't think you'll see as drastic of a change in things like I did running Synchromesh (I think it was just too thin when it was at operating temperature and that caused excess wear on things for me). I currently use Redline MT90 in that transmission and that has been the best stuff I've used thus far.
Click to expand...
Yes, the synchromesh is a bit thicker than the honda mtf. it just has to last until the end of summer before i sell the car. maybe.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top