2012 Civic Audio Wiring Guide & Pinouts For Factory Radio

bigjerm3284 said:
I'm looking at aftermarket ones. Any in specific I should be looking at?
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OEM is very cost prohibitive (thousands for a new unit). Aftermarket tends to have quality issues. You could look at aftermarket headunits with GPS built in, but you are probably better off with a standalone GPS.
 
I have a 2012 civic ex with navi but doesn't have the premium audio. I was wondering if you had wiring tables like the original ones posted for my unit? I attached some pics showing my 24p connection and back plane.
 

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So if I'm correct the best way to splice an loc into the premium system would be directly after headunit, which is before the premium sound system amp? I'm assuming you would splice the rear speakers also instead of the subwoofer wires? Thanks guy's this thread is awesome for when I plan to do my install. Also assuming that the 2015 si wiring is the same as other 9th gens with premium audio, correct?
 
I have the Non-Navi (so called) Premium Sound in my 2012 Ex. Anyone know if there is a crossover built onto the tweeters? Or is the signal for the tweets separated at the amp?
 
If you have the Premium sound option (Navi and Non-Navi), you must remove the factory amp. The factory amp is the cause of the horrible sound because of the built-in crossover frequencies inside the amp for the front, front tweeters, rear, and sub channel. You do not need an LOC because the outputs from the head unit are already a pre-amp line level output. Buy speaker wire-to-RCA adapters. You must use an amp that accepts differential balanced inputs because that is how the Premium sound is wired. The JL Audio XD series of amps are fully compatible. That is what an audio shop did with my '13 Civic. They removed the factory amp, converted the factory wires from the head unit to RCAs, and fed the front, rear, and sub channel to a JL XD700/5 amp. New component speakers in front, coaxials in the rear, and a custom 10" sub in the trunk. The factory sub was removed. It sounded awesome and I could control the sub level using the factory sub control in the head unit.

If you have the non-premium sound, then the head unit has a built-in 160w amp with regular four channel high-level speaker outputs (and fake tweeters with a frequency cap, if equipped, with no crossover). With non-premium, you would use an LOC to connect an amp, or use the high-level speaker outputs and inputs on a compatible amp. Most amps can accept a high-level speaker input. The non-premium system actually sounds better than the premium because it does not have the horrible amp destroying the sound. One thing is certain, Honda sound systems are really awful.
 
13blacksedan said:
If you use an loc, go off the sub because the rear speakers may have filters from the factory amp/hu
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Incorrect information. All outputs from the factory amp have filters because the crossovers are built into the amp. You will get horrible sound using an LOC on any channel after the factory amp because of Honda's lousy crossover frequencies inside the amp. You need to take the output directly from the head unit in a premium sound system, which is a pre-amp line level signal, but using differential balanced wiring, so a compatible amp is also necessary.
 
Hillstones said:
Incorrect information. All outputs from the factory amp have filters because the crossovers are built into the amp. You will get horrible sound using an LOC on any channel after the factory amp because of Honda's lousy crossover frequencies inside the amp. You need to take the output directly from the head unit in a premium sound system, which is a pre-amp line level signal, but using differential balanced wiring, so a compatible amp is also necessary.
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Note the "if", I said that because someone said they were getting nearly NO signal from the rear speakers, and I originally had my amp running high level input from the sub and it worked fine, but didn't play the VERY low notes and was often inconsistent... So it will work, just don't expect some great sq
 
13blacksedan said:
Note the "if", I said that because someone said they were getting nearly NO signal from the rear speakers, and I originally had my amp running high level input from the sub and it worked fine, but didn't play the VERY low notes and was often inconsistent... So it will work, just don't expect some great sq
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That is correct because of the differential balanced wiring and the fact that the outputs from the amp are all frequency filtered by the factory amp. No signal from the rear speakers was caused by the differential balanced wiring in the Honda and a non-compatible amp, and the lack of low notes and inconsistent sound was caused by the filtered signal from the amp output on the sub channel. If you do not get the proper sound quality or signal from the sub channel after the amp, then I would say that option does not work. Someone might think the sub is defective when they are giving it an improper signal, hoping to expect the correct sound.
 
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Any chance you have the 2015 pin outs or are they the same?
thank you
 
xXCiviXx said:
Anyone know where to get wiring harnesses for pre and post amp connectors? Figured it'd be easier to get those two, splice RCAs into pre amp harness and run those to my amps then run aftermarket amp output back to stock post amp connector so i dont have to run new wires to all my speakers.

Main reason I want the harnesses for those points is so i dont have to cut any wires and if I ever need to take my aftermarket system out it makes that a whole lots easier too.

PS would love a source that ships to Canada or sells in Canada
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yeah.... me too.....
 
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