2013 Civic "Premium Audio System" Navigation Stereo Upgrade

pukemon said:
so anybody upgraded a '14 si using basically the same method as OP? i am curious as i might be trading my '13 for a '14 and am really sick of the sound. it's time to man up and upgrade either way i keep the '13 or go '14.
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Did you read post #73? The external amps have almost identical part numbers so the wiring might be the same in the '14. If verified, then the wiring diagrams posted here for the '12 would be the same and you could do the same upgrade.
 
Hillstones said:
Did you read post #73? The external amps have almost identical part numbers so the wiring might be the same in the '14. If verified, then the wiring diagrams posted here for the '12 would be the same and you could do the same upgrade.
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Actually I read the whole thread. I recognize the amps are probably the same. The head unit is different. Might be a difference. If I trade in my civic this weekend I am going to request the wiring diagrams and compare. Just trying to find out if anybody has upgraded yet as I am pricing components now based on the similarities.
 
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pukemon said:
Actually I read the whole thread. I recognize the amps are probably the same. The head unit is different. Might be a difference. If I trade in my civic this weekend I am going to request the wiring diagrams and compare. Just trying to find out if anybody has upgraded yet as I am pricing components now based on the similarities.
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If the amps are the same, then it would use the same differential balanced wiring and likely the same pinouts for the audio. The head unit is different, but if using the same amp, the wiring would/should be identical.
 
Hillstones said:
If the amps are the same, then it would use the same differential balanced wiring and likely the same pinouts for the audio. The head unit is different, but if using the same amp, the wiring would/should be identical.
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Indeed. Guy on the other forum is in the process of a build on a 14 and it's still the same stuff. The new head unit is the only thing that was "upgraded" and that won't change a thing about how it sounds.
 
Hillstones said:
If the amps are the same, then it would use the same differential balanced wiring and likely the same pinouts for the audio. The head unit is different, but if using the same amp, the wiring would/should be identical.
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Yeah you're right. I was think too deep and thinking there might be some slight wiring changes. At worst there would be different color changes. And I won't be getting a '14 civic. The last white one in houston was sold out from under me. My salesman did tell me their whatever the guy's title was, ordered some '15 civics and they should be there as early as mid October. Don't know if he was bullshitting or not. From the way things are looking there might some incoming by November.
 
So upgrading the stock speakers front and back wouldnt make a difference ? Because its the amp? Or say i get 4 new speakers 2 fronts ans 2 backs leave the stock sub stock amp and hu itll sound the same?
 
budurka29 said:
Honestly i have mine screwed down to the trunk so if i get a flat and need a spare i need a drill to even get to it haha.
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uploadfromtaptalk1410383444104.jpg I used a plank of pine trim, painted it flat black and put Velcro on the plank. Set the box in as far as it would go then put the plank down in front. Doesn't move at all and if I need the spare I just pull everything out real quick.
 
First time post, please forgive any etiquette I may not know about...
I am new to this balanced output deal. I read the Rane's theory that was posted earlier and I came away thinking that the JL amp suggested originally would have a + - and a grd for each channel or at least each zone (front \ rear). But when I checked out the wire diagram for the amp it's a typical 2 wire setup. So why can't I just use my Kicker amp? I'm too cheap to pay someone to install this set up but I'm pulling my hair out trying to wrap my mind around this balanced / unbalanced situation. I appreciate any help! Thank you in advance.

In case it matters...I have 2 12" L7's powered by a Kicker 1200sx and a JL 7.5" component system powered by a Kicker 800sx. I'll have to get new rear deck speakers, I don't currently have them yet.
 
NateDaGreat58 said:
@Hillstones, how easy is it to get to your spare tire in the trunk now that you have the custom sub box in back? Does the sub get in the way?
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Incredibly easy. The sub does not get in the way at all. I lift the cover from the right side, and then remove it from the trunk. Full access to the spare tire.
 
FordGuyDrivingaHonda said:
First time post, please forgive any etiquette I may not know about...
I am new to this balanced output deal. I read the Rane's theory that was posted earlier and I came away thinking that the JL amp suggested originally would have a + - and a grd for each channel or at least each zone (front \ rear). But when I checked out the wire diagram for the amp it's a typical 2 wire setup. So why can't I just use my Kicker amp? I'm too cheap to pay someone to install this set up but I'm pulling my hair out trying to wrap my mind around this balanced / unbalanced situation. I appreciate any help! Thank you in advance.

In case it matters...I have 2 12" L7's powered by a Kicker 1200sx and a JL 7.5" component system powered by a Kicker 800sx. I'll have to get new rear deck speakers, I don't currently have them yet.
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From what I understand after reading many other posts on the subject, and on different forums, the output is different, in addition to the shield grounding. I don't believe the shield grounding is needed, but if the amp is not compatible with differential balanced outputs, you would need some other type of converter. Hopefully others can chime in. From my research, the JL Audio amps and higher end Infinity amps were compatible with differential balanced outputs.
 
Hillstones said:
From what I understand after reading many other posts on the subject, and on different forums, the output is different, in addition to the shield grounding. I don't believe the shield grounding is needed, but if the amp is not compatible with differential balanced outputs, you would need some other type of converter. Hopefully others can chime in. From my research, the JL Audio amps and higher end Infinity amps were compatible with differential balanced outputs.
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Yep, you'll just need something that accepts DBO before the amp (JL cleansweep, Rockford 3Sixty.3, etc.).
 
I have a question. I'm in the process of further upgrading my system and am trying to figure out if i need a line driver or not and what to get if i do need one. I installed a JL 10W3 powered by a JLJX500/1 and connected it through hi-level inputs at the stock sub harness about a month ago and i recently bought all new JL speakers and a JL JX 360/4 to power them. I want to use the pre amp output from the HU to connect to the amps so I can delete the stock amp then run my amplified outputs to the post amp harness to send the signal to my speakers and sub. I read here that the pre amp signal is 0.05V, is that enough for a good input to the amps or do i need line drivers to pump up the signal pre amp to get the most out of my system? i know i could always tap the post amp signal for hi-level inputs again, but i would rather go with low level inputs so i dont have to deal with the built in crossover of the stock amp.

Also, if i do go with the pre amp input without a line driver would i get a clean signal and just have to turn the HU volume up to get the power im looking for or is a line driver necessary?
 
You will need some type of converter because your JL amps do not accept a differential balanced input. The other guys here would know what you need.
 
Im pretty sure they accept diff balanced inputs cuz ive been running the 500/1 for over a month with no issues unless hi level inputs are no longer differential. If this is the case, then i will probably tap post amp signal and connect to hi level inputs until i get a line driver/LOC
 
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xXCiviXx said:
Im pretty sure they accept diff balanced inputs cuz ive been running the 500/1 for over a month with no issues
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I checked the specs. The JX series do not list compatibility with diff balanced inputs. The JL XDs do. You are running your 500/1 after the factory amp using the subwoofer harness in the trunk. That is completely different than removing the factory amp and using the diff balanced outputs directly from the head unit.
 
You might wanna bypass the factory amp with a dsp. That's was the route I plan on going. Just finances and time seem to be preventing it from happening at the miners.
 
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