2013 Civic "Premium Audio System" Navigation Stereo Upgrade

Oh I wasn't being sarcastic if that's what people thought. I was really thanking him for all the info and advice he gave me on the previous page.
 
xXCiviXx said:
When I installed mine I reused the sock speakers but cut the cone and bracket out and drilled holes to mount the new speaker in place. Since it would be easier than drilling into the door frame and would fit in the stock housing with the two clips and single bolt
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I honestly thought of that but it was attached like all the way around and i was thinking of reusing them for the back deck till i get another set. They were on sale at walmart for $50 crutchfield had them fo $80 so i didnt call or ask crutchfield :/ but i got 1 in spacers and it makes the door stick out a bit should have got the half inch 3/4 in would be perfect
 
I'm just adding a amp/sub and leaving the stock speakers, and before reading this I was planning on just tapping the rear speaker wire and using the speaker level input on my amp. Is this a bad idea sound quality wise? I'd rather not cut any wires from the factory harness or anything to run RCAs plus it's a lot more trouble. What about using an expensive LOC like the AudioControl LC2i?
 
Bad idea. The factory amp introduces all the messed up equalization. For example, the rear speakers do not have full range because of the horrible subwoofer. The front speakers do not have full range because of the built-in crossover for the front tweeters. So you would be pulling an altered signal for your subwoofer. Better to pull from the subwoofer output before the factory amp. Then you can control the subwoofer using the factory stereo setting.
 
Hillstones said:
Bad idea. The factory amp introduces all the messed up equalization. For example, the rear speakers do not have full range because of the horrible subwoofer. The front speakers do not have full range because of the built-in crossover for the front tweeters. So you would be pulling an altered signal for your subwoofer. Better to pull from the subwoofer output before the factory amp. Then you can control the subwoofer using the factory stereo setting.
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Yeah you're right. I have 2014 Si so I'm gonna try to do wire the RCAs before the factory amp. I just have to make sure the wiring is the same since they head unit is different in the 2014 they might have changed the wiring a bit.
 
taxidriver1138 said:
Yeah you're right. I have 2014 Si so I'm gonna try to do wire the RCAs before the factory amp. I just have to make sure the wiring is the same since they head unit is different in the 2014 they might have changed the wiring a bit.
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It uses the same external amp, so the wiring might be identical...but always safe to check first.
 
Does anyone have any pics of how the RCA is connected to the sub preamp wires? I can't seem to grasp how to connect because Each RCA cable has two wires right, so you have four wires total that need to be connected to the preamp wires, but for the sub theres only two since it's mono. Should I just run 1 RCA cable and then use a Y-adapter to connect to the amp.
 
So im in a pickle, my wires backed out of the harness and i don't know how to re pin it. Subwoofer channel is now dead, is there a work around? I'm in a 14 and that tiny wire is un spliceable without damaging it. There were about 6 strands inside and the pink one split from using a quick splice. The blue pulled out of its insulation and replacing it requires replacement of the entire dash harness.
 

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JBSmith29 said:
Can you show us what how the amp looks completely wired?
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Is that directed at my installation? Are you wanting to see a photo of the new amp installed under the seat, or do you want to see the wiring where the OEM amp was? I did not do the installation, it was professionally installed and they used the Honda wiring diagrams found on this site. I don't have time to remove the passenger seat to take photos, and I would imagine the wiring by the factory amp location is concealed by tape or tubing. The shop spliced the factory wiring at the OEM amp to RCA plugs for the new amp, used the factory remote turn on lead, and used an amp wiring kit to the battery. They also spliced into the factory speaker wiring to connect to the amp outputs for the new speakers. Just follow the wiring diagrams on this site.
 
JBSmith29 said:
Yeah, I would like to see the wires going into the aftermarket amp to kinda get a visual of the wires and the location of the amp.
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The amp is under the passenger seat. I can't get photos of the wiring. The JL amp is RCA inputs only. So the factory wiring was spliced to RCA cables and connected with the front, rear, and mono sub channels using the connections at the factory amp when it was removed. The factory remote turn on lead was used and the amp was wired directly to the battery. I don't know where they grounded it.
 
JonnyRotten said:
Great feedback @Hillstones. I didn't realize that the tension bars getting in the way was the reason that you are limited to what sub you use. Thanks so much for answering my question :thumbsup:
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Has anyone replaced the trunk lid springs with hydraulic pistons? I would like to put my sub in the rear deck, with a custom box. I did a quick search of the forum and didn't fine a thread.
 
Ding-Dong...the Civic is gone! I got rid of it and will never buy another Honda again thanks to their awful service. I traded it in and replaced it with a 2015 Nissan Altima SL. So much nicer of a car.
 
So after researching for a while I'm getting a little more clear response on what I would need for my system. I have a 2015 si with the premium audio and wish to add a single monoblock amp along with a subwoofer. I have no problem with the install itself except figuring out where to get the signal from. I understand that you need to splice rca outputs into the preamp wires behind the headunit before the stock crappy amplifier to avoid all the crossover issues. I've been looking at the rockford Fosgate balanced line driver, to balance out the signal which I believe would achieve my desire of hitting the low notes (30 - 20 hz) cleanly and loud instead of a slight rumble. Would this work? Would it be possible to just wire up an LOC then to the fosgate balanced line driver? If I did that could I wire the loc after the factory amp up to say the rear speakers and would the fosgate bld equalize out the signal? Or should I still splice into the pre amps behind the headunit? I don't have a problem with splicing the pre amps but would rather not if I don't have to lol. Just want the cleanest signal possible without buying a rockford processor or any other expensive sound processor for multiple channels when I would only need one. Thanks for the help this thread has helped with some issues with the inputs and such
 
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