2013 Civic "Premium Audio System" Navigation Stereo Upgrade

mySIck said:
Idk if I was looking at the wrong amp but it seems you are using a mono amplifier (1 Channel amp).
Some of the amplifiers on the market have a built in converter. Are you doing to run RCA cable's?
Click to expand...

I don’t remember if it’s a mono sound is clean just wanted to add that LC7i it’s just been sitting in my garage I was thinking of just splicing into the preamp behind the head unit no rca just some alligator clips or splicing em but after reading this entire thread I find myself lost on which pin to use lol should of never read any of it
 
Ralph619 said:
I don’t remember if it’s a mono sound is clean just wanted to add that LC7i it’s just been sitting in my garage I was thinking of just splicing into the preamp behind the head unit no rca just some alligator clips or splicing em but after reading this entire thread I find myself lost on which pin to use lol should of never read any of it
Click to expand...
All a LOC is used for is to convert a speaker level output signal into an RCA preamp level signal. This lets you connect the radio to the amplifier. It can also be used to connect a new radio to a car's factory amp. Most people just swap there head unit making LOC pointless. If the way you have it set up works I wouldn't worry about adding in a loc unless you are adding in more speakers.
 
Hillstones said:
Here is information to help anyone who is thinking about upgrading the "Premium Audio System" Navigation (and Non-Navigation) stereo in their Civic EX & EX-L Coupe and Si Sedan/Coupe. The "Premium Audio System" featured the external 360-watt amplifier with 7 speaker system, including a subwoofer. The premium audio system is pretty awful. The subwoofer and amplifier are useless. The amplifier is flawed because it has the frequency crossovers built-in for the front tweeters, rear speakers, and subwoofer. If you replace the speakers and keep the factory amplifier, you still get poor sound because of the internal crossovers in the amplifier. The solution is to remove the factory amplifier, speakers, and the subwoofer. The best part of the premium system is the head unit, because it is unpowered with pre-amp level outputs for the front, rear, and subwoofer. Most posts I read about stereo upgrades recommended a line out converter, even on the premium audio system, but an LOC is not necessary with the premium audio system. Since the head unit is unpowered, you do not need a line out converter. All you need to do is splice the factory speaker output wiring and convert them to RCA plugs to feed directly into an aftermarket amplifier. You can do this for the front, rear, and subwoofer outputs from the Premium Audio System head unit (Navigation and Non-Navigation). You do need an amplifier that is compatible with differential balanced outputs. JL Audio and Infinity make amps that accept differential balanced inputs.

This type of stereo upgrade is even easier by utilizing the 24-pin connector at the factory amplifier because it has the pre-amp level speaker outputs, subwoofer pre-amp level output, and amplifier remote turn-on lead from the Premium Audio head unit all in one harness. This is the harness you can use to splice the speaker and subwoofer wires to RCA plugs to feed directly into an aftermarket amp, including the remote turn-on lead. You can also use the 18-pin connector at the factory amplifier to feed those wires to the aftermarket amplifier speaker outputs. Then use the factory wiring to connect new speakers in the factory locations, and run a new wire to the aftermarket subwoofer installed in the trunk.

This was the type of upgrade I had done in my Civic EX-L Coupe with Premium Audio Navi. I wanted to keep the Navigation head unit because it offered all the features I needed and I wanted to retain the factory look and retain the audio information on the i-MID screen. I had installed stereos before when I was in college, but I did not have the experience to build a subwoofer box. I also wanted to have a professional shop do the installation, one that was familiar with Civics, knew how to do custom work, and a clean installation.

The JL Audio XD700/5 amplifier is perfect for the Civic. It is a 5 channel amp that accepts differential balanced inputs, and fits nicely under the passenger seat. It also has a subwoofer input. It offers plenty of power at 75w RMS for the front and rear, and 300w RMS for the subwoofer. The shop removed the factory amp and converted the wiring to RCA plugs and fed the pre-amp level speaker and subwoofer outputs directly into the amp. I can use the factory subwoofer level adjustment to control the level of the aftermarket subwoofer. The front and rear speakers are the Focal Integration series. The front speakers are 6 1/2 inch components and the rear speakers are 6 1/2 two-ways. The factory subwoofer was removed from the rear deck. A custom subwoofer box was built into the side of the trunk for a 10" JL Audio W3 subwoofer. I did not want to lose trunk space. The rear deck and entire trunk was lined with dynamat. Additional dynamat was used around all the speaker mounting openings. The shop did an amazing job with the tweeter installation in the front pillars, and the custom subwoofer enclosure in the trunk. The door and rear deck speakers are under the factory grilles since they are entire panels. The sound is incredible and everything works as intended. The subwoofer really rocks with clean, solid bass throughout the vehicle. Not boomy at all, which was what I was looking for. I listen to rock, classic rock, alternative, 80s alternative/new wave, jazz, new age, and a few rap hits here and there.

The same upgrade can be done with the Non-Navigation Premium system. Here is the link for the wiring diagram for the Non-Navigation Premium Audio System. (At the end of this post, after the pictures, is the wiring diagram for the Navigation head unit and factory amplifier. It is attached as a PDF file.)

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/2012-civic-audio-wiring-guide-pinouts-for-factory-radio.5916/

The 24-pin A-connector is the same for both the Navigation and Non-Navigation Premium head units. The E-connector is different, but the subwoofer wires are the same color. The Navigation E-connector is a 16-pin connector and the Non-Navigation E-connector is an 8-pin connector. The pre-amp level subwoofer output on the Navigation unit is E3 Pink and E11 Blue for Sub+ and Sub-. The pre-amp level subwoofer output on the Non-Navigation unit is E5 Pink and E7 Blue for Sub+ and Sub-. The external amplifiers are the same for Navigation and Non-Navigation Premium Audio units, so you can use the A and B harness connectors at the amplifier to splice into the factory wiring to feed an aftermarket amp. If you have a Non-SI sedan or LX coupe with the standard 160-watt audio system, then both Navi and Non-Navi systems have a powered head unit with high-level speaker outputs, and no subwoofer output. Those systems require a Line Out Converter for an aftermarket amp, or an amp that can accept high-level speaker inputs (most do, including the JL Audio XD700/5). The Premium Audio System has the benefit of having pre-amp level outputs and the subwoofer output, making an upgrade very easy.

The shop loved having the wiring diagram because it was dead-on accurate. Thanks to this board for posting the wiring diagram for the external amplifier, it was a big help! If anyone is in the Southern California area, then Santa Clarita Autosound is the place to go. These guys did an amazing job with the installation. I am very happy with the work they did, and they are highly recommended (even on Yelp). Now the "Premium Audio System" tagline on the head unit actually means something.

Factory speakers, factory amp, and factory subwoofer removed from the Civic.

View attachment 32928

The speakers were awful. At least the front speakers had much larger magnets. Explained why they were so much louder than the rears.

View attachment 32929

The JL amp installed under the passenger seat.

View attachment 32930

Front passenger tweeter installed in the factory A-pillar.

View attachment 32931

The driver side tweeter installed in the factory A-pillar.

View attachment 32932

Close up of the tweeter installed in the factory A-pillar.

View attachment 32933

Custom subwoofer box built into the side of the trunk. 10" JL Audio W3 subwoofer.

View attachment 32934

The custom box was built to specifications for the JL Audio subwoofer, and I still have all of the trunk space for cargo.

View attachment 32935

Custom amp wiring under the hood. The shop wrapped the wire in plastic tubing for protection, and to retain the factory look.

View attachment 32936
Click to expand...


I know I'm late to this but how much did that set up cost? Before install
 
Question, what does connector C on both the 2013 and 2014-2015 radios connect to?
 
Hillstones said:
Here is information to help anyone who is thinking about upgrading the "Premium Audio System" Navigation (and Non-Navigation) stereo in their Civic EX & EX-L Coupe and Si Sedan/Coupe. The "Premium Audio System" featured the external 360-watt amplifier with 7 speaker system, including a subwoofer. The premium audio system is pretty awful. The subwoofer and amplifier are useless. The amplifier is flawed because it has the frequency crossovers built-in for the front tweeters, rear speakers, and subwoofer. If you replace the speakers and keep the factory amplifier, you still get poor sound because of the internal crossovers in the amplifier. The solution is to remove the factory amplifier, speakers, and the subwoofer. The best part of the premium system is the head unit, because it is unpowered with pre-amp level outputs for the front, rear, and subwoofer. Most posts I read about stereo upgrades recommended a line out converter, even on the premium audio system, but an LOC is not necessary with the premium audio system. Since the head unit is unpowered, you do not need a line out converter. All you need to do is splice the factory speaker output wiring and convert them to RCA plugs to feed directly into an aftermarket amplifier. You can do this for the front, rear, and subwoofer outputs from the Premium Audio System head unit (Navigation and Non-Navigation). You do need an amplifier that is compatible with differential balanced outputs. JL Audio and Infinity make amps that accept differential balanced inputs.

This type of stereo upgrade is even easier by utilizing the 24-pin connector at the factory amplifier because it has the pre-amp level speaker outputs, subwoofer pre-amp level output, and amplifier remote turn-on lead from the Premium Audio head unit all in one harness. This is the harness you can use to splice the speaker and subwoofer wires to RCA plugs to feed directly into an aftermarket amp, including the remote turn-on lead. You can also use the 18-pin connector at the factory amplifier to feed those wires to the aftermarket amplifier speaker outputs. Then use the factory wiring to connect new speakers in the factory locations, and run a new wire to the aftermarket subwoofer installed in the trunk.

This was the type of upgrade I had done in my Civic EX-L Coupe with Premium Audio Navi. I wanted to keep the Navigation head unit because it offered all the features I needed and I wanted to retain the factory look and retain the audio information on the i-MID screen. I had installed stereos before when I was in college, but I did not have the experience to build a subwoofer box. I also wanted to have a professional shop do the installation, one that was familiar with Civics, knew how to do custom work, and a clean installation.

The JL Audio XD700/5 amplifier is perfect for the Civic. It is a 5 channel amp that accepts differential balanced inputs, and fits nicely under the passenger seat. It also has a subwoofer input. It offers plenty of power at 75w RMS for the front and rear, and 300w RMS for the subwoofer. The shop removed the factory amp and converted the wiring to RCA plugs and fed the pre-amp level speaker and subwoofer outputs directly into the amp. I can use the factory subwoofer level adjustment to control the level of the aftermarket subwoofer. The front and rear speakers are the Focal Integration series. The front speakers are 6 1/2 inch components and the rear speakers are 6 1/2 two-ways. The factory subwoofer was removed from the rear deck. A custom subwoofer box was built into the side of the trunk for a 10" JL Audio W3 subwoofer. I did not want to lose trunk space. The rear deck and entire trunk was lined with dynamat. Additional dynamat was used around all the speaker mounting openings. The shop did an amazing job with the tweeter installation in the front pillars, and the custom subwoofer enclosure in the trunk. The door and rear deck speakers are under the factory grilles since they are entire panels. The sound is incredible and everything works as intended. The subwoofer really rocks with clean, solid bass throughout the vehicle. Not boomy at all, which was what I was looking for. I listen to rock, classic rock, alternative, 80s alternative/new wave, jazz, new age, and a few rap hits here and there.

The same upgrade can be done with the Non-Navigation Premium system. Here is the link for the wiring diagram for the Non-Navigation Premium Audio System. (At the end of this post, after the pictures, is the wiring diagram for the Navigation head unit and factory amplifier. It is attached as a PDF file.)

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/2012-civic-audio-wiring-guide-pinouts-for-factory-radio.5916/

The 24-pin A-connector is the same for both the Navigation and Non-Navigation Premium head units. The E-connector is different, but the subwoofer wires are the same color. The Navigation E-connector is a 16-pin connector and the Non-Navigation E-connector is an 8-pin connector. The pre-amp level subwoofer output on the Navigation unit is E3 Pink and E11 Blue for Sub+ and Sub-. The pre-amp level subwoofer output on the Non-Navigation unit is E5 Pink and E7 Blue for Sub+ and Sub-. The external amplifiers are the same for Navigation and Non-Navigation Premium Audio units, so you can use the A and B harness connectors at the amplifier to splice into the factory wiring to feed an aftermarket amp. If you have a Non-SI sedan or LX coupe with the standard 160-watt audio system, then both Navi and Non-Navi systems have a powered head unit with high-level speaker outputs, and no subwoofer output. Those systems require a Line Out Converter for an aftermarket amp, or an amp that can accept high-level speaker inputs (most do, including the JL Audio XD700/5). The Premium Audio System has the benefit of having pre-amp level outputs and the subwoofer output, making an upgrade very easy.

The shop loved having the wiring diagram because it was dead-on accurate. Thanks to this board for posting the wiring diagram for the external amplifier, it was a big help! If anyone is in the Southern California area, then Santa Clarita Autosound is the place to go. These guys did an amazing job with the installation. I am very happy with the work they did, and they are highly recommended (even on Yelp). Now the "Premium Audio System" tagline on the head unit actually means something.

Factory speakers, factory amp, and factory subwoofer removed from the Civic.

View attachment 32928

The speakers were awful. At least the front speakers had much larger magnets. Explained why they were so much louder than the rears.

View attachment 32929

The JL amp installed under the passenger seat.

View attachment 32930

Front passenger tweeter installed in the factory A-pillar.

View attachment 32931

The driver side tweeter installed in the factory A-pillar.

View attachment 32932

Close up of the tweeter installed in the factory A-pillar.

View attachment 32933

Custom subwoofer box built into the side of the trunk. 10" JL Audio W3 subwoofer.

View attachment 32934

The custom box was built to specifications for the JL Audio subwoofer, and I still have all of the trunk space for cargo.

View attachment 32935

Custom amp wiring under the hood. The shop wrapped the wire in plastic tubing for protection, and to retain the factory look.

View attachment 32936
Click to expand...
What size are the tweeters/ a pillars?
 
I just wanted to pop in and say thanks for all the info in this thread. Just installed a sub and bypassed the stock amp on it. Couldn't have done it without this thread. Much appreciated.
 
Victorusmc said:
I need help guys! I have read all 16 pages of this thread, I have a 2014 civic SI with premium audio w/o navigation, I have a Pioneer GM D-9605 Amplifier that I want to put in my car,
but it does not accept balanced differential inputs, I want to keep my OEM radio, I called a local shop and told them what I had and they said that I need a Line Output Converter, but I
cant seem to find one that accepts balanced differential inputs and outputs a flat signal for the amplifier, every time I look into this I end up at the JL Audio Fix 86. I would really like there
to be a cheaper option for me to go from balance differential output from my radio to unbalanced signal. I have looked into JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate, AudioControl, PAC, Axxess integrate, Maestro Idata link
I just need somebody to please tell me, what specific model of Line Output Converter will work for my setup. Thank you in advanced!!
Click to expand...
Not to necro this thread for the millionth time, but I read through all 17 pages of this thread and it seems no one has covered this specific situation; I already have a sub and mono amp setup (in my 2014 Si non-Navi) that I wired in with an LOC to take the signal from the factory sub...but now today my passenger door speaker blew and I want to upgrade the rest of the system since the rest probably isn't far behind. How can I add my amp that does NOT have this 'balanced differential signal' support?
 
If you’re pulling the Honda amp out you need an amp that supports balanced differential signals.
 
So there's no way around it? Not with LOCs or anything, I HAVE to use one with the balanced differential signals no matter what?
 
One more thing...I'm just replacing the speaker for now until I can do the whole job. The speaker set I have is a pair of 6.5" components that come with crossovers and tweeters. Since the stock amp has individual signal for the door speaker and the tweeter, how would I wire the crossover? If I remove the factory tweeter, would I lose those signals that come through it? Should I just replace the speaker and not worry about the crossover/tweeter until I do the full amp/all new speaker setup?
 

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what exactly is your goal? You’re keeping the stock radio... but want to run an aftermarket amp to power new speakers all around? You need a differential balanced amp. If you’re just trying to run a sub, you can tap the current speakers to run a sub off an aftermarket amp that doesn’t have differential balance.
 
Hi there, I know this thread is a little old but I had a few questions. I've installed an aftermarket headunit and tomorrow will be picking up a new amp to replace the factory Pioneer amp. I had a few questions in regards to how to wire the amp up. Would I still need to have RCAs running from the amp to the headunit? I'm using the PAC RP4-HD11 and it connects to the 24 pin connector and has RCAs going into the new headunit. Would it be possible to just have speaker wires going from the new amp to where the 24 pin connects to the factory amp? I haven't installed a speaker level amp before so any advice would be awesome!
 
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