2015 si sedan

[emoji445]Working on the night shift baby[emoji445]

1830-0630 shifts until further notice, prolly only lasting this week tops until some things get worked out. I need the overtime, so i aint complaining. Although switching over to night shift is gonna be tough... here we go!

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all you do is torque the studs a few times with anti seize. I noticed the rims seem to get a bit stuck with a little anti seize doesn't happen. rotors can get rusty when the car just sits
 
sunofwolf said:
all you do is torque the studs a few times with anti seize. I noticed the rims seem to get a bit stuck with a little anti seize doesn't happen. rotors can get rusty when the car just sits
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Again. As a licensed tech and with the advice of other license techs and teachers I would advice against any lubricant on wheel studs.

Aaaaanny ways. Mounting these up tomorrow.
20200114-135200.jpg
 
Was using a spark plug socket to switch out my front camber volts because I have very little tools at home. It cracked in half.
20200119-135002.jpg


Anyone know if authentic red h emblems fit better than fake ones? Seems like the sides don't touch the grill at all and it bugs me.
 
Ouch man.

wish I could help with the badge but I’ve never rebadged a car honestly.
 
JAMES JANZEN said:
Again. As a licensed tech and with the advice of other license techs and teachers I would advice against any lubricant on wheel studs.

Aaaaanny ways. Mounting these up tomorrow.
20200114-135200.jpg
Click to expand...
On my srt-4 I use racing 7015 alloy wheel lugs-on these if you don't use anti seize, the lug nuts will weld to the steel bolts. any alloy parts against steel will weld also without anti seize.
 
sunofwolf said:
On my srt-4 I use racing 7015 alloy wheel lugs-on these if you don't use anti seize, the lug nuts will weld to the steel bolts. any alloy parts against steel will weld also without anti seize.
Click to expand...

So a couple of things,

Did some research. Aluminum Alloy 7015 (7000-series is alloyed with Zinc) is a cocktail of a bunch of Transition Metals -- namely Iron, Manganese, Magnesium, Copper, Zinc, Titanium, and Vanadium* ( *usually seen in tandem with Titanium, as it is used in Titanium alloys). These are mixed together to strengthen the existing aluminum. Many mixture designations of Aluminum are rated as stronger than or comparable to the strength of Steel (eg. AA 7075). This stuff is fairly heat resistant-- and pretty strong. For it to 'weld' to your Wheel Studs, you'd have to generate a ton of sustained braking heat. I can't be 100% sure, but if you meant 'weld' more colloquially, then the simpler answer is that lug nuts get stuck due to corrosion. I unearthed a write-up on a heat-based experiment for AA7015 and AA6061 for your own perusal. The control designations lose ultimate strength as heat is applied, becoming about half as strong at 300 degrees Celsius, or 572 degrees Fahrenhiet. Draw your own conclusions.

https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/148660789.pdf

For the second half, @JAMES JANZEN is right. I've seen a lot of people use anti-seize to prevent rust on their wheel studs, thereby preventing a... well, seized lug. Generally speaking, if you have good condition wheel studs--and rotate your tires regularly, you shouldn't have to add lubricants (Just clean the studs off when you rotate). It's NOT recommended to use anti seize because it's easy to destroy both the lug and wheel-stud threads by over-torquing (don't anti-seize and use an impact, good gravy). Dry torque ratings are not the same as 'wet' torque ratings!

Here's a handy chart for my first text dump.
Capture.PNG
 
I think because of the missing emblem leaving a "gap" for the adhesive it may not sit perfectly flush on the edges. But i just held mine down for a minute or so when i had installed mine and it seemed ok. I would not advise heating it and trying to bend it to shape though.

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I use my hand torque wrench on my lug nuts for years using anti-seizes, so my torqueing is perfect without any need for a worthless chart. Weld to the lug bolts. I should have said corrosion-actually does heat up the lug nuts quite hot, can cause them to actually break in half if your lucky, if not they are extremely hard remove without causing damage. I change my tires quite often. This is another example of California brain farts or people who think they know everything like I do. this is a bit dangerous using anti seize on wheel nuts. I like danger and donot like anything that is safe. For idiots who can't figure out how to put air in tire's-notice tnps trying to cure dum people. I noticed a new ad for a car that slam on the brakes, so you won't run over something like fog. I do agree that steel lug nuts don't need anti-seize. Now lets make sure you can't go any where-Hill assist. Don't spill coffee on your start button -it may cost you $1400.:coffee:
 
Honda-Fan said:
So a couple of things,

Did some research. Aluminum Alloy 7015 (7000-series is alloyed with Zinc) is a cocktail of a bunch of Transition Metals -- namely Iron, Manganese, Magnesium, Copper, Zinc, Titanium, and Vanadium* ( *usually seen in tandem with Titanium, as it is used in Titanium alloys). These are mixed together to strengthen the existing aluminum. Many mixture designations of Aluminum are rated as stronger than or comparable to the strength of Steel (eg. AA 7075). This stuff is fairly heat resistant-- and pretty strong. For it to 'weld' to your Wheel Studs, you'd have to generate a ton of sustained braking heat. I can't be 100% sure, but if you meant 'weld' more colloquially, then the simpler answer is that lug nuts get stuck due to corrosion. I unearthed a write-up on a heat-based experiment for AA7015 and AA6061 for your own perusal. The control designations lose ultimate strength as heat is applied, becoming about half as strong at 300 degrees Celsius, or 572 degrees Fahrenhiet. Draw your own conclusions.

https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/148660789.pdf

For the second half, @JAMES JANZEN is right. I've seen a lot of people use anti-seize to prevent rust on their wheel studs, thereby preventing a... well, seized lug. Generally speaking, if you have good condition wheel studs--and rotate your tires regularly, you shouldn't have to add lubricants (Just clean the studs off when you rotate). It's NOT recommended to use anti seize because it's easy to destroy both the lug and wheel-stud threads by over-torquing (don't anti-seize and use an impact, good gravy). Dry torque ratings are not the same as 'wet' torque ratings!

Here's a handy chart for my first text dump.
View attachment 60164
Click to expand...

On the back of the anti seize from permatex it says DO NOT use on wheel studs. And you are correct a little PMCS on a vehicle will go a long way but I mean we are talking about a guy who allowed his throttle cable on his car to run away from him with a manual gearbox.
 
yes everything is my fault, such as a hill assist freezing the car on a tiny hill is my fault too:bananapoke:
 
webby said:
wow what brand is the socket?
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no idea, it was given to me by someone, all my home sockets are crap. i need to get some better tools. all my good stuff is at work.

bauer311 said:
I think because of the missing emblem leaving a "gap" for the adhesive it may not sit perfectly flush on the edges. But i just held mine down for a minute or so when i had installed mine and it seemed ok. I would not advise heating it and trying to bend it to shape though.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
good to know, i was going to heat it . lol
 
quite the opposite, I don't like people to tell me what to do. Most of safety stuff is a lie. I should be the one who chose's to be safe not some *** hole trying to give me a ticket.:flame:
 
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