Civic Manual Trans issues?

Who has Manual trans issues, who doesn't?

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It'll be interesting to see if other oil prices will come down with the fuel oil........ I regress........ Back to changing tranny oils, and other liquids, like said earlier, it's the cheapest preventative maintenance we have, old school was usually 2,500 miles on engine oil, and 10k on other oils, and two years on brake/clutch fluids.

Being an old school member, I have come to learn you can teach old dogs new tricks...... As such, I change my engine oil(w/filter) every 5k, and other oils every 10k and brake fluids every year......... I'm a believer that the engine oil can go longer(just from watching the color of the oil from years past till now........ But with what oil has to run though, like gears, it's another story, early changes are part of my routine.
 
Great information Monk. With that said. Do you prefer synthetic blends? Fully synthetic? or conventional oil?
 
Great information Monk. With that said. Do you prefer synthetic blends? Fully synthetic? or conventional oil?

Good question...... Not that I think synthetics aren't an improvement, in a lot of cases & applications, but in my case, since I change on the short side, I don't see the syn' as needed. There are some things that need syn', like gears for a manual trans' or differentials.... but not in my opinion the engine(except my mc that uses the same oil to work in my engine and gears, puts reg' oil though a beating)....
Disclaimer: I think there's a rule to follow, Not all syns' are a good thing everywhere, and to take what the manufacture says as rule, until others have proven otherwise, before I do it to mine.
 
The oil Honda originally recommended/sold was actually a synthetic blended oil. Now they have a full synthetic they offer.
 
Random update from what my trans has been going through. At 14200 miles now and the faint diff whine I heard now sings noticeably everywhere from 20-60 mph, any lower or higher I can't pick up the pitch of the noise over ground and wind noise. I also hear what I believe are my clutch springs chattering when bliping the throttle to revmatch downshift 40% of the time(even though I believe manufactures say to not do this but it's easier on the trans...I believe). Needless to say I will be taking it in for the first time to get looked at shortly but I wanted an opinion or two on if I should re install my CDV. Took it out as clutch feel is garbage but even though I think they wont notice, I fear if they do then they'll say that's causing to much shock to the trans or try to pin that on it. While this can happen I don't feel I should have a diff whine that is worse than a 150k mile car. Do you guys think they'll try to stink out over a missing CDV? I'm sure if they see wrench marks too they'll say something but I saved the CDV to reinstall for cases like this but i never saw nor have the "black filter" part. Due to using compressed air to free the CDV in the bore I believe I shot it somewhere. My HR cable bushings will be swapped back to stock for this en-devour though. Been meaning to get a video to get opinions and see if I'm not alone here. Also been 5k on my new trans fluid and shifts feel back to grity feeling half the time, curious if the diff's eating itself due to improper preload on the ring and pinion causing foreign matter to build up quickly getting everywhere. Anyways I'll be keeping this updated the more I find out but have been pretty lazy lately to make an appointment.
 
I'll let others chime in, but I'm curious if you used honda MTF or what you used?
 
Yea went to Honda and will only ever use Honda MTF, I've read the stories of redline fluid and other oil analysis. That is something I tried to do but the oil sample bottle was never shipped when I asked for one.
 
Yea went to Honda and will only ever use Honda MTF, I've read the stories of redline fluid and other oil analysis. That is something I tried to do but the oil sample bottle was never shipped when I asked for one.

Hell contact them again, every time I've sent a sample in I've received 2 containers in return. I have 6 containers waiting to be used to send off
 
Anyone experience clunking type noises when engaging/disengaging the clutch pedal under normal driving conditions(normal shifting around 2500-3000rpms)? Sometimes I don't hear the clunk noise but I hear more often than not. Sometimes I can feel the car shutter but not super noticeable.

I also get locked out of reverse quite often when sitting completely still. I have to put it back in neutral and release the clutch pedal and then try again.
 
The lockout happens to me as well, 1st and reverse.
 
Anyone experience clunking type noises when engaging/disengaging the clutch pedal under normal driving conditions(normal shifting around 2500-3000rpms)? Sometimes I don't hear the clunk noise but I hear more often than not. Sometimes I can feel the car shutter but not super noticeable.

I also get locked out of reverse quite often when sitting completely still. I have to put it back in neutral and release the clutch pedal and then try again.

The reverse thing I feel is pretty normal. I have 3 Hondas with manual transmissions and all 3 of them do this even the one with the brand new transmission. I think it just has something to do with how the reverse gear engages since its much different than the other gears. I don't know about first though I have never had that happen to me.
 
REverse is probably straight cut so engage and is hit or miss and the "cackling whine" is caused by the straight cut gears meshing. It's normal.

The clunk now I have tried to see if someone else had heard it, I mentioned it and noticed it since the car was practically new/2nd day of ownership. It does seem to go away more or I just don't notice as I've gotten used to it. Glad I'm not alone here and I also did here the same faint clunk in a used 2013 Si on our lot with 80k miles (not as bad cause the CDV was still in that car) so it seems to be a characteristic.
 
REverse is probably straight cut so engage and is hit or miss and the "cackling whine" is caused by the straight cut gears meshing. It's normal.

Reverse is for sure straight cut in older civic transmissions, I doubt they've changed it but we could always check the parts diagram for verification.
 
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Item 6 is the reverse idler gear and it is shown as straight cut, and so is the corresponding area of the input shaft.
 
Probably no syncro as well which wont help with smooth engagement.
 
No synchro just a lever that Engages it when you attempt to put the car in reverse. Also explains why you can't engage reverse if the car is moving toward at all. It will just grind.
 
push in the clutch & hold it in....put into 4th, then put into reverse without releasing the clutch. That usually solves it 99.9% of the time.
 
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