First Door Dent....

aznboi606

aznboi606

Well-Known Member
358
280
Atlanta, GA
Vehicle Model
Honda Civic Si
Body Style
Coupe
So, i got my first door dent, even when i park super far and always try to get close as the curve as possible to stay far from the other side. But some ******* had to park next to me and left their mark. The door ding is about an inch small and it scraped a little paint. What do you guys recommend to get this repair and pricing?
 
Can you post a picture? It depends on how deep. Minor ones where you can see the undercoat but not very wide I managed to fix with Nu Doctor but with a ton of applications. Next time i will look for another similar product though since it really was like 10+ applications to make it go away.
 
Last edited:
Nu Doctor only remove scratches, were you able to fix the door ding? Ill try to post some pics soon, right now its dark outside so it would be hard to see.
 
aznboi606 said:
Nu Doctor only remove scratches, were you able to fix the door ding? Ill try to post some pics soon, right now its dark outside so it would be hard to see.
Click to expand...
My dings had no shape changes, only paint gone away all the way to the undercoating. We have real experts on the forum that can tell a lot more from a pic, I am far from an expert.
 
Post a picture of it up close from an angle, and then the overall panel shot, I will give you an idea what it should cost. ( varies by market and shop )
 
Do those guard strips the dealer sells help with stuff like that? Seems to me like they're almost useless.
 
Thanks, i appreciate it guys. Hate seeing that little ding on a new car. I will get a pic posted up soon when i get sunlight.
 
hey guys, I was able to take the pics. The scratch is under the flash, sorry i forgot to disable the flash. Anyways, the scratch is about a penny size and the dent is so noticeable on this color, even standing from a far distance.
IMG_20130201_093142_zps0beaae48.jpg

IMG_20130201_095223_zpsb1424559.jpg
 
Last edited:
Scotty 1981 said:
Do those guard strips the dealer sells help with stuff like that? Seems to me like they're almost useless.
Click to expand...
They aren't a guarantee, but protect from the average front door....... But if a back door opens on it it will probably hit above the strip(due to the curve in mast).......
I have them on mine but don't rely on them, I still park where it's least likely to be hit.
Although the OP did exactly what I do, just makes me wonder about ppl..........
 
Michael Hurd said:
Post a picture of it up close from an angle, and then the overall panel shot, I will give you an idea what it should cost. ( varies by market and shop )
Click to expand...
Michael Hurd said:
Post a picture of it up close from an angle, and then the overall panel shot, I will give you an idea what it should cost. ( varies by market and shop )
Click to expand...
Hey, I was able to upload the pics. You think you can look at it when you get the chance. The dent's width is about the end of the scratch to the other scratch.
 
Last edited:
That dent is fairly shallow from the look of it with very little stretched metal, and it would be a great candidate for a paintless dent repair, however if it's scratched through to the primer coat, then you will need to repair the paint.

A method of repairing it from the outside that doesn't void your factory warranty on the panel ( rust through warranty ) is using a handheld spot welder that adheres small studs to pull out the dent. A small amount of paint is removed to bare in the dent area in order to facilitate the welding process. The studs are welded on with a very short duration trigger pull, then the stud can be pulled on with a t-handle or slide hammer.The studs are then twisted off with a pair of pliers and any remaining raised metal is sanded with P80 grit, P180 before priming. A very light skim of filer or 2 part glazing putty may be needed.

Glasurit's small damage repair system will also allow you to blend the clearcoat into the rest of the panel on vertical surfaces. ( full lifetime warranty ) This is made possibly by using a very 'hot' solvent / resinated binder combination.

UV cure primer surfacers, and being able to mix small quantities of basecoat and clearcoat with a digital scale mean this repair should not cost any more than $ 150-175 when done at a reputable shop.

If you use a shop that has been trained on the Glasurit small damage repair system, you don't need to clearcoat the entire outer door skin. The Uni-spotter welder doesn't damage the coating on the rear of the panel, or create holes, and will not affect your corrosion warranty on the panel.

You won't find a small shop offering this service, as the UV curing lamps are relatively expensive, mid-size shops, dealerships, and large shops will be the ones to look for. Check your local yellow pages, and reviews on Google before talking to them in person. Do a bit of legwork before simply choosing a shop at random. In the event that you have a few shops, get a written quote before approaching the next one.

In the random photo of the stud welder I attached, most of them have been welded on too long, only the top one IMO is proper. He will have a heck of a time getting them off, may have to cut them flush with a pair of side cutters and then grind the head down. Notice the heat affected area on the top side of the panel is no more than 3/16" diameter at best. The heat won't affect any galvanizing or undercoat on the backside of the panel.

unispotter.jpg
 
Michael Hurd said:
That dent is fairly shallow from the look of it with very little stretched metal, and it would be a great candidate for a paintless dent repair, however if it's scratched through to the primer coat, then you will need to repair the paint.

A method of repairing it from the outside that doesn't void your factory warranty on the panel ( rust through warranty ) is using a handheld spot welder that adheres small studs to pull out the dent. A small amount of paint is removed to bare in the dent area in order to facilitate the welding process. The studs are welded on with a very short duration trigger pull, then the stud can be pulled on with a t-handle or slide hammer.The studs are then twisted off with a pair of pliers and any remaining raised metal is sanded with P80 grit, P180 before priming. A very light skim of filer or 2 part glazing putty may be needed.

Glasurit's small damage repair system will also allow you to blend the clearcoat into the rest of the panel on vertical surfaces. ( full lifetime warranty ) This is made possibly by using a very 'hot' solvent / resinated binder combination.

UV cure primer surfacers, and being able to mix small quantities of basecoat and clearcoat with a digital scale mean this repair should not cost any more than $ 150-175 when done at a reputable shop.

If you use a shop that has been trained on the Glasurit small damage repair system, you don't need to clearcoat the entire outer door skin. The Uni-spotter welder doesn't damage the coating on the rear of the panel, or create holes, and will not affect your corrosion warranty on the panel.

You won't find a small shop offering this service, as the UV curing lamps are relatively expensive, mid-size shops, dealerships, and large shops will be the ones to look for. Check your local yellow pages, and reviews on Google before talking to them in person. Do a bit of legwork before simply choosing a shop at random. In the event that you have a few shops, get a written quote before approaching the next one.

In the random photo of the stud welder I attached, most of them have been welded on too long, only the top one IMO is proper. He will have a heck of a time getting them off, may have to cut them flush with a pair of side cutters and then grind the head down. Notice the heat affected area on the top side of the panel is no more than 3/16" diameter at best. The heat won't affect any galvanizing or undercoat on the backside of the panel.

View attachment 9841
Click to expand...

Thanks!! I appreciate the time you put out to help. How much do you think i am looking at if i get a PDR to look at it?
 
I'm so paranoid about this happening,the parking lot where I work is massive but I park at the end just so I'm only risking one side getting banged up instead of both of them.I look closely at the side of my car every morning just out of habit.
 
Corey, I tend to park as far away as practical in big parking lots, I can walk a few minutes. I also want to have at least one side protected by a curb, a light post, etc. If it's a restaurant where I can see my car from the window, I will park there instead.
 
corey99699 said:
I'm so paranoid about this happening,the parking lot where I work is massive but I park at the end just so I'm only risking one side getting banged up instead of both of them.I look closely at the side of my car every morning just out of habit.
Click to expand...
Good luck with that, I park the same way and have been paranoid ever since my 1st car('65), it helps, but no sure cure...... maybe hang a sign off your mirror saying "WET PAINT"..........
 
I too try to park my car away from other cars at a big parking lot. Sometimes I don't have much choice. My biggest gripe would be the size of the parking spaces. Some lots are better than others but when they make the spaces almost to the point you barely get your door open that almost touches the other car. I was like who came up with this? Obviously just like the airlines they try to cram everything into little spaces much as possible for the most buck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top