That dent is fairly shallow from the look of it with very little stretched metal, and it would be a great candidate for a paintless dent repair, however if it's scratched through to the primer coat, then you will need to repair the paint.
A method of repairing it from the outside that doesn't void your factory warranty on the panel ( rust through warranty ) is using a handheld spot welder that adheres small studs to pull out the dent. A small amount of paint is removed to bare in the dent area in order to facilitate the welding process. The studs are welded on with a very short duration trigger pull, then the stud can be pulled on with a t-handle or slide hammer.The studs are then twisted off with a pair of pliers and any remaining raised metal is sanded with P80 grit, P180 before priming. A very light skim of filer or 2 part glazing putty may be needed.
Glasurit's small damage repair system will also allow you to blend the clearcoat into the rest of the panel on vertical surfaces. ( full lifetime warranty ) This is made possibly by using a very 'hot' solvent / resinated binder combination.
UV cure primer surfacers, and being able to mix small quantities of basecoat and clearcoat with a digital scale mean this repair should not cost any more than $ 150-175 when done at a reputable shop.
If you use a shop that has been trained on the Glasurit small damage repair system, you don't need to clearcoat the entire outer door skin. The Uni-spotter welder doesn't damage the coating on the rear of the panel, or create holes, and will not affect your corrosion warranty on the panel.
You won't find a small shop offering this service, as the UV curing lamps are relatively expensive, mid-size shops, dealerships, and large shops will be the ones to look for. Check your local yellow pages, and reviews on Google before talking to them in person. Do a bit of legwork before simply choosing a shop at random. In the event that you have a few shops, get a written quote before approaching the next one.
In the random photo of the stud welder I attached, most of them have been welded on too long, only the top one IMO is proper. He will have a heck of a time getting them off, may have to cut them flush with a pair of side cutters and then grind the head down. Notice the heat affected area on the top side of the panel is no more than 3/16" diameter at best. The heat won't affect any galvanizing or undercoat on the backside of the panel.
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