H&R 1.5" drop for 2012 civic lowering springs

Pauly99to17 said:
Really like them. I don't think you can go wrong either way.
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Thanks for the input bud. I've been leaning towards H&R because it's a tad bit lower at the front wheels I really like that look. Eibach does have a lot of good reviews too tho. Can't go wrong either way is a true statement.
 
Vahag Chakerian said:
i understand that toe would need to be 0 for tire saving, but how about camber, whats the best and safe number to have?
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Try to get it as close as you can to OEM specs. Also, for H&R springs, most people are not running camber arms. From what I gathered from my research, its not really needed.
 
Camber can greatly effect how the car handles so you have to decide weather you drive aggressively enough to warrant a performance alignment or if the stock numbers are best.

There is no "safest" number although the stock settings will be the most familiar feeling. You can always get the arms if you decide you have too much neg camber in the rear or if you need them to gain camber to fit your wheels.

Personally, I think the factory settings are not that great. Run less negative camber and more front for a better handling car and to help eliminate some of the understeer that comes built in from Honda. I'm running -0.8 R and -1.2 F with as close to 0 toe as possible.
 
Nix said:
Camber can greatly effect how the car handles so you have to decide weather you drive aggressively enough to warrant a performance alignment or if the stock numbers are best.

There is no "safest" number although the stock settings will be the most familiar feeling. You can always get the arms if you decide you have too much neg camber in the rear or if you need them to gain camber to fit your wheels.

Personally, I think the factory settings are not that great. Run less negative camber and more front for a better handling car and to help eliminate some of the understeer that comes built in from Honda. I'm running -0.8 R and -1.2 F with as close to 0 toe as possible.
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WOW! some good info here. Would my alignment guy know what camber specs will yield better handling?
 
Nix said:
Camber can greatly effect how the car handles so you have to decide weather you drive aggressively enough to warrant a performance alignment or if the stock numbers are best.

There is no "safest" number although the stock settings will be the most familiar feeling. You can always get the arms if you decide you have too much neg camber in the rear or if you need them to gain camber to fit your wheels.

Personally, I think the factory settings are not that great. Run less negative camber and more front for a better handling car and to help eliminate some of the understeer that comes built in from Honda. I'm running -0.8 R and -1.2 F with as close to 0 toe as possible.
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Is that enough to eat through tires ?
 
Your alignment guy most likely will not know what the "best" settings are and will probably recommend the stock numbers as a good balance for tire wear and handling. It is very very safe.

How fast you go through tires depends more on how you drive than anything else.

Factory settings are usually 0 camber front and -1.*something rear. You can certainly run those settings and be perfectly fine. Starting to adjust the settings to a performance orientation is something you need to base on your driving and your needs. Especially depending on auto-x or track sessions. Front and rear camber is not adjustable unless you buy camber bolts in the front or get coilovers with camber plates, and rear camber adjustments require arms.

There are two reasons to get rear camber arms.

1) The civic gains negative camber in the rear when it is lowered or the suspension is compressed. If you lower your car 1.5" or more you will probably end up with more than -1.5 degrees in the rear. That's where tire wear can become a factor. Using camber arms you can dial out the negative camber to save your tires or adjust it for maximum grip. More is better, to a point. -2 degrees is a very aggressive track/auto-x setting. Also the civic understeers heavily. To create more rotation and fight the understeer running more camber in the front is ideal.

2) People get rear arms to run ridiculous amounts of neg camber to put wheels on their car that don't fit. -5 degrees does not mean your car is going to handle better than the guy on stock settings.


More camber in front = better handling. To a point. I based my numbers on a mix of things and tried to shoot right down the middle of tire wear and handling. I drive a lot and my tires really did not wear very badly. I am on -1.2 F and -0.8 R. I know that the rear camber increases with cornering load so I'm hoping it goes over -1.0 regularly and is at a mild -0.8 when just driving around to save on wear.

From Redshift suspension:



Street "Mild Performance"

Front Camber: -1.0°

(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole.)

Front Toe: Factory setting

(0 total)

Rear Camber: -0.8° to -1.5°





Street "Aggressive"

Front Camber: -1.4°

(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole at max adjustment setting.)

Front Toe: 0 total

(0 toe is factory setting but also a good aggressive street spec. Or you can try a hair of toe out, but generally toe out will destroy tires fast as a daily driver.)

Rear Camber: -1.5°

(provides better rear grip for extreme handling. Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.)

Rear Toe: 0.04° per side (a positive number is toe in)

(on the more aggressive end of the available factory range.)



Race (Autocross or Track)

Front Camber: -2.0° or more

(2 Ingalls bolts per side needed at max adjustment setting provides a hair over -2.0°. Some super fast people are running over -3° with camber plates on coilovers. The ASR camber plates by themselves provide only up to -2.5° camber because more is not possible without notching the ~4" hole at the upper strut mounting position...and this is not a legal mod for most race classes. To get more than -2.5°, you must use a combination of camber plates and camber bolts.)

Front Toe: -0.16° to -0.32° toe per side (a negative number is toe out)

(This will make the car wander when going straight but will drastically improve cornering.... the range -0.16° to -0.32° equals 1/16-1/8" toe out for those doing toe settings manually. Best place to start is -0.16° if you are not sure. Toe out will chew up the inside edge of the front tires on a daily driver; so this is a race-only setting.)

Rear Camber: -2.0 or more

(more rear camber provides more consistent grip in back through the run/lap so you can attack the run all the way to the end without loosing the rear end. Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.)

Rear Toe: 0.04° toe per side (a positive number is toe in)

(or 0 if you can handle it.... but you definitely want to start with 0.04° toe in because 0 toe or toe out in back can creep up and bite you hard if you are not ready for it.)
 
Ordered my H & R sport springs today. Arriving at Les Schwab in a couple days. Excited.
 
Support your sponsors. I have plenty of H&R in stock :)

My price in many cases beats Tire Rack based on prior customer feedback!
 
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IMG_2032.JPG IMG_2031.JPG IMG_2043.JPG I have a 13 sedan with H&R and it rides perfect no probs what so ever and just like Corey99699 said the car is level, Im thinking about Rota svn wheels 18x8.5 48 offset
 
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H&Rs installed today. They said I needed the camber arms on the back. Here's a pic. Can someine tell me if I need them? Rear on bottom. uploadfromtaptalk1394858756308.jpg
 
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