Hello all!

Here's a quick pic of some of the suspension goodies slated for install this coming Monday :
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As for what's inside the box? H&R Sport Springs. I've also got my 22mm Progress rsb arriving tomorrow.
So looking forward to getting these goodies on!
 
Pauly99to17 said:
Damn. What percentage tint was on Raven? That's dark. Looks great. Legal?
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My tint was done back when I lived in Las Vegas, NV. It was 32 front/20 back, and balanced out nicely. When I moved to Illinois in 2010, I still sported that percentile without any issues. With the Si I was going to do the state legal of 35, but after dealing with that percentile for over a month I decided to go the 35/20 route.
 
13blacksedan said:
Still have the Judge?
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Unfortunately the Judge died off back in the 1981 due to a bad thermostat and a cracked block. Besides, we were about to get stationed in Western Europe and my father already had plans to sell it anyways.
 
squiggy said:
As far as sway bars go:

The front is absolutely unnecessary on this car and will cancel out what you are trying to do with the rear.

Get the Progress 24mm rear sway.
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I have the CTE rear sway bar and the sirimoto front strut tower bar. When I just had the rear sway bar the car felt unbalanced until I installed the front strut tower bar. To say it is unnecessary makes no sense to me because I felt a dramatic difference when paired with a rear sway bar upgrade.
 
rbruno727 said:
I have the CTE rear sway bar and the sirimoto front strut tower bar. When I just had the rear sway bar the car felt unbalanced until I installed the front strut tower bar. To say it is unnecessary makes no sense to me because I felt a dramatic difference when paired with a rear sway bar upgrade.
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I do believe he was talking about the front sway bar, not the strut tower brace (which would be the sirimoto you installed). A strut tower brace on this car would do a world of good by not only adding more rigidity to the front, but also make the struts do their job.
 
A front strut tower bar is debatable as to whether it is necessary (or useful) or not. Since the towers are so close to the firewall, there is already a ton of rigidity. I am no engineer though. However, @Nix is and likes to deter people from front strut tower bars.
 
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If anything, I'd say they're more for the "bling" affect for the peers (the more goodies under the hood...).
 
z00mer said:
If anything, I'd say they're more for the "bling" affect for the peers (the more goodies under the hood...).
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The bar I have is tucked under the cowl so not much bling, some of the other brands have unnecessary bends so they are exposed for looks. I am function over form, in it for the feel not the look.
 
Ya, these cars are notoriously stiff at the junction of the A-pillar and the firewall. The strut tower bar won't add much in that area as it is already one of the most heavily reinforced areas on the car. The struts are jammed right up against that junction. On older cars, and just generally differently designed cars, if the struts are stuck way out in the middle of the fender then a strut bar can make a huge difference. Usually I steer people away from the strut bar as that money can be spent elsewhere and make a bigger difference.

Tires are the number one thing to help with the way the car handles. But tires are boring! And expensive for good ones. Especially if you have stock tires that aren't dead yet. The rear sway is a great place to start followed by camber bolts for the front. If you haven't done camber bolts I would say spend the money on a set of those and an alignment instead of a strut tower bar. More neg camber in the front!

Not that the tower bar will "do nothing" but its so minimal due to the design you can get better performance from other parts first. On this chassis the strut bar is a bling part. If you've bought it, you like it, and maybe you just wanted something to do/wrench on the car then go for it. Also, how a car feels vs how a car performs are two totally separate things.
 
Nix said:
Ya, these cars are notoriously stiff at the junction of the A-pillar and the firewall. The strut tower bar won't add much in that area as it is already one of the most heavily reinforced areas on the car. The struts are jammed right up against that junction. On older cars, and just generally differently designed cars, if the struts are stuck way out in the middle of the fender then a strut bar can make a huge difference. Usually I steer people away from the strut bar as that money can be spent elsewhere and make a bigger difference.

Tires are the number one thing to help with the way the car handles. But tires are boring! And expensive for good ones. Especially if you have stock tires that aren't dead yet. The rear sway is a great place to start followed by camber bolts for the front. If you haven't done camber bolts I would say spend the money on a set of those and an alignment instead of a strut tower bar. More neg camber in the front!

Not that the tower bar will "do nothing" but its so minimal due to the design you can get better performance from other parts first. On this chassis the strut bar is a bling part. If you've bought it, you like it, and maybe you just wanted something to do/wrench on the car then go for it. Also, how a car feels vs how a car performs are two totally separate things.
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So the factory camber bolts are that bad? I guess it's a good thing I've got some new ones from SPC. :D
I figured with the design of the chassis and how the bay was designed, that a strut tower brace would have little to no effect in the handling department. If anything, I'm more interested in beefing up the subframe with bracing to prevent body flex in an apex.
As for wheels and tires, I've got Motegi MR119's (18x8... not too sure on the off set though... I think they're +35) and some Nitto Motivo's 225/45/18 (which may be pushing it size wise, which some fender rolling may be in order).
 
There are no camber bolts nor any way to adjust camber up front.
 
squiggy said:
There are no camber bolts nor any way to adjust camber up front.
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I meant I got new ones for the rear. Never hurts to be prepared just in case something breaks during my suspension upgrade next week... especially when dealing with any vehicle that's from the Midwest no matter how old.
 
I'm a little late on the welcoming but welcome to the 9thcivic forum! :)

As for your suspension question on whether go with Tru hart or Koni's, is that even a question? Koni isn't known for nothing ya know... :coffee:
 
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