Mike's boosted build

:confuzzled:
@webby I believe it has the UV protection in it. If not I'll hold off until i get some.

@sunofwolf it is ok the rev the motor to 7,800 safely as long as it is tuned. With basic bolt on such as exhaust manifold, intake manifold, intake system, exhaust you can make power up to 7,500 and even with a good tune you can pull out power in the top end. Look at vittuned forum he has a lot of dyno runs also Derrick Robinson shows tons of dyno runs of K24.
I don't know if 7800rpm is safe or not, seeing how I only have one K24engine set redline to 6800 that way I know it won't blow up. I want a million mile engine. The funny thing do you really ever know if its safely turned what happens if a fly gets in and lick's the ECU that might throw it off then bomb K24:woowoo:or it goes lean that's very bad for a alu block. You can get away with a bit of lean on a 63 mitsu engine even though that can blow too. A k24 engine is very expensive like $3700 I see.:think::iough:You never use a power sander on your headlights too much friction. Its only plastic. I guess you found out the hard way. Oh well back to drawing board. I do a thought experiment -Einstein.
 
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:confuzzled:
I don't know if 7800rpm is safe or not, seeing how I only have one K24engine set redline to 6800 that way I know it won't blow up. I want a million mile engine. The funny thing do you really ever know if its safely turned what happens if a fly gets in and lick's the ECU that might throw it off then bomb K24:woowoo:or it goes lean that's very bad for a alu block. You can get away with a bit of lean on a 63 mitsu engine even though that can blow too. A k24 engine is very expensive like $3700 I see.:think::iough:You never use a power sander on your headlights too much friction. Its only plastic. I guess you found out the hard way. Oh well back to drawing board. I do a thought experiment -Einstein.

You can get a complete long block K24Z3 with around 40-60k miles for $350 I have already been there done that. I have complete faith in my tuner from
https://www.prayoontoracing.com/

I didn't use a belt sander I used products provided by the company and used as the directions suggested. Normally I just buy new housing's but this time I thought I should give it a try worst case I would make a mistake and learn from it just like I did. What I did was when I was sanding near the bottom i was not holding the drill flush causing it to dig with the corner of the wheel.
 
when you get a used engine-that's what you get and don't know how good it is but at that price you could go though them and find a good one. I am just kidding about the 7800rpm, but I don't think I want to go over redline just don't see the need too>:brock:
 
Mine came with a 1 year 12,000 mile warranty and I do agree you never know what you are going to get when buying used motor's.

For the most part I don't drive my car hard but every now and then I enjoy going into boost or going to the track.
 
@webby do you know much about car audio? I bought new speakers and a rear sub. I got the JBL GX600C component speakers for the front and rear and I got the Kicker compR for the sub.

The problem I am having is the front dosen't sound to bad but the rear sounds like the volume is low. I checked the wires to assure they are correct to my best ability. The next thing I thought was maybe the factory amp can't support the speakers?
 
@webby do you know much about car audio? I bought new speakers and a rear sub. I got the JBL GX600C component speakers for the front and rear and I got the Kicker compR for the sub.

The problem I am having is the front dosen't sound to bad but the rear sounds like the volume is low. I checked the wires to assure they are correct to my best ability. The next thing I thought was maybe the factory amp can't support the speakers?

did you just swap out the old speakers and hooked up the new ones to the original wiring and whatnot? Is the sub the 8" compR....does it fit in the rear deck without interfering with the truck braces? Or how did you hook stuff up?
 
also, any idea what the oem subwoofer is rated for in ohms? I don't know what it is rated. The oem amp from honda is rated for 4 ohms. It looks like the front/rear speakers you got are 2.3 ohms instead of 4 ohms if I'm looking at the right speaker?
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-W8tweVrBIfu/p_109GX600C/JBL-GX600C.html

and the compR looks like it can come in 4 or 2 ohm if I'm looking at the right one....

I know some people had issues with running 2 ohm speakers on the stock amp from the 8th gen. I guess it could make the oem amp heat up too much....


@squiggy posted this info from the stock amp sticker (4ohms)
360 watts peak, 120 rms for the entire 7 speaker system...
 
did you just swap out the old speakers and hooked up the new ones to the original wiring and whatnot? Is the sub the 8" compR....does it fit in the rear deck without interfering with the truck braces? Or how did you hook stuff up?
I hooked up my speakers to the factory wiring. The rear sub was a tight fit I used the directions to wire the sub in a 4 ohm series. The front speakers alone are a peak of 270 watts and the rear sub is max 600 watts.
 
I don’t know if the others being 2.3 ohm would be enough to cause the volume difference or not. I just know some on the 8th gen said their stock amps could overheat. I’d shoot crutchfield an email or call and just see what they say?
 
I don’t know if the others being 2.3 ohm would be enough to cause the volume difference or not. I just know some on the 8th gen said their stock amps could overheat. I’d shoot crutchfield an email or call and just see what they say?
I sent them an email I should here something back within the next 48 hours.
 
@webby questions about FlashPro manager. I was enabling my Secondary O2 sensor and noticed it had the red light/dot next to it. Do you happen to know what the red ones mean? I know when you make changes it will turn yellow or red.

20190702_153920.jpg
 
Ah ok thanks!! I knew they had it on there website but for some reason I could not find it. I probably overlooked it 10x.
 
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